any suggestions on correcting frame distortion?

[Multigunner]

I was given a relic early model single six Ruger awhile back. Its in fair mechanical condition though all original finish is gone and the grip looked like it had been used to drive tent pegs.

Anyway I got the gun back in shooting condition, and aside from a light firing pin indentation it shoots okay.

The only real problem is that the front of the frame appears to have been pushed forwards, either by repeated cylinder slap or some other cause.
The cylinder has a lot of endplay, the cause of the light strikes, and when pushed forwards you can see that the cylinder contacts the breech of the barrel at the very top leaving an angled wedge of daylight showing.

I've run across a distorted frame befor, a cheap Zamac framed .38. I corrected that frame by simply rapping the frame directly under the barrel with a lead mallet till it it was once again square and tight.

Any suggestions on how to accomplish the same with this Ruger?
I'd rather not go pounding on this old revolver with a mallet if theres a better way.

[Coffeecup]

If I'm understanding this correctly, the problem could be addressed by making the cylinder nose longer, correct?

I had a .41 mag with a similar problem. I cut a washer from some teflon shim stock (I think it was intended to be used to address endshake in S&W revolvers) and held it on the cylinder with a dab of RIG. I had to replace the washer a couple of times after losing it while the cylinder was out, but it was ten years before I got the cylinder correctly repaired. In a .22 it should last forever (or until you lose the washer and have to replace it.

[Multigunner]

If I'm understanding this correctly, the problem could be addressed by making the cylinder nose longer, correct?

I had a .41 mag with a similar problem. I cut a washer from some teflon shim stock (I think it was intended to be used to address endshake in S&W revolvers) and held it on the cylinder with a dab of RIG. I had to replace the washer a couple of times after losing it while the cylinder was out, but it was ten years before I got the cylinder correctly repaired. In a .22 it should last forever (or until you lose the washer and have to replace it.

I took the single six out and examined just now, and things seem to have changed a bit since I first noticed the irregularity.
I suspect that the distortion was caused by someone using the long barrel as a handle when driving tent stakes or some other hammering use, a previous owner had watched too many old westerns I guess.
I'd fired the pistol only a few times since putting it back together, and I think vibration of firing, it has a .22 WMR cylinder, seems to have caused the metal of the frame to recover its shape, a sort of metal memory.
its still just a hair loose, but no where near as loose as it was, and the wedge shaped gap is now evened out.
Theres still a hair of end shake but well within limits. The face of the cylinder still makes contact with the breech before the end of the cylinder bushing contacts the frame, but the difference is minute, probably no more than one thousanth of an inch now.

Guess I'll take it out and run a couple of boxes through it to see if the metal memory theory holds water.
If so it may completely recover its shape.

I am fairly certain now that the distortion was not due to cylinder slap, but due to abuse of the pistol in using it as a hammer.
I think this pistol may have once been used as a prop gun at a nearby old west town, they used Ruger Old Army C&B guns for blank firing last time I was there, its possible they used single six Rugers at one time, that would explain the pistol being used to hammer on stuff, like nailing up wanted posters in the movies.

[44man]

I don't think there is any way to distort a Ruger frame short of using a pipe through it to remove a barrel.
That sounds like extreme wear from shooting the gun dry.
The pin, cylinder and ratchet should always be lubed. I use STP on all of mine and almost 60,000 rounds from one has shown no wear anywhere.
That gun sounds like it was used for fast draw practice and the hammer jerked back with dry metal and maybe dropped a lot. No quicker way to wear off the blue and beat the grips.

[tek4260]

May need a Power Custom gas ring shim installed. Look in Midway and get a sack of them. I believe that will set the cylinder back enough to cure it rubbing the barrel and also cure your light strikes.

[Multigunner]

May need a Power Custom gas ring shim installed. Look in Midway and get a sack of them. I believe that will set the cylinder back enough to cure it rubbing the barrel and also cure your light strikes.

That sounds like a good idea. If the metal memory doesn't work out I'll give it a try. As is the gap between cylinder bushing and frame is minute. I figure anything thin enough to fit would break easy.
I'm considering tinning the end of the bushing with silver solder, that should act as a bearing surface softer than the steel of the frame. In very thin layers silver solder, especially High force 44 is fairly tough metal.
I'll probably get a new mainspring later on, that in itself might be the source of light strikes.

That gun sounds like it was used for fast draw practice and the hammer jerked back with dry metal and maybe dropped a lot. No quicker way to wear off the blue and beat the grips.

First thing I did was to make a new firing pin, it had been dry fired a lot. If it still had the original cylinder it would probably be very battered.
There was practically no bluing left on the barrel and it was rusty and slightly pitted all over. The grips were long gone and there are indentations on the bottom of the grip frame where it had been used to beat on something. I can't complain much since I got it for free. Since its collector value is nil I can customise it anyway I like.
Only investment is my time and effort.
I'd like to get an aftermarket brass grip frame, but last time I looked these were priced way too high.
Once I've sanded and polished way all the dents and dings in the grip frame I'll probably polish it bright and put on some tough clear coat so it stays shiny. I got some Aluminum blacking solution for touching up another pistol with alloy frame. It works pretty good. I'll be needing that to refinish the alloy ejector housing.

I was pretty good at making wooden grips years ago, sold a few. So making grips to fit my hand perfectly is not beyond my skills. I still have my checkering tools around here somewhere.

