Titan ReloadingInline FabricationReloading EverythingLee Precision
RotoMetals2Load DataMidSouth Shooters SupplyRepackbox
Wideners
Page 5 of 15 FirstFirst 1234567891011121314 ... LastLast
Results 81 to 100 of 295

Thread: You guys were right about the 6.5x55...

  1. #81
    Banned
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    8,099
    Quote Originally Posted by bruce drake View Post
    Well, I may be on the lookout to purchase one also it seems. I'll give it a shot after I get back from a couple of business trips this month. THe Jap has a 1:8 twist so we'll see what it can do later.

    Bruce
    I don't have the mould, but maybe you can get a few bullets to try first before buying the mould.

    Joe

  2. #82
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,397
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim View Post
    I picked up a 6.5X55 a coupla' months ago. When I saw this thread start up, I thought "Man, this is great! Perfect timing! I'm gonna find out something from these guys that have been at it for a long time that will help me get this thing wrung out."
    I'm very dissapointed. All I've seen so far is "My dog's bigger than your dog" and I haven't learned anything except that there are people here that give me the impression that they "know something" that nobody else does. That ain't helping me a bit.
    I'm goin' across the street and have a cold one.
    I don't blame ya Jim....In time we'll get this all figured out...

    What ever happen to manlyjt and his 6.5 tutoring? I thought he was going to be taught the secrets of the 6.5 in a open forum...
    Maybe he learned to much and was forced to join the "the secret brotherhood of the special ones"... Bwaaaaah!
    Gotta love it eh?
    Last edited by Nrut; 09-05-2009 at 11:02 PM.





  3. #83
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Lake Havasu City, Arizona
    Posts
    21,305
    Jim and O.S.O.K.,

    The following is a long discertation on my perspective of loading for the 6.5 Swede and will be in several consecutive posts. if you read it you will also notice that most of it applies to most other CF rifle cartridges. Im sure there will be lots of 'nit picking" from several but let them write their own discertation on how they load for the 6.5 Swede. I doubt they will though. Anyways you asked for some information so here it is. Feel free to ask any questions.

    Larry Gibson

    Accurate loading of cast bullets for the 6.5 Swede

    The 6.5 Swede in it’s original milsurp form is castigated by many as very difficult to load accurate cast bullet loads for, especially at what is considered to be “high velocity”. If on has an original military M96 or M38 that shoots quality jacketed loads into sub 2 moa then it is also reasonable to expect cast bullets to shoot into the same 2 moa albeit at a much lesser velocity. With the 6.5 Swede most consider any velocity above 1500 fps as “high velocity”. Many have developed very decent loads that push 1800+ fps. However to get into the realm of 1900-2400 fps with a 6.5 Swede and maintain 2 moa accuracy at 100 yards and beyond takes some doing and most often is not doable with components at hand.

    The problems are several; first there is the fast twist. Normal cast bullets are adversely affected by RPM above a certain threshold. That threshold is in the 120-140,000 RPM range. Thus with normal cast bullet loads accuracy will be best in the 1200 to 1500 fps range with cast bullets. Going above this RPM threshold very quickly can have an adverse non-linear affect on accuracy. Then there is the odd size of the 6.5 Swede’s groove depth. Most are .266 to .268” groove depth with a .258 - .260” bore. Thus most modern 6.5 moulds do not cast bullets large enough for a proper fit. These modern moulds drop ill fitting cast bullets that do provide yeoman service with loads in or under the RPM threshold however. If you want to increase velocity above the RPM threshold and maintain accuracy you must have a mould that cast bullets that fit the groove depth and/or the bore of your particular 6.5 Swede rifle. A last but not insurmountable problem is the generous chamber dimensions of many milsurp 6.5 Swede rifles, especially the M96.

    Let us address the steps, equipment and components that will give adequate cast bullet accuracy up through 1800+ fps and give you a solid base to attempt higher velocity if desired. We shall assume that you already have the normal array of reloading equipment to load ammunition and to cast bullets.

