RotoMetals2Lee PrecisionReloading EverythingSnyders Jerky
Inline FabricationLoad DataWidenersTitan Reloading
Repackbox MidSouth Shooters Supply
Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Good alloy for 44?

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Manassas, Va
    Posts
    33

    Good alloy for 44?

    I have 74lbs of xray shielding (assuming pure or nearly pure lead) and am driving myself batty trying to decide the best mix to alloy.

    I'm going to cast 250gr SWC using an RCBS 44-250k mould. The bullets will be used in the 1000-1200 range (might push them a bit faster, but not more than 1400), mainly for target/plinking, but maybe for deer hunting as I get more comfortable with the casting process. Lube will be BAC or Carnauba Red.

    I'm buying Super Hard alloy and tin from Rotometals and trying to keep it as close to $100 as possible.

    I thought about going with 2/6/92, but that seems a tad hard even when air cooled. I thought about reducing the SH Alloy and increasing the pure lead to get something close to 1.9/5/93.1. That would give me a couple more pounds of material for the same price.

    Would 1.9/5/93.1 make a good all purpose bullet when air cooled?

    Chris

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1,185
    You could even reduce it some more. Otherwise, yes, that will work wonderfully.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    499
    How's 16-1, lead to tin? IIRC, Elmer Keith used this or maybe 20-1 whilst developing the 44 Mag...
    Tim sends

  4. #4
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Manassas, Va
    Posts
    33
    Quote Originally Posted by outdoorfan View Post
    You could even reduce it some more. Otherwise, yes, that will work wonderfully.
    Both the tin and the antimony or just one of the two metals?

    Will the 1.9/5/93.1 mix heat treat well if I need a harder bullet? That's what I'm looking for, a bullet that air hardens to a medium BHN (low to mid teens), but can be heat treated or water dropped to get somewhat harder for special applications.

    Chris

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1,185
    My understanding is that you need arsenic (only a trace of it) in the alloy in order to effectively heat treat it. I tried HT'ing linotype once, and it didn't work. Plain old ww's have the arsenic in them. Lead shot is a good source of arsenic, if you want to add some in separately.

    The other thing to remember is not to have more tin than antimony in an alloy you want to heat treat. 1.9% tin is just about right for good mold fillout. You could probably even reduce that to 1%. I primarily use an alloy of 2/1 ww/soft lead that has only about 2% antimony in it. I can heat threat it all the way up to 25 bhn or so. If I were you, I would settle into about 1/3/96. But, once again, you will need some arsenic in that to heat treat it.

  6. #6
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Manassas, Va
    Posts
    33
    Cool. Thanks!

    Chris

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check