Instead of getting a .22 LR cylinder for it, I plan to sleeve one chamber for the smaller diameter LR and when carrying I'd want to leave one chamber empty under the hammer (five beans in the wheel) since this early model doesn't have the transfer bar safety. Having one chamber sleeved will be a good reminder, and will allow single shot plinking with the cheaper .22 LR and indoor practice or pest control with CB caps.

The .22 Magnum from a long barrel can be a respectable home defense tool, and packs a bit more punch for small game up to turkey size.

These old Single Six revolvers were made before Ruger quality control began its down hill slide. It is massively overbuilt for a .22.
I have no doubts that a cheap Zamac framed .22 would have never survived the abuse this old gun went through.

[44man]

No matter, it is still a nice gun to have. A lot of fun just to work on it and I bet it will still shoot good.
When you get it done post some pictures.

[9.3X62AL]

What 44 Man said! I cannot imagine anyone with an ounce of concern for his/her sideiron--whether in 1880 or 2010--using a revolver butt as a hammer head. More Hollyweird Horse Pucky, methinks. But, I'm sure it has occurred--and just when you believe you have plumbed the utter depths of human ignorance, something occurs that shows you just how naively optimistic you were. Thankfully, such things are rare and infrequent. Think "Darwin Awards" in this context.

The "metal memory" concept is kind of intriguing, and stands to reason. I think it is laudable of you to restore that classic Ruger to shooting condition. Kinda like adopting a shelter dog, you're very likely to get a faithful friend and enjoyable field companion.

[Lloyd Smale]

How attached to it are you? Id about bet if you sent it to ruger to repair theyd probably replace it with a new gun at no cost.

[Multigunner]

How attached to it are you? Id about bet if you sent it to ruger to repair theyd probably replace it with a new gun at no cost.

Any time you send an early model Single Six into Ruger for repairs they upgrade it with the tranfer bar safety. The transfer bar works okay on pistols that were manufactured with it to begin with, but I hear the retro fits often don't work as well.

Any way since the end shake is far less now than it was I figure I can get the rest out. Since the cylinder makes contact before the bushing touches the frame and the frame shows a good deal of wear there, plus the Magnum Cylinder probably wasn't original equipment, I figure that part of the situation was due to some previous owner fitting a used magnum cylinder that had been been on another gun and fitted to it rather than to this pistol.
This cylinder thats on it couldn't have caused the wear to the frame since it doesn't touch it.

As is the gun shoots okay. I'm just working on making it a better fit to avoid problems in the future. Also the better the primer/rim indentation the more consistent the ignition and better the accuracy.
I figure a new coil mainspring will settle the light pin strike issue.

PS
I never part with a gift. It does have some sentimental value. Plus as I mentioned earlier, a gun that no longer has collector value is one I can customise as much as I please.
I kind of like the retro look of this early model, I'd rather have it than one of the newer models..

[Multigunner]

The "metal memory" concept is kind of intriguing, and stands to reason. I think it is laudable of you to restore that classic Ruger to shooting condition. Kinda like adopting a shelter dog, you're very likely to get a faithful friend and enjoyable field companion.

I've been looking into this.
There are a number of alloys that exhibit this behaviour. When an object made from this is bent cold, it regains the shape of the original forging if heated.
The main types are those that contain both Nickel and Titanium.
Some regain their shape at relatively low temperatures, these are used for tooth straightening appliances, simple body heat doing the job.

Ruger is known for investment cast frames, I don't know if they ever used forgings.

[tek4260]

Multigunner,

If you PM your address, I'll send you Power Custom gas ring shim to try. I had to use one on a well worn OM SBH to keep it from battering the rear of the frame with the ratchet. The shims are only .002 thick and would be a better option than tinning. If you can see the gap between the gas ring and the frame, it is more than likely too much. Setting the cylinder back will also cure the light strikes. I have never seen a mainspring in a Ruger get weak FWIW. I had light strikes once on a 44 I bought, but some idiot replaced the spring with a spring for a lock equipped gun. Changing to the right spring cured my issues.

[44man]

Remember the hand pushes the cylinder forward when the gun is cocked and then the cylinder stays in place from inertia and the frame comes back and hits the front from recoil. So, yes, the front will touch the frame every time and can wear no matter how much play you have.
Too much play will have a rebound at the rear and you will see some indentations from the ratchet on the rear of the frame.
Best to have minimum end play and use a good lube. STP seems to act like a cushion along with preventing wear from turning.

[geargnasher]

Thanks for the STP tip, 44man. I'm in the habit of using castor bean oil but it gets gummy in storage.

Gear

[Lloyd Smale]

when they update your gun to the new SAFE system ( for what thats worth) they will give you back your old parts so you can change it back if you want. think of it as getting spare parts for free.

[44man]

STP is funny stuff. I think RCBS case lube is the same. It stays pretty much where you put it but will creep some. What I put on my ratchets will work into the action too and it does a good job of lubricating internal parts. I never have a problem with it in cold weather either.
I don't know what it would do if it was 30 or 40 below!
I really like it on my cap and ball, I can shoot a long time without the cylinder binding.
I have tried all kinds of grease and oils and they all seem to just blow away.
Plain gun oil on the pin of a clean gun still lets me feel metal to metal when turning the cylinder but STP seems to float it.
I keep it in a squeeze bottle and only use a drop here and there. No matter how many shots I take, the stuff is always still there even if it gets dirty.