    The cartridge case;
    Most milsurp 6.5 Swedes have generous chamber dimensions. Not only does headspace differ considerably between many older M96s and the newer M38s but the chamber necks are usually of large diameter and considerably longer than most “trim to lengths”. For cast bullet shooting ideally we want a concentric neck that fits the length of the chamber neck and with walls of sufficient thickness that only a small amount of expansion is done when the cartridge is fired. This lessons the obturation of the base and shank area of the bullet to a much larger diameter than the throat. Thus less distortion of the bullet when pushed up into the throat with the base of the bullet (GC) also tends to stay square to the bore for better accuracy. Most factory 6.5 Swede cases have fairly thin necks. There are a couple exceptions but mostly on a lot to lot basis. It is best to form the cases from milsurp 30-06 cases. By doing such you can have the thickest necks possible and also trim them to the proper length for your rifles chamber.

    I like to use once fired ’06 cases of one lot or headstamp. I clean the cases, deprime them and remove the crimp if necessary. I then initially form them in a 8x57 form die and the excess case length is cut off. I then anneal them. The preformed cases are then FL sized in a 7x57 die with the depriming stem removed. I then sacrifice one case by trimming it way too short to adjust the headspace of the 6.5 FL die to match the headspace of the rifles chamber. I begin to size this
    Last edited by Larry Gibson; 09-07-2009 at 09:12 AM.

  4. #84
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Lake Havasu City, Arizona
    Posts
    21,305
    case down a little at a time (I adjust the FL die in ¼ turn at a time), trying to chamber the case in the rifle between each sizing. Once the case is sized so I have a “crush fit” closing of the bolt on the case t rest of the he cases are then run into the thus adjusted 6.5 Swede FL die. The depriming stem for this is also adjusted so the expander is just below the case neck as it is pulled out of the die. This is like the Forster/Bonanza Bench rest die and keeps the necks a lot straighter (concentric) as they come out of the sizing operation. Of course the inside of the necks are well lubed for this sizing. I then adjust to trim length by trimming only a little at a time until the bold just closes on the case. T then chamfer the outside of the necks and use a Lyman long taper case neck reamer to ream the inside of the case mouths.

    The cases are ready for fire forming. Everyone knows that most all ’06 cases are a few thousandths smaller in the head diameter than Swede cases (though many modern Swede cases are now the same diameter as ’06 cases). To get even expansion at the expansion ring I use a small one thickness wrap of cellophane tape around the case head. The cellophane is only about ¼” wide. This centers the case for the most part for the initial fire forming. The cases do need too be fire formed before any serious cast bullet load development can begin. I use a top end load to fire form my cases with jacketed bullets (mostly bulk Remington 120 gr bullets). I usually like to fire 3 such loads in each case. I use a permanent marker and mark the rims in 3 spots 120 degrees apart. The first mark is usually over the headstamp arsenal initials and this is first mark is placed up when the case is initially fired. Then on each additional firing I simply rotate the case to the next mark. Of course the cases are neck sized for the subsequent reloads. I may or may not anneal the necks again. I also then outside turn the necks a small amount to ensure concentricity.

    Additionally I will drill out the flash holes with a #30 (#28 being the largest to use) to prevent the attendant shoulder setback caused by the primer explosion with reduced loads. If I do not drill the flash holes out I at least then uniform and deburr them with a Lyman tool. All of this case preparation may seem tedious and a pain but if one wants the best accuracy with cast bullets then a proper fit of the case neck is necessary. This is especially the case if you are going to push the RPM threshold into higher velocities. The bullet needs all the support in the case neck it can get. The use of properly formed cases using ’06 cases is the best way to do it.

