Thanks Recluse
Good to know about the trewax
I did manage to find mineral spirits, the next town over with a Walmart had a shelf full
Thanks Recluse
Good to know about the trewax
I did manage to find mineral spirits, the next town over with a Walmart had a shelf full
Recluse, is this the Trewax polish that you've tried?
http://www.oreck.co.uk/products/info.php/ST81
Just like to know if this stuff is suitable?
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Dromia,
That's the brand, but the can(s) I have aren't specifically for dark wood--as the link you provided indicates. You might check the data sheet on it and see if it has a dye added to it. No big deal if it does--the original Johnson Paste Wax had a dye added for color.
Good to know about Trewax. Fortunately our Walmart carries JPW and I bought a few cans the other day.
Still trying to clarify one point though. When reducing the paste wax from a 16 oz can to use in 45/45/10, what volume is adequate to know you have done it enough? 8 oz ? 4 oz?
Thanks.
First post! I cooked up a batch last night, have not tried it yet. All indications are good as the remains left in the funnel dried to a hard non-tacky surface. I cant wait to try it...maybe this weekend. I have used rooster jacket up to this point. Thanks for the awesome recipe. Also, side note: I work at an Ace Hardware, and our local warehouse has hundreds of cans of JPW.
Last edited by ShooterAZ; 01-12-2012 at 05:51 PM. Reason: added comment on JPW
Made my 2nd batch of 45/45/10 tonight, but used XLOX instead of ALOX. The first batch using ALOX was great...dried quickly and no tackiness at all. The batch tonight was made the same, but with XLOX and it is staying tacky in comparison. Nothing like straight ALOX but noticeably more tacky than the batch made with ALOX. Have others had the same experience?
Can't wait to load some up and shoot some to see if the performance is the same.
Answered my own question! It took a little longer for the boolits to dry, but now they are as tack free as the original 45/45/10 recipe using ALOX. Actually feel a little slipperier this morning with the XLOX batch. Nice!
The temprature of the lube and boolits when applied make a huge difference in the dry time. I have started heating the boolits in an oven to 180F and putting the lube container in a pot of water as hot as my sink will put out, once the boolits are up to temp I put them in my container and squirt lube on them, takes about 5-10 minutes to dry doing it this way. when doing them cold it took hours, even sitting in the sun.
Yup, this is what I do too. I nuke the lube in the micro for about 30-45 seconds, heat the boolits in the oven at 200 until warm to the touch. I made a drying rack out of 2x4's and hardware cloth. They dry almost instantly. I also learned that if you get too much lube on the boolits, you can put back in the oven on a cookie sheet and then dab with a paper towel. Only a very small amount of this lube will go a LONG ways.
I need to make another batch. Gave 1 bottle away and the other one is almost gone.
Al
WAL-MART has 6 cans of JPW on shelf for $5.97. DFW area.
It was stated not to cook the jpw over an open flame. Do not cook it with the burner on high either. I needed to add a liitle more max to mix after cooking it for 15 min. I added a little and put the burner on high to speed up the process. 5 minutes later my reloading bench is covered in flames. threw a towel over the pot, problem solved
It was stated not to cook the jpw over an open flame. Do not cook it with the burner on high either. I needed to add a liitle more max to mix after cooking it for 15 min. I added a little and put the burner on high to speed up the process. 5 minutes later my reloading bench is covered in flames. threw a towel over the pot, problem solved
My first batch I don't think I cooked the JPW enough. It was cold outside which I think will make a difference. The liquid never really boiled, just steamed a little. My second batch is much better, I can tell the difference. A much thicker mix.
Just for everyone's information, I whipped up my first batch of 45/45/10 substituting "Butcher's Boston Polish - Amber Paste Wax" for JPW...mainly because I had a 1# can on-hand that I'd picked up off a yard sale for $.50...and it worked fine and dandy. Half a can cooked down to almost exactly 4 oz. of liquid so I added a full bottle of LLA and just under an oz. of mineral spirits then bottled it up. Tumbled boolits dried to a slick, waxy finish in three-four hours and looked just like Recluse's pics. Loaded a some plain-base .38s on the SDB and ran a couple dozen through my SP101...two dry patches to remove the powder fouling and the cylinder throats and bore looked as if it hadn't been fired. Wouldn't recommend running out and paying retail for Butcher's though...off the shelf, it's about three times the price of JPW.
Bill
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Nice Art, Tickle.
Question:
After reading this really great method made simple (thank-you!) way to mix a successful solution I have a pre-read tumble lube question.
I have approximately 30-50 cast boolits that I had tumble lubed streight, you can see and feel a tacky LLA residue left on them.
Should I wash them clean in a streight mineral spirit bath cleaning them. Leave dry on wax paper over night or until dry and apply the 45/45/10 to them.
I'd think this is the way to go although since they are already LLA coated I guess you could also heat them and add 45% Johnson wax and the 10% minerial spirits although not sure how that would turn out.
Any suggestions would be helpful.
Tom
Folks in the past have loaded their boolits and then wiped the noses off with a MS rag to satisfactory effect.
More "This is what happened when I,,,,," and less "What would happen if I,,,,"
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