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Thread: Tumble Lubing--Made Easy & Mess-Free

  1. #61
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by JesterGrin_1 View Post
    If you wish to cook the solvents out of the JPW how long does that take on a hot plate at 350F may I ask?
    I generally get most of them cooked out within ten to fifteen minutes after the JPW has completely melted inside the pot.


  2. #62
    Boolit Master Wayne S's Avatar
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    When mixing the 45/45/10 or skiping the MS and going 50/50, do you measure by Vol. ie, 1/4 cup Alox [liquid] & 1/4 cup JPW [solid] or melt the JPW and measure it as a liquid ??
    I know I'm over thinking this just past training makes me want to know
    IHMSA # 566 "time sure flies when you're having FUN"

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne S View Post
    When mixing the 45/45/10 or skiping the MS and going 50/50, do you measure by Vol. ie, 1/4 cup Alox [liquid] & 1/4 cup JPW [solid] or melt the JPW and measure it as a liquid ??
    I know I'm over thinking this just past training makes me want to know
    Do you measure the JPW before or after the solvents have been burned off. When I tried it I started with 1/4 cup of JPW in my measuring cup and by the time the solvents burned off it was down to less than an ounce in the pan.

    I added another 1/4 cup of LLA and then as it was cooling 1 tablespoon of MS. I haven't had time to try it out yet so I don't know how well it works.
    If you get your shots in the black, the 10s and Xs will take care of themselves.

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne S View Post
    When mixing the 45/45/10 or skiping the MS and going 50/50, do you measure by Vol. ie, 1/4 cup Alox [liquid] & 1/4 cup JPW [solid] or melt the JPW and measure it as a liquid ??
    I know I'm over thinking this just past training makes me want to know
    I melt the JPW and cook (most of) the solvents out. I then use that in my measurements. Whatever JPW is left over, goes into a "mould" with other leftover JPW, which in turn gets melted and blended into several of my stick-lube concoction recipes.


  5. #65
    Boolit Buddy
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    Does the car wax have to be Johnson past wax? OR CAN i USE Kit carnauba car wax?

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by twally View Post
    Does the car wax have to be Johnson past wax? OR CAN i USE Kit carnauba car wax?
    The JPW that they are referring to is Johnson Paste Wax for floors!
    EW

  7. #67
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    Thank's for straightening me out, I saw the yellow can and thought it was car wax.

    I just lubed a batch of cast boolits today for the first time with straight Lee alox ,as a mater of fact I just cast my first batch of boolits today also. What is the benefit of adding JPW and MS to the ALOX?

    I chose the tumble lube method because it seems real simple and doesn't require an expensive lubesizer. And also seems like less labor and mess than pan lubing I just hope it is as effective as lube in the groove.

  8. #68
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    No more paste wax???

    I spent 2 hrs. today driving around town trying to buy Johnson's paste wax. Home Depot, Rona, Walmart, Home hardware, etc. I can find Trewax and Minwax, but no Johnson's. In my frustration I sent an email off to S C Johnson's. Within 4 hrs. I got a very nice reply from a lady named Connie, stating that they had discontinued the product, but would pass my request on. They would also be sending me a sample of alternate products Just when I find a solution to my undersized boolits, this shows up. Have any of you bought JPW recently?? My guess is that there must be a substitute. Anyone have any ideas where to go from here. This recipe's too good to scrap. Ron.D

  9. #69
    Boolit Mold
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    i did a search and found it on Ace Hardware's site.

    George

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by twally View Post

    I just lubed a batch of cast boolits today for the first time with straight Lee alox ,as a mater of fact I just cast my first batch of boolits today also. What is the benefit of adding JPW and MS to the ALOX?
    The JPW does several things, one of of which is allows the boolit lube to dry faster and harder. Second, it negates the "tacky" or "sticky" or "gummy" tendencies that (too much) LLA can have. In turn, that reduces--or in my experience, eliminates--the buildup of lube gunk in your seating dies during the reloading process. And finally, the carnauba helps keep the bore clean and shiny and much easier to clean after shooting.


  11. #71
    Boolit Man
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    I checked several stores today but finally found a shelf full at a grocery store. Most retailers told me that "they quit making it". I'm new to casting and I am 60+ years old. What would be considered a "lifetime supply". I don't know how far this stuff goes so I bought two cans just to be on the safe side. Anyone think I need to buy more???; its on the shelf.

  12. #72
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    I don't know what would be a lifetime supply, but if someone could send me a couple tins, I'd be happy to pay that plus shipping and consider that I still owe them a favour. A hundred 35 cal boolits from any one of 4 molds or something else of interest. Ron.D

  13. #73
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    The Home Depot in Aurora, CO had several cans so I got one of them. The S.C. Johnson website has a section (http://www.scjbrands.com/mailorder/) where you can mail order products that are obsolete or hard to find. This may be of use if your local stores are out.
    If you get your shots in the black, the 10s and Xs will take care of themselves.