    Sizing the case;
    Once you have gone to the trouble of forming case it is ridiculous to ruin them by FL sizing or by even attempting to “partial size” them. Doing either will only lead to frustration with lack of accuracy and negate the benefits of the properly fitted case to your rifles chamber. You will need to neck size. The Lee collet die is a good one for this but with the thicker necks of the formed cases it may not give consistent results of neck tension. A regular NS 6.5 die can be used but I’ve found a custom expander for the M-die will be necessary if you do not want to bend or distort softer alloyed cast bullets during seating. Either bending or distorting or both during seating is not conducive to accuracy so best it not be done. With the uniform thickness and concentricity of the formed case I’ve found the best method to neck size is with bushing dies. I use Redding bushing dies for this. I’ve found that with a small assortment of different diameter bushings I can sizing the cases to give perfect neck tension with no distortion of the bullet. With a proper reaming of the case mouth with the Lyman minimal taper neck reamer the use of an M-die is also many times not necessary. However, with the use of the proper bushing there is no

  5. #85
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Lake Havasu City, Arizona
    Posts
    21,305
    need for an expander and the Lee Universal expander will work fine to slightly flare the case mouth so the cast bullet can be easily seated.

    Primers;
    The selection of what primer to use may come down, particularly these days, to what you can get. In many recent tests of primers I’ve found that most regular LR primers work equally well. Many times though a magnum or magnum type primer (such as CCIs #34s) will not work best with many powders. Best to use regular primers unless you are using very slow burning powders (slower than RL22) or most ball powders (medium and slow burners). In extensive testing with an Oehler M43 which measures external and internal ballistics including pressure I have found little to no difference in CCI 200, Federal 210, WLRs and Remington 9 1/2s with cast bullet loads using powders from Bullseye up through H4831SC. As mentioned, with slower powders or medium to slow burning ball powders, the hotter magnum type primers might be best. I read and been told many times that primers of very low brisance such as large pistol primers can improve accuracy. Most often it goes something like this; “I was working up a HV load in my ’06 and fps the accuracy was 4 moa. When I switched to a “such or such” low brisance primer the accuracy went back to 2 moa.” Well there is some truth to that but I’ve found that most often the 4 moa load was above the RPM threshold and when switching to a low brisance primer the velocity/RPM dropped back down to within the RPM threshold. I’ve found that there can be as much a 200+ fps different with some powders, particularly with the slow burning powders, simply by changing primers. Thus primers can affect accuracy. However if a load is worked up with one primer and accuracy is good then by switching to another primer is there seldom an increase in accuracy. I use and always suggest to others that a good regular primer like the CCI, Federal, WLR or Remington will work quite well in the 6.5 Swede with most powders.

    Powder selection;
    Selecting an appropriate powder can be confusing. Many times the selection is made based simply on the powder(s) we have available on our shelf at the time. This many times works out fine if we have an appropriate powder available for the velocity range we are looking for and weight of cast bullet we have. With cast bullets of 120-130 gr and a velocity of upwards of 1400 fps Unique or a similar burning rate powder will work fine. For velocities up into 1600-1800 fps then the slow burning end of the pistol powders and the fast burning end of the rifle powders work very well. Here we find 2400, 4227, 5744, 4198 and 4759 to work well. If we want to shoot a cast bullet of this weight faster then the medium and slow burning powders are the ones to try. H4895, 3031, 4064, Varget, RL15, RL19, 4350 and H4831SC are the ones to try here. Slower burning powders and even some of these will reach case capacity before velocities get into truly high velocity for a 6.5 Swede. Another problem with slow burning powders is erratic ignition or pressures not getting high enough for consistent ignition. The 6.5 Swede cartridge is not one of large capacity so a balance must be reached between the weight of the cast bullet, the burning rate of the powder and consistent ignition. The use of magnum type primers may help a little here.

    With cast bullets of 140+ gr in weight the selection of powder to use is a bit different. For the low end loads the slow burning end of the pistol powders and the fast burning end of the rifle powders work best. Here very good accuracy can be had in the 1400 – 1600 fps range. If everything is done correctly then very good accuracy up through 1800 fps can be had with those

  6. #86
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Lake Havasu City, Arizona
    Posts
    21,305
    powders. However, most are finding the best success with the slower burning rifle powders that give a balance between loading density, velocity and consistent ignition.

