Graf & SonsBallisti-CastStainLess Steel MediaRotoMetals2Titan ReloadingLee Precision
Results 1 to 19 of 19

Thread: New to shotshell loading - need help

  1. #1
    Boolit Master JIMinPHX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Moving back east now
    Posts
    7,110

    New to shotshell loading - need help

    Hi guys,
    I've been loading rifle & pistol rounds for many years, but I never really got around to doing much with shotshells, except for a dozen or so .410 shells that I did as an experiment once on homemade equipment. Basically, I know almost nothing about shotshell loading.

    I have a 20ga Lee Loader now & I just found a bunch of Remington 20-gage "sport load" 2-3/4" hulls out in the dessert a few weeks ago (8-point). I was hoping that someone might be able to help me out with a recipe for loading these things up. I have Unique powder kicking around, but I don't mind buying something else if I need to. I've seen CCI primers in stock locally lately. Other brands are hard for me to get at the moment. I've seen Claybuster & Winchester brand wads in stock at a local store. I have lots of recovered shot laying around that I would like to try, or I have a little bit of #9 that is brand new, I could also use. I don't need a high tec skeet load. I just need something that would be safe to fire. I just want to load up one or two boxes to sort of get my feet wet & get the hang of it.

    Can anyone help me out with a little basic info?

    Thanks,
    Jim
    Last edited by JIMinPHX; 06-21-2009 at 08:40 PM. Reason: edit = corrected shell length
    “an armed society is a polite society.”
    Robert A. Heinlein

    "Idque apud imperitos humanitas vocabatur, cum pars servitutis esset."
    Publius Tacitus

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


    Johnch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    NW Ohio
    Posts
    3,000
    Pulled from Remington's website
    Sport Loads

    Available in both 12- and 20-gauge Remington Sport Loads are an economical, multi-purpose utility load for a variety of shotgunning needs. Loaded with our premium Power Piston wads, No. 8 shot, and plastic Unibody hulls, these shells perform effectively for skeet, trap and sporting clays, as well as quail, doves, and woodcock.


    I see Alliant droped the data for that hull off their online load data
    Go to Alliants website
    http://www.alliantpowder.com/questions/default.aspx

    Fill out the form and ask then

    John
    Yea, thou I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil; for thou art with me; Thy rod and thy staff, they comfort me.
    And I carry a SIG

  3. #3
    Frosted Boolits
    IllinoisCoyoteHunter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Edwardsville, IL
    Posts
    595
    follow manuals to a "t". it is not like metallic. No experimenting should be done. You must have the right hull, wad, powder, primer combo. Claybuster wads are knockoffs of the more expensive factory wads....and shoot the EXACT same. Try the Lyman manual, 5th edition....it is a great manual. also look on powder manufacturers websites for even more load data not in the manual. The lyman manual is great for beginners. Good luck!

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    4114.27 yards North of the PRK.
    Posts
    952
    Unique is dandy for the 20 ga. in 3/4 to 7/8 oz. loads. I routinely use 16 gr. Unique for most any 7/8 oz. load in Remington unibody or rxp hulls and either WAA20 or Rem RXP wads or generic equivalents. Depending on primer used this could be kicked up a half grain but I don't. Comes right down to it, given proper fit of the combo, you could prob'ly put 16 gr. Unique behind most any wad in most any modern plastic hull and most any primer and be safe with 7/8 oz. loads. Regards, Woody
    ---------------------------
    Take a kid along.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master JIMinPHX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Moving back east now
    Posts
    7,110
    Thank you for replying guys!

    I sent the e-mail to Alliant yesterday, like Johnch suggested. We'll see how that pans out.

    It appears to me that ICH & Woody have a difference of opinion. ICH is saying the same thing that a guy at a local shop said to me, that you have to follow a recipe EXACTLY, with zero deviation. Woody is telling me more of what I had wanted to hear, that 7/8 shot with a random wad, random primer & 16 grains of Unique is OK. Can I get opinions from anyone else about which of these perspectives is more likely correct? Or better yet, back to my original question, Does anyone have any recipes for the sport load hulls?

    Thanks,
    Jim
    “an armed society is a polite society.”
    Robert A. Heinlein

    "Idque apud imperitos humanitas vocabatur, cum pars servitutis esset."
    Publius Tacitus

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    marengo,ohio
    Posts
    1,101
    Jim, After you get going you might want to get some better hulls. The economy loads from
    all the big names you see at wally world the hulls are pretty cheap. They'll work but don't last
    long. They don't use brass and metal they use does'nt size well. Lymans shotshell manual should have all the info you need. FB

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    4114.27 yards North of the PRK.
    Posts
    952

    Unibody Hull Recipes

    Sportload Hulls being Unibodies......From AlliantReloaders Guide 1995 edition:
    7/8 oz. 1200 fps Primer Rem 209, Wad rem. RXP or WAA20 16.5 gr. Unique
    Fed 209 primer, Wad Rem. RXP20 16.0 gr. Unique
    CCI 209M primer, Rem RXP20 wad, 16.5 gr. Unique
    Book answer is to follow the recipes.
    Regards, Woody
    ---------------------------
    Take a kid along.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master JIMinPHX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Moving back east now
    Posts
    7,110
    Thanks again Woody,
    I'll find a combination of components that falls into one of those those parameter sets.