  14. #74

    Cool

    I think it is a waste of time and $$$ to use Johnson paste wax since you are removing the solvents anyways.
    Look here:
    http://www.freemansupply.com/MSDS/sc...onpastewax.pdf
    Just buy pure Paraffin and Carnuba & mix it yourself.
    Political correctness defined :

    A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

  15. #75
    Boolit Master LeadThrower's Avatar
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    from 10mill: "I think it is a waste of time and $$$ to use Johnson paste wax since you are removing the solvents anyways."

    One minor thing is that the isoparaffinic hydrocarbon solvent is composed of hydrocarbons with 9 - 12 carbons (medium naphtha). They're waxlike themselves, and won't completely cook out. They're also not available at the hardware store (at least as a solvent).

    I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that a single can of JPW, used at 45% to coat boolits with a film which should be so thin as to be barely visible, should last long enough that another equally ingenious caster will find another off-the-shelf solution long before your JPW runs out.
    Last edited by LeadThrower; 02-03-2010 at 10:01 AM.

  16. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10mill View Post
    I think it is a waste of time and $$$ to use Johnson paste wax since you are removing the solvents anyways.
    So, you tried it and it didn't work?

    By the way, you're not able to remove all the solvents anyhow--and those that are left are beneficial to the purpose of blending it with alox/xlox and other ingredients.


  17. #77
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    I'm enjoying this post immensely. When the weather warms up and my ballistic lab (garage) warms up I think I'll make up a big batch of this stuff. I've been just warming up the boolits in a steel coffee can and pouring them into a cut out windshield washer jug with a couple globs of JPW. A little agitation coats the boolits and they cool on a sheet of waxed paper. Works fine so far. I haven't pushed the velocity at all yet. We'll see what Spring brings.

    As far as burning JPW, what former G.I. among us hasn't wrapped a coat hanger around a can of it and set it on fire? Makes it much easier to dribble on the floor for the buffer to go over.

    Heck, before my wife straightened my a** out I tried to boil a pan of vegetable oil on the stove to make some freedom fries. Needless to say, you're not going to get it to boil before it catches fire. Well I just didn't know. I carried it out to the patio and laid a board over it to starve the fire of oxygen. I mostly just wanted it out of the house.

    It pays to have a bit of a thick skin when participating in these internet forums. The exchange of information and services on this particular forum is among the best and makes putting up with some of the more abrasive members worth your while. If you were speaking with them face to face you'd probably see that they are OK guys, just really adamant in their beliefs due in large part to many years of experience. It makes little difference to me whether "some guy on the internet" thinks I'm a retard. He's not in my food chain. I freely share anecdotes of my screwups partly because they're often good for a laugh and partly in the hope that someone avoids doing the same thing. All in all this is a great place to hang out.

    Paul

  18. #78
    Boolit Man
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    pjh421, I made a rather large batch last night and as I was melting the JPW, I recalled having smelled this before but it took me a while to remember where. Back in the "Black Boot" army one of the tricks to get the boot polish to "soak in" was to ignite a light coat of polish on the boot. It was just enough to flash and burn for a second or two but it served the purpose. Smelled just like the lightly smoking JPW. BTW, the lube seems to be working well. I just haven't had time to load and shoot yet.

  19. #79
    Boolit Master LouisianaMan's Avatar
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    Have read this entire thread with great interest!

    As a "Black Boot Army" vet (1981-2005), I particularly enjoyed the last couple of posts. PJH421, Duckhunter & I should get together & see if we can replace JPW with Kiwi black polish. . .light the top of the polish & pour the resulting liquid in with some LLA & mineral spirits & shoot black bullets!

    OK, I'll calm down now. . .I just started casting last summer, and quickly went from straight LLA to the 50-50 LLA-MS, which did wonders for the entire TL process. Will try Recluse's recipe to see how she does! I'll also track down Buckshot to see about a push-thru sizer for my .38S&W's at about .360.

    Thanks for all the tips. If it weren't for this forum, I don't think I would have dared get into casting, but so far I've found answers to every problem here, to include the several self-inflicted ones!

  20. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by LouisianaMan View Post
    \
    As a "Black Boot Army" vet
    Oh yeah, a Bic lighter, some cotton puffs and a can of Kiwi and we spent many an evening in the barracks polishing boots. Not exactly real fond memories.

    LouisianaMan. . . every time I see that, I keep hearing Doug Kershaw stroking his fiddle and alternately crooning and belting "Louisiana Man" to wild-eye clapping Cajuns everywhere.

    Man that boy can flat play a fiddle--not bad on the squeezebox either.


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check