Sharps lever tension spring

[wonderwolf]

Had a bit of an embarrassing moment today, Was showing off my Pedersoli Sharps Long range express and the lever tension spring broke (the spring that causes the action to snap shut and stay shut). Anybody see this happen before? I'm sure my rapid firing I've done from time to time did not help it. Does not look like it will be a expensive fix but I'm not happy about it either way. Not a good start to the month

Track of the wolf has them for $14

[Don McDowell]

Get two so when you get the broken one replaced you have a spare ready for the next time. Don't drop the lever so hard you won't have as much breakage, but thats just one of the things a sharps shooter needs extra in his gear bag, along with a couple extra firing pins.

[cajun shooter]

VTI is a good source for parts.

[wonderwolf]

WOW VTI does have a lot of parts but they don't seem too consistent on pricing The spring tension lever for the 1874 Is $24 and the same thing for the Quigley rifle is $29? The other spaghetti brand is $8

[cajun shooter]

Wonderwolf, don't you know that the rifle with the Quigley name cost more to make. Don't try to order a firing pin kit from them at this time. They are on BO and Pedersoli is on vacation for the month of August.

[montana_charlie]

WOW VTI does have a lot of parts but they don't seem too consistent on pricing The spring tension lever for the 1874 Is $24 and the same thing for the Quigley rifle is $29? The other spaghetti brand is $8

I assume you need a new spring for a Pedersoli rifle, but you didn't actually say that. I have no reason to believe they are absolutely interchangeable between brands...

The Quigley rifle has a heavier barrel. That places the mounting point for the lever spring at a different point, which increases tension on the spring. In the past, Pedersoli used a single spring in all of their Sharps rifles, but they may have changed the configuration (or temper) on the one for the Quigley (and their other heavy barrel rifles).
That may account for the cost difference.

In any case, you can back off the screw that attaches the spring to the block on the bottom of the barrel. This will lessen the tension on the spring...making breakage a more remote possibility.

My screw is just tight enough that the lever is held firmly against the trigger bar when the action is closed. When the breech is open, there is no tension on the spring at all. This also makes field stripping easier as it's not necessary to fight spring tension when removing (or inserting) the take-down pin.

A little (weak grade) Loctite keeps the screw where I set it.

CM

[wonderwolf]

Yes I need a new spring, My long range express has a heavy Octagonal barrel soooo do I need to get a different spring then?

[montana_charlie]

My long range express has a heavy Octagonal barrel soooo do I need to get a different spring then?

Is that a Pedersoli "Long Range Express"? I don't believe Pedersoli uses that for a 'model name' on any of their Sharps rifles...but Shiloh does.
Pedersoli builds a model called the "Long Range" but it has a half octagonal/half round barrel.

The Pedersoli rifles with 'heavy barrels' are the Quigley, Boss, Buffalo, and the Competition models.

If you have the Pedersoli Sharps "Long Range", I would buy the 'Quigley' spring if the rifle actually has the 'heavy barrel' contour in the octagonal portion.

If you have a Shiloh 'Long Range Express' you should contact Shiloh for replacement parts.

CM

[waksupi]

After having broken several over the years, I started making my own. If you have some decent steel, and a torch or forge, they are probably the simplest spring you can make.

[wonderwolf]

Got the stuff to do it but its 100 miles away right now.

[wonderwolf]

I guess Pedersoli calls them just "long range" then...I didn't think it really mattered. The one they offer now doesn't have the same forearm as mine but I know that doesn't make a dif.

[1874Sharps]

Wonderwolf,

I have had the lever spring and the firing pin break on me in my Pedersoli Sharps over the last five years and over a thousand rounds of shooting. The lever springs are flat springs and much more prone to breakage compared to coil springs. Also, a gunsmith that has over 60 years of experience (yes, he started young and is pretty old now) told me that he has seen alot of the Italian made guns with springs that were on the brittle side. It is indeed a good idea to have a spare lever spring and firing pin. If your accuracy suddenly goes to pot, check your firing pin, as the rifle will often still shoot (though not well) with a broken firing pin. That happened to me as well (and Mike Venturino talks about it also in his book on shooting buffalo rifles). I will tell you, though, the 1874 Sharps has become my favorite rifle. I can only guess that the other rifles have become quite jealous by now, as that is usually the one that goes to the range with me.

[cajun shooter]

Wonderwolf, I have the heavy barrel that is 34in long on the Competition model. I did with mine the exact thing that MC posted. The spring is flat for a ways then has the curve in it. It looks like a thick spring (I didn't mike it) that should take some abuse but I'm no metal expert. What I'm getting at is if the springs would all fit then order the heavy one when you do. My spring was very heavy and in stock form would slam against the receiver block if I didn't hold it back. I put some 242 blue lock tite on it and reset it to a lighter setting

[cajun shooter]

I went to the VTI site and it's strange that the Quigley lever spring and the standard lever spring have the same part number. The difference being when you check out you pay $5.00 more for the Quigley. Just as you said Wonderwolf, $29.00 vs $24.00. Strange indeed. I guess there is no difference. Maybe someone who has one of the other makes could tell us if all models take the same spring on that brand of rifle.

[montana_charlie]

I went to the VTI site and it's strange that the Quigley lever spring and the standard lever spring have the same part number.

I can't explain the price difference, but I'd bet my last dime that if the part numbers are the same...the springs are identical.

That being true, you DEFINITELY want to loosen the mounting screw on any of the heavy contour models...and it even makes those with standard barrel weight more 'friendly'.

CM

[wonderwolf]

Before the spring broke I had never removed the forearm to see what kind of spring it was and didn't even think about backing out the screw to help with things...Ever since I learned my lesson on not backing out set screws on the main springs of S&W revolvers I've been leery of doing it to other guns. The Sharps was quite snappy and with the set triggers it was hard to close it and not pinch your fingers. Thanks for the advice, i'll probably order from track of the wolf because they have some blade front sights I want to put on the sharps and my 50-140 project.

[cajun shooter]

Wonderwolf, I went to 5 S&W armorer schools and we had a problem with our officers doing that very thing. What happens is once the screw is broken loose it contiues to back out. When you have a stock S&W strain screw, it will have a rounded tip that is easy to lighten. Grind the tip down and then install it tight using 242. Light double action and no fear of coming loose. The rebound spring has 15 coils. The factory would allow us to cut it back to 13 to help with the action.