    Bullet selection;
    If we are keeping the velocity of our selected cast bullet down in or under the RPM threshold then just about any quality mould of regular design will give decent accuracy. However if we are selecting a cast bullet for the 6.5 Swede at velocity/RPM above the RPM threshold then that requires some thought also. If we want the “best” accuracy out of our 6.5 Swede, even at velocity/RPM within the RPM threshold then the same requirement for thought applies. The selected cast bullet must fit. This “fit” must be from the bottom of the case neck, in the throat, against the leade and into the bore if the selected cast bullet has a bore riding nose. If we are pushing for best accuracy and high velocity/RPM then the GC must not extend into the case below the case neck. The base/shank of the cast bullet needs all of the support it can get during acceleration. It must not be allowed to bend, rivet or get gas cut. Also important is keeping the bottom of the GC square with the centerline of the bore. If the base gets crooked then the “launch” from the muzzle will not be even and inaccuracy adversely affected. We must keep the cast bullet centered and concentric and the best way to do that is to keep all of the bullet in the case neck and the chamber throat.

    Most milsurp 6.5 Swede’s have long throats. Most of these are at or slightly larger than groove diameter. The most accurate cast bullet is one that fills the throat length with the shoulder/front driving band slightly engraving on the leade. If the cast bullet has a bore riding nose then the nose should be a tight fit with some slight engraving of the nose by the lands. The basic idea here is to get maximum support of the entire cast bullet from the base to the ogive. This will allow for minimal bending and obturation during acceleration.

    Two commonly found bullet designs for the 6.5 are Lovern designs and bore riders with long noses. The common Lovern designs are Lyman’s 266455 and 266469. The common bore riders are Lyman’s 466673, RCBS 6.5-140-SILand Saeco’s #264. There is also a “Cruise Missile” design available as a special order from Lee. My experience with numerous of them has narrowed my choice down to 266455 which is a Lyman Lovern design. That design fits the case neck and throat of all 4 of my 6.5 Swedes perfectly and there is no bore riding nose to contend with. Cast of most alloys it runs from 125 -130 gr in weight with GC and lubed. It has provided me with the best accuracy across a broad spectrum of velocity in the fast twist Swede. Many find good accuracy with the other designs but most often it is in or below the RPM threshold. The Lyman Lovern design gives the best accuracy at higher velocities from the 6.5 Swede and also the same design gives the best accuracy in other calibers as well.

    Bullet Alloys;
    There are numerous schools of thought on this. Some like to use hard alloys and some like their alloys soft. Others like them of medium hardness in the 16-18 BHN range. I have found that best accuracy, especially at higher velocity is best achieved with an alloy that is ductile. In other words it is not brittle. If one is keeping velocities down in the 1400-1500 fps range in the Swede then an alloy of straight WWs usually suffices. I like to add 2% tin to the WWS. This changes the composition making the alloy a little more ductile and the bullets cast better with less rejections due to non fill out. My best accuracy alloy with cast bullets at high velocity not only
    Last edited by Larry Gibson; 09-06-2009 at 06:48 PM.

  7. #87
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Lake Havasu City, Arizona
    Posts
    21,305
    with the Swede but with other cartridges has been with an alloy of WWs + linotype at a mix of 60/40 or 70/30. This gives a BHN of 18-20 with air cooled bullets. They are ductile and hold up well to high acceleration and velocity. I have been using WWs + lead at a mix of 50/50 for a long time in higher velocity hunting cast bullet loads. I have found accuracy to be excellent for the first 5-7 shots out of a cold clean barrel. Problem is fouling quickly builds and then accuracy deteriorates. Thus such bullets cast of that soft alloy are not good for general shooting. Again a balance must be found here between the bullet being ductile instead of brittle, the alloy being able to withstand the acceleration at the velocity desired and the terminal impact requirements.

    I cast my 6.5 bullets in a single cavity mould. This gives the most consistent cast bullet. I then give them a visual inspection for non fill out or wrinkle with all defects causing rejection. For high velocity/RPM loads I then weight each bullet and reject all bullets not within a +/- .2 gr of the mean average of the lot. This means a larger rejection percentage of bullets but the accuracy results justify it.

