Stripped Hex Heads

[Scrounger]

Have a scope mount with hex-head screws and the heads are stripped. I don't have a drill press and I'm not real good at holding steady enough to drill them out. Applying much heat or cold isn't practical, either. Anyone have another way? Why didn't they invent screw heads with square or triangular slots? They would have been much stronger and almost impossible to strip...

[grumble]

I had a similar problem where I couldn't cut a slot for a regular screwdriver. I ended up epoxing an allen wrench in the stripped out hole. 24 hours later, it took the stripped out screw right out.

In less serious situations, I've taken the next bigger size allen wrench, filed the end slightly to taper it, and hammered into the stripped out head.

Lotsa luck!

[StarMetal]

Art

They do have screws with square and/or triangle heads...they are used most in furniture. The reason is to work better with power tools, not to piss us off.

Alot of folks don't know that the proper use of an allen wrench when tightening a screw is to only grasp the short leg of the "L" to torque, but most, like me, use the long leg to really get it tight.

Grumbles suggestions were very good, I can't think of a better way.

Joe

[slughammer]

Along grumbles idea, smash a metric hex key into the socket with a hammer.

But first, did you put the screws in? Are they loc-tited? Better put a soldering iron to each one to help break that loc-tite bond. If that Green (bearing retainer) loc-tite was used, you're screwed without heat...

[Scrounger]

I didn't put them in so I don't know what was used, Loctite I'm guessing. I quit using that stuff 20 years ago, first time I came across scope screws loctited in. There is no need for that. Thank you for your suggestions. I actually thought of some of those myself but I haven't tried them yet. I was hoping someone had some magic words that do the job, like "Open, Sesame". Works for Bugs Bunny.

[StarMetal]

Art

They said Acetone softens Loctite, but I never had luck with. I just heat the shaft of the screwdriver and the heat transferred softens the Loctite.

You're right, never Loctite the ring screws, but it's ok and a good idea to Loctite the base screws.

Joe

[shooter575]

Scrounger Couple extra tricks that may[or not] help. Cutting back allen wrenches a 1/16 or so to get fresh corners. It is like having a new wrench.I use a dremel cut off wheel.Along with the heat,apply some cold.I use a aerosol can of chewing gum remover.It will freeze the gum so it must get below zero F. A Co2 fire ex does the same but it is awkward on the bench

[carpetman]

Scrounger---Magic wont work on those screws. Somebody put a hex on them.

[swheeler]

Scrounger; the drive in type of easy-out should work fine, if you can find the right size.
Scooter

[No_1]

Scrounger Couple extra tricks that may[or not] help. Cutting back allen wrenches a 1/16 or so to get fresh corners. It is like having a new wrench.I use a dremel cut off wheel.Along with the heat,apply some cold.I use a aerosol can of chewing gum remover.It will freeze the gum so it must get below zero F. A Co2 fire ex does the same but it is awkward on the bench

I would also try to use a small flat punch. Place the punch square on top of the offending screw. Tap (with force) it a bunch of times with a hammer. This usually mashes the head down closing the hex hole back up. You must be careful as the flatening of the head makes the OD of it swell also. This in conjunction with cutting the wrench back to get a clean heax should work. Once you have it closed up enough that the wrench will not go in it, drive the wrench in and turn it out. I have done this many times with stripped socket head cap screws. When they are big enough I use the round side of a ball peen hammer placed directly on the head then hit that hammer very hard with another hammer. Remember to ALWAYS use safety glasses.

[Bret4207]

Been through this a zillion times. Follow the adice on a new or cut back allen wrench. Heat with a soldering iron, but make sure there's at least a wet apppreance to the iron tip or the heat won't transfer well. Grind the tip of a small punch down to fit INSIDE the hex head and tap it good and hard several times and try and back the screw out. Repeat if needed. Try backing out hot and cold. If all else fails because the hex socket is too buggered yp, gring a flat bladed screw driver down to just a bit bigger than the hex socket and hammer it in. You'll lose the screw but I've never had one not back out.

One other idea- If you have a set of Torx bits, try and find one that almost fits the socket and drive that in. Mine are 1/4" drive and they work almost like an E-Z out, only better.

[wills]

Scrounger; the drive in type of easy-out should work fine, if you can find the right size.
Scooter

Please excuse my ignorance, but what is an easy – out?

[carpetman]

Wills--An easy out has coarse--read a spiral, left hand threads. You drill hole and insert it into the hole. As you turn in the direction that would loosen the stuck screw,it will be tightening the easy out---it will be threading in. It gives a head you can get a hold on when the the stuck bolts head is not usable.

[wills]

Thanks

[swheeler]

Wills: an easy-out is a tool used to remove a "dutchman"(broken off, twisted off cap screw. Easy outs come in 2 styles SCREW IN AND DRIVE IN, Scounger needs to use a flat bottom drive in style- it is a tapered square with a small cut down each side, its made from hardened steel and has a flat or square for driving, just tap it to the biottom of the allen head and turn. The screw in type has never worked for me in a shallow hole.
Scooter

[fatnhappy]

I'm surprised nobody told you the Torx bit trick until trooper bret.
It works great, and I'm afraid it's probably your only alternative with those small allen heads. Because torx bits are tapered you can get a real snug fit in an allen head before trying to twist it out. Don't be afraid to rap the hell out of it with a ball peen hammer before you twist it. Some versions of loctite are designed to release when you strike them, and the best chance to break the bolt free is with the first try.

Using the "hot wrench" is probably smart too. Heating and cooling the bolt causes it (and the corresponding tap hole) to expand and contracting slightly, breaking the thread to thread seal. It works particularly well if you hit it with a good penetrating oil while it's hot. I believe the soldering iron is very good idea, I've tried a hot wrench on a rifle before so a little caution seems prudent.

[Newtire]

I'll 3rd the torx-bit technique along with getting one of those mini soldering torches (Radio Shack) to heat the screw. Another trick is to give it a little shock with the handle of another screwdriver too. Put Torx screws back in. make sure the holes are clean of dirt before you try & take them out when they are new.

[David R]

Get a left hand bit and drill the head of the screw. If the bit chatches on the screw, it will back it out right away. If it doesn't drill the head all the way off and take out the stub with a small pair of vice grips.
The glory of an allen screw is you can't miss the center of the screw.

If its a bigger bolt like on a car, or tractor, I just weld a nut to it.


They also make a tapered easy out with a FLAT bottom. These usually come in sets and work wonderful. Real short easy out with a hex drive. Find them in auto parts stores. The long tapered ones will do you no good in such a short screw head. They come in many sizes.