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Thread: Kroil in the mould - I did it, it works!

  1. #81
    Super Moderator & Official Cast Boolits Sketch Artist


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    No PB Blaster will not do the same dont use it bud. Been told not to use it on you guns either not sure why. Get some Kroil or try the marvel mystery oil I have not tried it on my mold but alot closer to kroil in smell and looks.
    Reloading to save money I am sure the saving is going to start soon

  2. #82
    Boolit Buddy Jech's Avatar
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    ((Removed by poster, posted in the wrong forum >_<))
    Last edited by Jech; 11-20-2010 at 04:19 PM.

  3. #83
    Super Moderator & Official Cast Boolits Sketch Artist


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    kroil is not used like bulllube if your going to try oil get the TCW 3 or 4 boat oil not weed wacker oil and try that.
    Reloading to save money I am sure the saving is going to start soon

  4. #84
    Boolit Master
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    Here is the KANO Lab site. I haven't heard of anything else that acts like Kroil for molds. They offer buy one (11 oz aerosol), get one free. The freebe can be one their other dozen or so products, or another can of Kroil.

    http://www.kanolabs.com/
    Plata o plomo?
    Plomo, por favor!

  5. #85
    Boolit Buddy Jech's Avatar
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    Gonna give this Marvel Mystery Oil a shot while my order processes/ships...should be interesting

  6. #86
    Boolit Master
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    It won't be a mystery to you for long... just for us. Be sure to let us know how it goes.
    Plata o plomo?
    Plomo, por favor!

  7. #87
    Boolit Master

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    guys you dont need to be a company to order their Ph no is 1866 598 9415---ask for the free offer--- and as ricky posted that is web -- its free if you want to try but you will like it cost is $8.50 for big can onec you try it and find out it works they will send you special offers . while your at it get a small [pint] of EXRUST it is the best stuff to clean the rust off molds it dont eat metal just the rust

  8. #88
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    Kano "Micro oil" is some awesome light machine oil...gun oil.
    BUT, ya Gotta buy a quart...a lifetime supply, comes with a needle oiler.
    Jon
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  9. #89
    Boolit Buddy Jech's Avatar
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    Just wrapped up a casting session trying out the Marvel Mystery Oil. I dabbed a bit into each cavity and on the block face then brought it up to temp on the hotplate. I waited a bit for the excess to burn off and started pouring...after 15 or so drops, the boolits looked as terrible as the first day I tried casting. Wrinkles, frosting, random pockets, everything bad was there. The only exception was that the boolits were practically jumping out of cavities that took a few raps on the hinge pin before. Did I miss something in the application process?

  10. #90
    Boolit Buddy
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    With Kroil, I believe you wipe the cavities before casting to dry them - I've not tried it yet but there's a description on the first page of the thread. Not sure if MMO will work the same way, more of it may stay in the cavities than kroil .... Still. MMO is handy for alot of other stuff so it's good to have around the shop.

    Pat
    Last edited by Outdoors; 11-23-2010 at 03:09 PM.

  11. #91
    Super Moderator & Official Cast Boolits Sketch Artist


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    If I use kroil on a mould while iam casting and the mould is hot I spray some right in cavs and blocks smokes like crazy and I keep casting next one or two cast boolits are junk . After that their back to normal and dropping better. I think from reading some of the post you guys are trying to do the wrong thing with it. What you need is some bullplate or something else others are useing. With that stuff you keep out of cav and put on hinges pins spuce plate.
    Reloading to save money I am sure the saving is going to start soon

  12. #92
    Boolit Master

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    guys you sray or wipe what ever I spray mine and let it drip off. wipe the wet off Qtip inside cavity. bring to temp. you will loose about 10 or so depends on size of mold. a 22 will take 25 a 45 will run about 10 befoer it gets set . cast around 50 and open mold while HOT and spray inside let it smoke dry. about 5 casts and will drop fine . when done spray till wet and close mold and let cool. put in storage {air tight} next time you cast wet mold again and wipe it off heat and start casting
    I have yet to see a bad bullet after mold gets to temp. most all will drop at opening or a very light tap.
    Never wash it only use the Kroil to clean. after you get mold seasoned you dont need any lube for plate lead will not stick
    I run 200 this morning on a 270 mold took 10 drops to get to temp and everyone fell out
    It works if you dont beleive it send me your mold that wont cast it will when I send it back

  13. #93
    Boolit Master

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    Here's what has worked well for me on both aluminum and iron molds.