    Bullet lubes;
    My experience based on numerous side by side tests of numerous bullet lubes at low, medium and high velocity, show that there is little difference between many lubes. Let me say also that there are some bad lubes out there both commercial ones and home concocted ones. The time to test a bullet at high velocity/RPM above the RPM threshold is not also the time to test a home concocted lube. Run the high velocity/RPM test with a known product and then test the home brewed concoction against that. There are numerous good commercial lubes that work at high velocity/RPM such as Javelina, XLOX 2500+, Carnauba Red, LBT Blue, LBT blue soft, and Orange Magic. There are probably others as well but those are the ones I have specifically tested and find them to work equally well. If you are using a bad lube and switch to a good one then a great improvement in accuracy can be had. However, I have found through meticulous tests at high velocity that if you are using a good lube to begin with and switch to another good lube then little to no improvement in accuracy is likely to occur with such high velocity/RPM loads.

    Gas Checks;
    We basically have 4 types of GCs to pick from. Hornady, Lyman (reputed to be made by Hornady), the GB GCs and the home made ones by various tools. Quite frankly I use all of them and they all give very accurate results if the velocity/RPM level is below the RPM threshold. However when we get above that threshold then some things must be considered. The GC for such loads must have a flat inside bottom for the shank of the cast bullet to seat squarely into. The GB GCs do not have flat inside bottoms and must be flattened with a well fitted punch. I find little difference between Hornady and Lyman GCs, perhaps because they are of the same make. Some anneal the GCs but I do not. I tried it several times and found no benefit in accuracy. One thing that is of benefit to accuracy is the need to seat the GC squarely on the bullet shank. I use several methods to do this but mostly seat GCs as separate step to ensure it is done right. A Lyman GC seater for the 450 Lubrasizer works for most of my needs.

    Sizing the cast bullets;
    Once the GC is properly seated I prefer to size the bullet in a push through sizer if the bullet is to be sized .001 or more. This also crimps the GC on. A light coat of spray case lube on the cast

  8. #88
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Lake Havasu City, Arizona
    Posts
    21,305
    bullets prior to this initial sizing makes them size easily. I like to size the bullets in the push through to the same size as the H die in the 450 Lubrasizer so that there is no bending or distortion of the bullet when run through the 450 for lubing. When lubing the bullets in the 450 I run the bullets into the H die twice to ensure the lube fills all of the lube grooves completely.

    I have 4 milsurp 6.5 Swedes. They all have throats of .266-267” diameters. I size the 266455s at .266”. If they are ..0005” over that then the bullets will be pushed back into the case when the round is chambered. Cast bullets for the 6.5 Swede really need to be sized to that close of a fit in the long throat of the Swede for the best accuracy, particularly at the higher velocity/RPM.

    Seating the bullets;
    I’ve used several 6.5 Swede seating dies over the years and they all work fine with .264 diameter bullets. However most of them don’t work well with .266 or larger cast bullets and most often the larger cast bullet sticks in the seating die and does not seat properly. The seating die can be honed out to allow the larger bullet but this might cause alignment problems with jacketed bullets (yes I do still use them). My solution was a simple one. I use a 7x57 seating die. I thought I might have some concentricity problems but given the neck sizing method I use to adjust neck tension and the long taper neck reaming the 6.5 cast bullets seat straight in the 7x57 die.

    Testing;
    Testing should be done from a solid bench rest using proven shooting techniques. Testing should be initially done at 100 yards with additional test at 200 yards. Your accuracy goal for cast bullets should be the same as the rifle is capable of with good Jacketed bullet loads. Shoot 5 five shot groups with the quality jacketed loads. If the best group is 1.5” then that is good but not your goal. If the average group size is 2” then that still is not your goal. If the largest group was 2.5” then that is your goal; to shoot consistent 5 shot groups with cast bullet groups of 2.5” or smaller at 100 yards. You and your rifle may shoot better than that as I was just giving an example, not your actual goal. The point is the smallest group is not the accuracy potential of your rifle and neither is ther average group size. The largest group is the accuracy potential be cause you never know when you will shoot that size of group. You can say; “I going to shoot the smallest group now.” Nor can you say; “ now I’ll shoot an average size group.” You just shoot the best you can and the group will be what it is. This is because 25 shots (the aggregate of the 5 five shot groups) going into a 2.5” group is indicative of the accuracy potential of that rifle with that ammunition with you shooting it.

