which flux is better

[fiatmom]

I have read that was is better than borax since it does not remove tin , and saw dust is even better since it will remove certain impurities. Is this true

[oneokie]

Borax draws moisture, which is not a good thing when it comes to molten lead.
Wax is ok (imo).
Sawdust is my flux of choice. Very good source of carbon which removes the oxygen from the oxides which float to the surface of the melt, thus reducing the metals back into the alloy.

[Ctkelly]

Far from an expert here and in fact just smelted my first pot....they were some pretty clean wheel weight ignots I got from a friend, after using Pats california flake flux I was surprised to see how much more crud rose to the top of the pot. At 22.00 a large box that will probably last a lifetime, I'd say you cant go wrong with it.

[timkelley]

Sawdust from your or your friends woodshop. I like Dougfir or pine (smells wonderful) and works.

[mold maker]

You wont belive how good pecan or peach saw dust works and smells. Cedar smells great also.
Pats saw dust is a great flux, just be sure not to open it in the wind. He packs it so tight in that box, it's like its spring loaded. Moms patio looked like it snowed in JULY.

[azcoyhunter]

I use a tea light.
Waite until the flames go out, and stir with a Juniper stick
Very nice smell, and I think it does a good job

[RayinNH]

Old candle stubbs, color crayons and used motor oil also work well...Ray

[snaggdit]

I will agree with the sawdust, but personally use charcoal from my woodstove. I pull logs that turn to charcoal overnight but fail to burn up. I crush them with a hatchet then use the small chunks as flux (stirred with a wood stick). They never flash, and slowly reduce to ash. I leave a layer on top of my casting pot as an insulator. For "smelting" I skim it off after stirring. It works for me.

[geargnasher]

I will agree with the sawdust, but personally use charcoal from my woodstove. I pull logs that turn to charcoal overnight but fail to burn up. I crush them with a hatchet then use the small chunks as flux (stirred with a wood stick). They never flash, and slowly reduce to ash. I leave a layer on top of my casting pot as an insulator. For "smelting" I skim it off after stirring. It works for me.

Awww, but you miss out on all the great smoke and stink if you do it that way!

+1 on the pecan, Moldmaker, I have a good friend/neighbor who has a custom cabinet shop and I get all kinds of stuff. I've used aromatic cedar shavings too, killed every mosquito in my end of the county!

Gear

[hammerhead357]

Gear bring that over here to Medina county. After this rain we have mosquitos that will scare the heck out of a helicopter....Wes

[armyrat1970]

I use MARVELUX for pure fluxing when smelting. I don't worry about oxidation when smelting. To slow oxidation when casting I use CFF and even dried Oak leaves. The Oak leaves leave a nice film of ash on top of the melt and I have a free supply of them. Tried them a little while back and they work great. Never tried them yet for fluxing when smelting but will and if they work, will never buy another flux. If you use them right before they are dried out they still have a little oil or sap in them. I always add a little MARVELUX into the pot if I add another ingot. Then stir and remove whatever may float to the top and then add more CFF or Oak leaves.
If you add solder to your alloy to raise the tin % flux core solder also works well.

[Ugluk]

I have a # or so of Borax I purchased for my attempts at welding in my forge.
Could this be used to make pure from unknown or contaminated lead?

If so, how much would be needed?

[dominicfortune00]

Ugluk

What is your lead contaminated with?

If it's zinc, do a search for removing zinc with sulfur as there was a thread on it recently; or seperate out zinc by temperarture when melting the lead.

As far as unknown lead, melt and flux with a source of carbon, like sawdust, a dry wooden stick, dry oak leaves, etc..., and see what you end up with.

You might be surprised with the results.

[Ugluk]

Hi Dominic
My lead's fine, ww and range scrap. I was merely wondering if it would be a feasible way to get unknowns pure for softpoints, boreslugs and muzzleloader balls and such.
I passed on a few lumps of melted unknown at the tiredealers on my last raid for ww.
If I could use my Borax to turn unknowns into pure for alloying, I might pick them up to.

I read the Zink-Sulphur thread with great interest, and use candles for my fluxing/reducing. Will however try charcoal next time.

[Bret4207]

Ugluk- I don;t know of any way to remove the tin/antimony from a lead alloy. Once they join it is my understanding they tend to stay in solution.

Flux with a stick, stir and scrape your pot with a stick. It works like any other carbon form, (wax, sawdust, etc) to help the oxides reduce back into the melt.

Now if you want and air barrier on top then I can see adding sawdust, etc.

[Blacksmith]

Has anyone tried walnut shells like used for tumbling cases?

[azcoyhunter]

I use MARVELUX for pure fluxing when smelting. I don't worry about oxidation when smelting. To slow oxidation when casting I use CFF and even dried Oak leaves. The Oak leaves leave a nice film of ash on top of the melt and I have a free supply of them. Tried them a little while back and they work great. Never tried them yet for fluxing when smelting but will and if they work, will never buy another flux. If you use them right before they are dried out they still have a little oil or sap in them. I always add a little MARVELUX into the pot if I add another ingot. Then stir and remove whatever may float to the top and then add more CFF or Oak leaves.
If you add solder to your alloy to raise the tin % flux core solder also works well.

I also like to use Marvelux, but it gets spendy compared to tea lights.
do you use the 1 pound cans? Can it go bad? I know it asorbs moisture, does that matter?

[Ugluk]

Bret4207, I'm gonna try the stick too. Thanks for the tip.

[armyrat1970]

I also like to use Marvelux, but it gets spendy compared to tea lights.
do you use the 1 pound cans? Can it go bad? I know it asorbs moisture, does that matter?

It cost a little but goes a long way. I have the 1lb. container of it and have had mine for yrs. Can't remember actually how long. With my 10lb Lee pot I just add about a pea sized bit into the mix and then stir. I also use other things to stop or hold off the oxidation, not just the Marvelux. I have been using this 1lb tub for yrs and still have 1/2 left. It may absorb moisture but I have never had a problem as I drop a little on top of the melt and just let it sit until it is dissolved. Then I stir it in with the alloy and remove whatever is floating on the top. I then place a layer of CFF or Oak leaves on top and let them burn down to ash. Once the top of my pot is covered with ash and my mold and alloy is up to temp I start casting. If I add any new ingots, even one that I had already fluxed, I add another pinch of Marvelux, stir, remove any dross, add more CFF or Oak leaves and then continue. Just casted last night and into this morning with my Lee 358-158-RF mold with this process and got very few rejects. Maybe 1 out of every ten. Had to work with the mold a little, but it all worked out well and I have quite a few nice boolits to load for my Marlin Model 1894. I love that rifle and picked it up in very good condition for only $100. HoooAhhh!!
SEMPER FI Marine!

[Shuz]

For general "smelting" I use old candles that my wife has endowed me with. For actual casting, I swear by a pinch of Marvelux and keeping the top of the melt insulated with NEW kitty litter.
For those who have tried Marvelux and don't care for it, I am still a recommended disposal facility, and I don't charge for this service!