    Firebricker,
    I'm not planning on using these things a bunch of times. I just found a bunch of hulls for free out in the dessert & thought that I would take a crack at seeing if I could figure out how to work this old antique Lee loader that I got. I'll probably only use the hulls once, or maybe twice maximum. I almost feel bad dirtying up this little Lee Loader. It's pristine in the box right now & it's an old timer. The box says Lee Custom Engineering, not Lee Precision. Its from back when Lee loaders & lee molds were less than $11 each.
    “an armed society is a polite society.”
    Robert A. Heinlein

    "Idque apud imperitos humanitas vocabatur, cum pars servitutis esset."
    Publius Tacitus

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    marengo,ohio
    Posts
    1,101
    I've never tried a Lee loader before. Let us know how it works out. My first reloader was a
    Lee load all. FB

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    4114.27 yards North of the PRK.
    Posts
    952
    The Lee Loader is what I started with - in 20 ga. You'll prob'ly not like it for plastic unless you've got a crimp starter. It does (did) very well with paper. Not so well with plastic although they shoot. I think e-gunparts still has the crimp starters if you don't have one. Regards, Woody
    ---------------------------
    Take a kid along.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    ARIZONA!
    Posts
    823
    Quote Originally Posted by JIMinPHX View Post
    Thanks again Woody,
    I'll find a combination of components that falls into one of those those parameter sets.

    Firebricker,
    I'm not planning on using these things a bunch of times. I just found a bunch of hulls for free out in the dessert & thought that I would take a crack at seeing if I could figure out how to work this old antique Lee loader that I got. I'll probably only use the hulls once, or maybe twice maximum. I almost feel bad dirtying up this little Lee Loader. It's pristine in the box right now & it's an old timer. The box says Lee Custom Engineering, not Lee Precision. Its from back when Lee loaders & lee molds were less than $11 each.
    I'll bet you could trade that straight off for a MEC 600Jr without much issue.

    If the lee is in good condition, it's worth more a sa collectors item than a working reloader.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master JIMinPHX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Moving back east now
    Posts
    7,110
    Quote Originally Posted by woody1 View Post
    The Lee Loader is what I started with - in 20 ga. You'll prob'ly not like it for plastic unless you've got a crimp starter. It does (did) very well with paper. Not so well with plastic although they shoot. I think e-gunparts still has the crimp starters if you don't have one. Regards, Woody
    The one I have is the deluxe version that has 6 & 8 point crimp starters.
    “an armed society is a polite society.”
    Robert A. Heinlein

    "Idque apud imperitos humanitas vocabatur, cum pars servitutis esset."
    Publius Tacitus

  13. #13
    Boolit Master JIMinPHX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Moving back east now
    Posts
    7,110
    Quote Originally Posted by Storydude View Post
    I'll bet you could trade that straight off for a MEC 600Jr without much issue.

    If the lee is in good condition, it's worth more a sa collectors item than a working reloader.
    Is that an offer? I'd happily take a load all in 20 ga or any small 410 press that works in trade. a 410 press would actually be preferred.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by JIMinPHX; 06-23-2009 at 09:03 AM. Reason: add picture
    “an armed society is a polite society.”
    Robert A. Heinlein

    "Idque apud imperitos humanitas vocabatur, cum pars servitutis esset."
    Publius Tacitus

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    ARIZONA!
    Posts
    823
    Nothing for the peanut gauges. Sorry.


    You might be surprised what that'll bring on fLeabay.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master JIMinPHX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Moving back east now
    Posts
    7,110
    Stuff fleabay. If somebody here wants it, they are welcome to it. The fleabay vultures can go scratch. Thank you for the suggestion though.
    “an armed society is a polite society.”
    Robert A. Heinlein

    "Idque apud imperitos humanitas vocabatur, cum pars servitutis esset."
    Publius Tacitus

  16. #16
    Boolit Master briang's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Royersford PA
    Posts
    291
    Quote Originally Posted by IllinoisCoyoteHunter View Post
    ...snip... Claybuster wads are knockoffs of the more expensive factory wads....and shoot the EXACT same. ...snip...
    This is not true, at least in the case of the WAA12 wad and the lee 1oz slug. The Claybuster wad has ridges inside the shot cup portion of the wad, the Winchester's don't. These ridges cause the slug and wad to be tighter down the bore, which then destroys the wad and cause very poor accuracy. I've shot buckshot with tighter patterns than that group.
    Best motorcycle forum on the net.
    http://www.motorcyclistsunited.com/index.php

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    955
    Jim,
    Please read this;

    www.armbrust.acf2.org/primersubs.htm

    The other articles are worth reading. Good luck. Jim in NC

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    ARIZONA!
    Posts
    823
    Quote Originally Posted by JIMinPHX View Post
    Stuff fleabay. If somebody here wants it, they are welcome to it. The fleabay vultures can go scratch. Thank you for the suggestion though.
    Try for a trade in Swapping and selling. I've seen those sets go for about 30% OVER what a used MEC goes for. You have the more desirable one too. the Delux set has all the goodies.

    I hear ya on Fleaybay. BUT, sometimes that extra fundage is a nice thing.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master JIMinPHX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Moving back east now
    Posts
    7,110
    Quote Originally Posted by johnch View Post
    Go to Alliants website
    http://www.alliantpowder.com/questions/default.aspx
    Fill out the form and ask
    Thanks for the suggestion.

    The answer from Alliant -

    "I recommend that you use the Rem Premier data in your hull. Thanks for your note.

    Ben"
    “an armed society is a polite society.”
    Robert A. Heinlein

    "Idque apud imperitos humanitas vocabatur, cum pars servitutis esset."
    Publius Tacitus

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check