If you have machining marks in the bbl , you might want to fire lap your bbl, you can find out how in the threads here.
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If you have machining marks in the bbl , you might want to fire lap your bbl, you can find out how in the threads here.
Slow Elk 45/70
Praise the Lord & Pass the Ammo
looks like you ran into a severly lead fouled barrel. Have you actually looked at the barrel to see if you can see lead build up. Ive had good luck with kroil or rust buster. cork off the end of the barrel and fill the barrel with it and let it sit about a week then brush with a chore boy on a brass brush. that will usually take care of any fouling. Ive never owned a foul out but have seen them work and they do work if you have the bucks to buy one.
Boys, the STEEL wool WILL NOT harm your barrel! I got the idea from the big time Shuetzen match shooters who spend big bucks an barrels and make them last for decades. And think about this- the final POLISH on a blued barrel is often done with 4/0 STEEL WOOL. Trust me, it won't hurt your barrel.Originally Posted by Gee_Wizz01
I am not so sure about that.
I trashed a Ruger 10/22 Barrel with steel wool.
It was all I had at the time. I put some steel wool on a cleaning brush. I wove it around the brush, not all that tight, and proceeded to brush away.
When I was done, most of the rifling was rounded down. It went from having sharp corners to being almost not there.
Now, that was a Ruger. That might have been the reason. Also the barrel was of unknown age and condition. I got it real used.
I would go with Chore Boy, and then Fire lap with paper patch lubed with Clover.
What's Clover?
Valve grinding compound usually found at auto parts stores.
Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway!
Men who don't understand women fall into two categories: bachelors and husbands!
Most, but not all, valve grinding compounds found at auto stores is very coarse and not recommended for rifle bores.
Clover is a major, and good, brand of grinding compounds...and expensive. I had a nice can of it in 0000 grade.
Joe
...it'd be really interesting to compare accuracy before and after this intensive cleaning....
...any chance of that comparrison?....
Safe shooting,
Limey
.......never mind Quigley's gun....I just wish I had his eyesight!!!!
If you're talking about the 6.5's I'll ask, but you know 6.5's are plenty accurate to start with in my opinion.
Joe
The COW compresses into a biscuit and scrubs the bore clean as it goes down the barrel. There are several threads here and on other sites that discuss this same thing.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...t=23767&page=2
US Govt mantra: If it's moving tax it. If it's still moving regulate it. If it stops moving subsidize it
In addition to the various chemical recommendations posted above, I've had great success with bore snakes. They're washable, reusable, and instead of using 743 patches, you just run the bore snake through it a couple of times. I don't even use cotton patches any more. I'm sure your local enabler has one for sized for a .45 in stock. They usually run in the neighborhood of $14 to $17.
TANSTAAFL
I would try a bore size plus a couple thou soft boolit (ACWW) over a full load of Trailboss powder.
Half a dozen shots should have it cleaned up nice. Lube them boolits with something good like Lar's Carnauba Red for best results.
I have been surprised how well this combination works for getting and keeping a bore clean.
A soft, bore sized booit at low velocity is a pretty good and fast bore scrubber.
Jack
How many weeks did you spend at it?Can't see it, no way. The only thing I can think is you got some extremely hard steel wool (you did use 4/0 right?) or you had the softest barrel ever made. You can rub your skin for a good long while with 4/0 and not make much of an abrasion.
Now if you used stainless steel wool of 1/0 or 2/0 grade I could see some damage happening.
It might have been the barrel.
The rifling just disappeared. I never fired it, the divorce came too quickly.
I had never seen anything like it before.
I use alot of 0000 steel wool in my barrels and have not had any problems. I did however totally trash a Remington xp-100 .221 barrel using a stainless steel brush. I was using the brush on the barrel and got "glitter" out of it (was shooting cast boolits of course). Thought it was working well until I looked down the bore and found that the rifling was scrubbed away!
Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway!
Men who don't understand women fall into two categories: bachelors and husbands!
Do it yourself Electric Bore Cleaner
I made an electric bore cleaner based loosely on this article: http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews/copperout/index.asp
Only cost me about a buck and a half for some rubber plugs, and a bottle of household ammonia.
Mark
Any way you sell it,
No matter how you spell it,
When you start to smell it,
BO Stinks!
The thing is, with my Ruger barrel, I did not use a lot of steel wool. I made a wooden dowel fixture, and wrapped the steel wool around it. I shoved it in the barrel. A few times back and forth and that was it.
I looked in the bore, and the rifleing was mostly worn smooth. The action did not show that much wear.
I wondered for over a decade, did Ruger ever make the barrel in aluminum? Might I have gotten one. Other wise, that steel in the barrel was softer than grade 2. I did not expect any wear.
Perhaps it was not worn, I was just looking for Ballard rifleing.
I never found out.
Listen to Bret4207. Steel wool in 4/0 grade WILL NOT hurt your barrel!
After bluing I rub the barrels down with 0000 steel wool. After finishing a stock I rub the stock down with 4/0 to give a satin finish. NO scratches in the bluing and no scratches on the stocks. However, be sure the steel wool is 0000 grade.
Larry
Well, I think it's mostly clean. The last few patches wrapped around the brush, soaked in Hoppes, and short-stroked down the barrel have come out only slightly brownish. Still doesn't look like it would shoot, but...
Sadly, not really, unless it gets markedly worse. I was zeroing at 25 yards, since that's the range I'd be shooting at my buddy's place. From kneeling the bullet holes were usually touching each other before any cleaning. After the first round of cleaning they were almost all touching, but I was shooting from sitting with a sling that time, and was a little more used to the buckhorn sight picture (usually I shoot aperture sights). I'll try to shoot it again tomorrow or Thursday from slung sitting again.
I really appreciate everyone's contributions...I learned a couple of new things!
Next step...the sights. The front post (3/8" dovetail in the octagonal barrel) is noticeably off to the lright and has thus far resisted my efforts to move it. I started out with Kroil, a 3/8" flat punch, and a dead blow mallet; gentle tapping at first, getting progressively more forceful. I quit when the side of the sight's dovetail started flattening out with still no movement. Fortunately, the rear was easy enough to move and the rifle is only about a half-inch off at 25 yards.
Does anyone know of a sight pusher that'll work on an octagonal barrel? It's about .71 across at the muzzle end.
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