    Work up loads in 5 shot groups initially and then switch to 10 shot groups when things look good. If things are really looking good with a particular load then shoot 5 five shot groups of that load or 3 ten shot groups. Either of those tests will show if the load is consistent. If the load is consistent and is at or above the RPM threshold (140,000 RPM) then I suggest a 10 shot group at 200 yards. If the load is indeed good then the group size will be closely linear in size to the 100 yard group size. For example if the 100 yard group is 2” and the 200 yard group is 4- 4.5” then all is well. However if the 200 yard group size is not linear (say it is 8-10”) to the 100 yard group size then the bullets are unbalanced during acceleration and the RPM is causing the attendant inaccuracy.


    Conclusion;
    Using the above techniques I have loaded very accurate cast bullets loads in numerous milsurp 6.5 Swede rifles. There are other techniques that perhaps work as well. There is no secret to my technique as all of the information is available in Lyman’s Cast Bullet Handbook, the NRA Cast bullet supplements and numerous other publications. I do not go out in my garage in the dark of the night during the witching hour and brew up anything. No secrets, no myths, no old wife’s tales and no witch craft. There is just good loading technique coupled with an understanding of internal and external ballistics. Anyone with some experience reloading and casting bullets should be able to do what I have done. Keep in mind that the 6.5 Swede is a difficult cartridge to load cast bullets for simply because many load them at too fast a velocity. The fast twist (1 turn in 7.5”) results in extreme RPMs as the velocity increases. Unless all is done correctly in the casting and loading getting accurate loads above the RPM threshold can and is difficult. I have gotten very good accuracy up through 1800-1900 fps out of a couple 6.5 Swedes. However I have not been successful with a consistently accurate load over 2000 fps. Several loads held the promise of a young girls good night kiss but then her dad opened door, i.e. I was not able to consistently duplicate any consistantly accuracy load above 2000 fps. When a couple promissing loads were tested at 200 yards the groups went from 2" or so at 100 yards to 12-20" groups at 200 yards. Hardly linear by anyone's stretch of the imagination. I very seldom could even reproduce the 2" group at 100 yards. Velocities here are 2000 - 2200 fps. This is not to say that I will stop trying.

    Larry Gibson
    Last edited by Larry Gibson; 09-06-2009 at 12:59 PM.

  9. #89
    Banned
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    8,099
    Very well done Larry. You need to go back and edit the part where you said you sized your bullets to .466. I believe you meant .266.

    The part about using 30-06 brass is very good. Takes up all the slack in the neck portion of the chamber and more centers the bullet to the bore then the thin brass. The factory Norma brass for my "secret rifle" is drastically under sized. It's great brass other wise. To give an idea of how much I too use the Scotch tape wrapped around the head on the first firing to center the case. I can get almost three wraps of tape and still chamber the case. No, it's not my chamber, I've had three different chambers and they were all the same size...it's the brass. Another thing wrong with the Norma brass is that the necks are thin. To give you an idea of that when sizing them in a regular full length sizer the expander ball doesn't even drag through the neck one iota. So, as you, I have resorted to differente caliber brass worked down to fit. Mine required and extensive swaging of the head. I built tools for that.

    I don't have any of these problems in my 6.5 Grendel. I had a choice of chamber neck diameter and chose the smaller one. For that rifle I have the Redding neck bushing die. Those bushing dies are great. My case fit to the chamber is so close I don't neck size the 6.5 Grendels and besides, as you know, they are fired out of an AR15 so just neck sizing might give some feeding problems. The "secret rifle" does get neck sized only.

