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Thread: The how to's of gunstock work

  1. #21
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    waksupi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by enfield View Post
    Whats the best "stain" to darken light coloured wood, I have a few stocks that look like they could be birch or something that I would like to darken. The regular Minwax "dark walnut" doesn't really get it that dark.

    Leather dye.
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  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master



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    Very nice job. Thanks!

  3. #23
    Boolit Bub Chuck_ls's Avatar
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    Some good ideas I will try on that old Springfield stock I have.

    Chuck

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by enfield View Post
    Whats the best "stain" to darken light coloured wood, I have a few stocks that look like they could be birch or something that I would like to darken. The regular Minwax "dark walnut" doesn't really get it that dark.
    Laural Mountain stains. Best I ever found.

  5. #25
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    I replaced the stocks on my Garand as the old ones really were beyond my help. The new ones arrived with a nice stain and a fuzzy finish. It was like they did not sand it at all. I started with 120 grit wet/dry sandpaper and gently rubbed off the fuzzy stuff. Then I moved to 320 grit and again gently sanded down the entire set of stocks. Then 400 and finally 1000 grit.

    It came out smooth as a newborns bottom. Then I applied Tung Oil in very thin coats. Apply on Monday, rub out with wool patches from a blanket on the following Monday. Ya cannot hurry the drying process. Somewhere around 4 months later I started to rub it out with 0000 Steel Wool wrapped around a sponge with some Tung Oil. This picked up the dried oil and filled in all the open grain in the wood. This went on for a few months and finally it is done. The finish is semi glossy but very hard and is quite attractive to my eyes. I should look as good as this Winchester that was made 4 months after I was born in '43.

    AS a bonus I ended up with an ammo can (.30 cal) in which I stored the sponge and sandpaper that had been exposed to tung oil that had an interior finish that smells wonderful and will never ever ever corrode.
    Last edited by Crash_Corrigan; 10-26-2017 at 04:37 AM. Reason: spelling
    Pax Nobiscum Dan (Crash) Corrigan

    Currently casting, reloading and shooting: 223 Rem, 6.5x55 Sweede, 30 Carbine, 30-06 Springfield, 30-30 WCF, 303 Brit., 7.62x39, 7.92x57 Mauser, .32 Long, 32 H&R Mag, 327 Fed Mag, 380 ACP. 9x19, 38 Spcl, 357 Mag, 38-55 Win, 41 Mag, 44 Spcl., 44 Mag, 45 Colt, 45 ACP, 454 Casull, 457 RB for ROA and 50-90 Sharps. Shooting .22 LR & 12 Gauge seldom and buying ammo for same.

  6. #26
    Boolit Bub Discus420's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    Leather dye.
    I am working on a stock right now that just wont take stain I will try the leather dye and hope it works!!!

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy
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    I just ordered fiebings leather die for little scout project

  8. #28
    Very good read, thank you. A couple questions, I have a model 94 that I need to put a finish on, long story short the stock did get sanded, simple butt plate/ screw replacement gone bad. Project got mothballed for 10 years. My original plan was to use Minwax antique oil finish only because my father and I did a 22 with it years ago and it seemed to work quite well, I still own the gun and the finish has been on it for 30 years, however the can of it I had went bad. Has anyone used this for guns? Or have any idea what it is made of? I think I have kind of decided on boiled linseed oil, seems like the go to?

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    Is there any literature on making a stock from scratch? It's what I have been doing for my 1873 winchester replica, though the project has gone into hibernation. I have the forestock roughed out, need a piece of walnut for the rear stock still. Figure maybe there's some good reading on this subject?

  10. #30
    Boolit Mold GranddadsDadsMine's Avatar
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    Absolutely beautiful transformation. Amazing. Learning a lot from posts like this.
    Take pride in everything you do, or not, you do what you think's right, I'll do what I think's right

    "Lady if you weren't a nun, I'd let you save your own bacon."
    -Hogan

  11. #31
    Boolit Master RED BEAR's Avatar
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    I have to go with easy off lye or not . As for a finish i use linseed oil with a bit of bone black to highlight the grain. I have been told that once you do an oil coat thats it you can't use anything else over it. I am a bit anal about things i don't believe it can't be done until i prove it to my self i have a swede mauser that i bubbaed up . I worked on this gun on and off for around 30 years i put probably more than 100 light coats of oil rubbed in real good. Didn't want to have to do this again so put god knows how many coats of poly on it went over it with 2000 wet dry paper until it was like glass but no shine then waxed with Johnson's wax .people keep asking how i got the wood to look like that i just say a whole lotta work.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check