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Thread: Jukar muzzleloader

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Jukar muzzleloader

    Hello,

    I picked up a Jukar muzzleloader. Most likely a 45 cal, but I have not checked it. I know these are not the best rifles out there by any means.

    I am not sure if the trigger is missing a spring or if this is normal. The trigger just flops around until it is pulled back slightly then it is stiff. Pulling back further releases the hammer. I do not see that any parts are missing so I believe this is normal for a Jukar.
    Last edited by VintageRifle; 06-28-2010 at 11:39 PM. Reason: spelling error

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Pretty much the way it is. Like you said it isn't the best but should be ok. I have a couple. The early CVAs were made by the same company, I believe if I remember right Jukar Spain. They were made petty simple then but still functional. Your's if I guess right is a 45 Kentucky. They made allot of those. Kind of crude but mine still shoots well. Have fun.
    Aim small, miss small!

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Good morning
    Stick to the suggested loads.. I would steer clear of the NEW high energy Black Powder Sustitutes.. Especially if the barrel is labeled BLACK POWDER ONLY. There is a reason for that notice. Also remove the Breech and check the threads. You life depends on that threaded joint.
    I had one of the kit guns in .45 I bought in 1973 while stationed in Germany. It served me well for years... but I did not try to make a magnum out of it and ONLY fed it 2F.
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  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

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    YOu left out a letter JUNKAR!

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    Check the breech threads for your own safety, and you might check the condition of the drum threads for the benefit of those on your right. These were designed as roundball guns, not well suited for the pressures generated by conicals or maxis even when new (almost 40 years ago). Time, humidity, and black powder residue certainly don't strengthen these old guns, but if yours is in good shape, and used sensibly, it can still do its job.

    Trapshooter

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    Hehe, the reason I edited my original post was I kept calling them "Junkar".

    Will check those things out. Will try and post a picture as well.

    I passed on one of these that was never fired about a year ago. I can tell this one got put away wet at least once.

    Anyone know how I can get this out of the stock? I thought I had all the screws out but it wouldn't budge.
    Last edited by VintageRifle; 06-29-2010 at 06:27 PM.

  7. #7
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    Years ago a fellow fired a "junkar" and by the will of God, on one was to the right of him on the firing line. The drum went singing to the east at some hi velosity and would have hurt mightly if not killed whomever it hit.
    I've been wary of shooting with a fellow on my right since then.
    Flint shooters warn the guys to the right. This guy needed to clear the whole line.
    The drum hit an upright (2" steel tubing) and karrined off into the wilderness never to be seen by human eyes again.
    More than a few prayers was said right then...
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  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

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    You should have a couple stock pins that hold it in place also. Just knock them out with a punch. If you have wedge pins, knock them out. You should have removed the nose cap also that on the assumption that your's has one. Is your's a full stock kentucky?
    Aim small, miss small!

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Aim small, miss small!

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    i've got a jukar with a nasty bore, i'm think about installing a green moutain barrel and i would replace the powder drum and the breech plug. people say i'm crazy or it's a waste of time and money,but i had the rifle give to me. so i have nothin' in it.lol

  11. #11
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    Here is a photo

    Finally got around to taking a picture. Just in case anyone wanted to know, I paid $60 for it.


  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    Heck, I have one of those. CVA made it.
    When I got it, it had a ball stuck in the bore. A few moments pulling it, and it was ready.
    The bore was full of rust. I fired some R.E.A.Ls with lapping compound for lube.
    Got pretty slick, actually, now a good shooter. My wife uses it.
    Ours is in .45cal. She learned on it. I later got her a .54, and she is kinda timid on it. I tell her the charges are almost identical but the large bore has her.
    She likes the CVA. Feels comfortable to fire of her. The balance is good for her also.
    Lube the trigger, and it will work like it should.
    Dixie has parts than can convert it, like triggers, locks, but, why?
    If you clean out the drum, and file off a thousandth off the nipple, misfires will go away. Untill I did that, it would misfire a lot. I replaced the drum screw with a stainless one.
    Now, pretty reliable.

  13. #13
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    Well, it shoots a nice group at 25 yards. Starts to go all over the place after 10 shots. I didn't take my cleaning supplies as I didn't plan on shooting it much so it was a short shooting session.

    Got a question about the ramrod size. I need a new one (another reason the shooting session was cut short).

    The original rod was about an inch too short. Appears to never have been intended to clean the rifle at all.

    Best I can come up with is a 3/8 dowel, but that is too large. The next size down it much too small. The thimbles will not allow a 3/8" rod to be inserted. I had hoped to find the loading tip, but that is the part I lost.

    Long story cut short... the ramrod broke in the barrel and wedged. Ended up shooting it out. Didn't see the landing location so the original ramrod equipment and rod are no longer.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    The Jukar I had many years back was not to reliable. The reamer marks in the bore were deeper than the rifling. They sold new at about $40 back then.

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I prefer the after market ram rods. They come in a various of types. Mostly different plasics or you can get a metal one. One I have seen is wood impregnated with a resin like epoxy. If you go with wood, you have to get a good quality hardwood like hickory. You don't want a ramrod to break and go through your hand. I have wooden ones for my guns but carry a plastic rod for loading.
    You can use a spit patch to wipe your bore if you don't have anything else. I have rods that are longer than needed to load to clean with. Makes it easier or you can use a regular cleaning rod. They make adapters for the ML brushes so the threads match or you can get a cleaning brush that matches the right threads. You can get ready made rods or get the parts and make it the length you want.
    Aim small, miss small!

  16. #16
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    Had one in 45 a number of years back that shot better than I could. Won a number of blanket shoots with the thing. Not much to look at tho!
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  17. #17
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    Hoo-boy, did you take a chance with that gun! I would have wanted a VERY long string to try that!
    The way to get a new ramrod, is to get one slightly oversize, and scrape it until it will fit, then sand and finish.

    Quote Originally Posted by VintageRifle View Post
    Well, it shoots a nice group at 25 yards. Starts to go all over the place after 10 shots. I didn't take my cleaning supplies as I didn't plan on shooting it much so it was a short shooting session.

    Got a question about the ramrod size. I need a new one (another reason the shooting session was cut short).

    The original rod was about an inch too short. Appears to never have been intended to clean the rifle at all.

    Best I can come up with is a 3/8 dowel, but that is too large. The next size down it much too small. The thimbles will not allow a 3/8" rod to be inserted. I had hoped to find the loading tip, but that is the part I lost.

    Long story cut short... the ramrod broke in the barrel and wedged. Ended up shooting it out. Didn't see the landing location so the original ramrod equipment and rod are no longer.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check