    Your write up was very good. I especially agree with the primer selection and that unless you are a full hilt competition bench shooter you aren't going to notice much difference in primer selection. There will be exceptions. It boils down to about the same thing that if you do all the benchrest trick in reloading for a sporting hunting rifle you won't notice the benefit as much if the rifle were a competition bench rifle.

    There's still more that can be done to insure HV accurate shooting.

    Joe

  10. #90
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Lake Havasu City, Arizona
    Posts
    21,305
    StarMeta

    Very well done Larry. You need to go back and edit the part where you said you sized your bullets to .466. I believe you meant .266.

    Yes, I did mean ".266". It is edited, thank you.


    Larry Gibson

  11. #91
    Le Loup Solitaire
    Guest

    Loading the 6.5 Swedish Mauser.

    Congrats as this writeup is the best I have seen on the 6.5. it should be placed among the classic articles done by other forum members. It is a good star to steer by. LLS

  12. #92
    Boolit Grand Master


    swheeler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    5,471
    Larry; very good post, but I have to wonder what a M36 Swede is, I own a M96 and have owned two M38's but have to admit I have never heard of a M36? Scot
    Charter Member #148

  13. #93
    Boolit Buddy O.S.O.K.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Deep in the heart of Texas
    Posts
    282
    Thank you Larry. Very informative and not one mention of rice paper
    Endowment Life Member NRA
    Life Member NAHC
    Journeyman WECSOG'er

  14. #94
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Lake Havasu City, Arizona
    Posts
    21,305
    Quote Originally Posted by swheeler View Post
    Larry; very good post, but I have to wonder what a M36 Swede is, I own a M96 and have owned two M38's but have to admit I have never heard of a M36? Scot
    Right you are...another edit. Thanks.

    Larry Gibson

  15. #95
    Boolit Master crabo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    D/FW
    Posts
    3,141
    Larry, your series of posts should be made a sticky. There is a lot of very clear information on how you do it here. Thank you for taking the time to write it.
    Crabo

    Do not argue with idiots. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

  16. #96
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Lake Havasu City, Arizona
    Posts
    21,305
    Quote Originally Posted by crabo View Post
    Larry, your series of posts should be made a sticky. There is a lot of very clear information on how you do it here. Thank you for taking the time to write it.
    Never made a sticky before, how's it done?

    I appreciate the comments.

    Larry Gibson

  17. #97
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

    waksupi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Somers, Montana, a quaint little drinking village,with a severe hunting and fishing problem.
    Posts
    19,340
    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Gibson View Post
    Never made a sticky before, how's it done?

    I appreciate the comments.

    Larry Gibson
    Larry, I think the best thing or your post,would be for you to contact Wiljen, and see if it could be placed as an article on Castpics. Too good a summary to just sit as a sticky.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  18. #98
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Lake Havasu City, Arizona
    Posts
    21,305
    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    Larry, I think the best thing or your post,would be for you to contact Wiljen, and see if it could be placed as an article on Castpics. Too good a summary to just sit as a sticky.
    I have PM'd him regards doing that. Thanks

    Larry Gibson

  19. #99
    Boolit Grand Master 303Guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    9,078
    Wow! Thanks for the 'article' Larry. Great information and very interesting.

    You might consider submitting it for publication in a gun magazine.
    Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)

    ''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''

  20. #100
    Banned

    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    714
    O.S.O.K.

    Some of the posts in this thread with all the master teacher stuff and special secrets are enough to gag a maggot. Just shoot the thing down in the 1600 fps range and you won't have any trouble and it'll shoot. From reading your posts it's obvious you know what you're doing you're just trying to shoot it too fast. I really don't understand the big deal behind shooting a Swede fast anyway. At 1600 it'll shoot good and drill right through anything you shoot it at. In my opinion it's too small to be used for any larger game with cast and there's enough good jacketed bullets that'll do that for you if that's your intent.
    Last edited by Pat I.; 09-07-2009 at 10:55 AM.

Page 5 of 15 FirstFirst 1234567891011121314 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check