    Mold on the hotplate while the pot starts to melt.

    Wet one end of the Q-Tip with a drop or two of Kroil on it.

    After the mold is warm, swab both cavities with the wet end of the Q-Tip. Then swab with the dry end.

    Start casting.

    Only the first couple of bullets are sub-par. After a hundred or so bullets (or if they start getting a little sticky), swab each cavity again with the still wet Q-Tip, No need to add more Kroil to the Q-Tip at this point or swab it out with the dry end.

    Keep casting.

    Seldom need another application after this last light one.

    When you finish casting, swab the cavities one more time with the wet end of the Q-Tip and you are ready for the next session.

    Good luck. Kroil has made my already good molds even better.

  14. #94
    Super Moderator & Official Cast Boolits Sketch Artist


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    I like those last to tips I was just using more as a cleaner that helped the boolits fall free got to try the Q tips and the seasoning trick.
    Reloading to save money I am sure the saving is going to start soon

  15. #95
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    you can order direct from the factory. they have special deals most of the time. check online. I have never seen anything that is as good as kroil.

  16. #96
    Boolit Master

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    the reason to soak the whole mold it to "season " it like a cast iron skillett.
    all fo you have seen the vent lines get lead in them. they wont anymore after the mold gets seasoned you dont need any lube on the plate that sometimes may get in cav
    the reason I say put in air tight bag it it dont let the kroil dry and other thing Kroil will not prevent rust

  17. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricky P View Post
    If I use kroil on a mould while iam casting and the mould is hot I spray some right in cavs and blocks smokes like crazy and I keep casting next one or two cast boolits are junk . After that their back to normal and dropping better. I think from reading some of the post you guys are trying to do the wrong thing with it. What you need is some bullplate or something else others are useing. With that stuff you keep out of cav and put on hinges pins spuce plate.
    Thats just how I use the Marvel oil
    I apply it with a Q-Tip and then use the other side so just a little is left in the cavities. if not the first 2-3 are messed up.
    Not really a big deal as the first 2-3 can just be tossed back into the pot

  18. #98
    Boolit Mold
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    I'm gonna try it.

  19. #99
    Boolit Bub johnny_xring's Avatar
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    I am also going to try it. Who'duh thunk? Back about late 90's the rage of moly coated (Jword) bullets was going on for the High Power Rifle shooters. Recommended technique was to make your own coated bullets by a complicated process (or buy them $$$) but you cleaned the bore with Kroil patches followed by 2-3 dry patches. The moly seasoned bore remained intact and it was supposed to enhance accuracy, barrel life, etc., etc. This was my first exposure to Kroil--awesome for cleaning the bores.

    Got some new Sharpshooter USA molds (aluminum) earlier this week this that I might try this on. I will try to report back on the progress.

  20. #100
    Boolit Buddy Rompin Ruger's Avatar
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    Been lurking and finally signed up....thought you guys were talking in some sort of secret code about Kroil ...till found this.

    Did a good bit of casting back in 90's and put stuff away... back now and going to go full guns shortly still assembling stuff, but have to check out this NAPA connection for this stuff...on fixed income, the prices of the S&H for a lot of stuff keeps me on the ropes!

    Thanks for allowing a nummie like me to read and learn.

    Gotta admit, at this stage, I read, read, read some more and my post count just won't go up... don't know enough to even try to post...but this one compelled me to try!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check