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Thread: Kroil in a boolit mold

  1. #141
    Boolit Buddy
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    With that said I`ll have to try it.

    Horace

  2. #142
    Boolit Bub
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    I tried kroil in my rcbs 44-250-K and it took about six casts to get good bullets.
    put it in my rcbs 38-150-SWC and i had wrinkles for half an hour when i got bored and sprayed the mold with brakekleen and moved on.

    odd yes?

    Jody

  3. #143
    Boolit Master yondering's Avatar
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    Kroil was the worst thing I've tried in any of my molds. Endless wrinkles, even after running the mold hotter than it should be, until I scrub it clean again. Complete waste of time, IMO, and gives the same results as any other oil in a mold.

    Then again, I fix any mold that sticks, and don't rely on a release agent. I do lightly smoke all my molds, because they fill out better that way.

  4. #144
    Boolit Master S.B.'s Avatar
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    You guys talk in circles. Kano kroil or spotman kroil? Wrinkles from what low mold temp or kroil, are you sure? Some one please put nail this down? Thsi is the reason I seldom finish a thread here.
    Steve
    "The Original Point and Click Interface was a Smith & Wesson."
    Life member NRA, USPSA, ISRA
    Life member AF&AM 294

  5. #145
    Boolit Buddy ROCKET's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cajun shooter View Post
    Kroil is like your American Express of oil. You should never have a home with out it.
    Funny... But true. I have a few cans on my bench...

  6. #146
    Boolit Master
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    all i got was wrinkles, won't try it again.

  7. #147
    Boolit Mold Lightmkr's Avatar
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    Worked fine for me once up to proper mold temp. first few were wrinkled but then I got 500 perfect ones. I'll will be using Kroil from here on.

  8. #148
    Boolit Master


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    I have never cast a bullet in my life until last week. I had read this thread and decided to give it a go. I treated an old Lyman mold and a new Lee mold. I did "season" both on a hot plate by heating and cooling through two cycles. The Lyman mold dropped good bullets from the first one. The Lee hasn't dropped a good bullet yet. I'm wondering if mold material has an effect on the outcome? It certainly didn't cause any problems in the Lyman mold.

  9. #149
    Boolit Master S.B.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RickinTN View Post
    I have never cast a bullet in my life until last week. I had read this thread and decided to give it a go. I treated an old Lyman mold and a new Lee mold. I did "season" both on a hot plate by heating and cooling through two cycles. The Lyman mold dropped good bullets from the first one. The Lee hasn't dropped a good bullet yet. I'm wondering if mold material has an effect on the outcome? It certainly didn't cause any problems in the Lyman mold.
    I have molds of every material and have been casting most of my 64 years I have never seasoned any of them. Just melt alloy and start casting? I will concede some molds heatup quicker than others.
    Steve
    "The Original Point and Click Interface was a Smith & Wesson."
    Life member NRA, USPSA, ISRA
    Life member AF&AM 294

  10. #150
    Boolit Mold leadtater's Avatar
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    Hello, I believe it is because iron is porous and treating with kroil is like seasoning a cast iron skillet. Alum molds are much more dense at the atomic level to "season" as one would do with iron.

  11. #151
    Boolit Master S.B.'s Avatar
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    What in the world is the "atomic level"? Just how hot are you getting these molds?
    Steve
    "The Original Point and Click Interface was a Smith & Wesson."
    Life member NRA, USPSA, ISRA
    Life member AF&AM 294

  12. #152
    Boolit Man
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    well the lee mold has a die lube they ship with . I dont know what it is but clean it off with carb cleaner or some type solvent . then wash in dawn ,tide what ever to get the cleaner off. heat the lee to cast temp. put the Kroil on and let it heat DRY. then cast. You need the mold at about cast temp for it to work . I use a Qtip "papershaft kind" it seems it makes it easy and less mess and smoke .
    It works I have done for several. Kroil has a stuff that is better but you cant afford it . Its about $80 gal . but works for life as release and lube

  13. #153
    Boolit Master
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    I have two Lyman steel moulds so treated for weeks now and plan on using tomorrow. Skeptical giddiness? Also have a new pair of heat resistant gloves to try.

    prs

  14. #154
    Boolit Master
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    i found if I get the mold pretty warm, kroil it,it might even smoke and sizzle some, wipe off excess, heat it up to temp then cast. The first few might have a few wrinkles but after that its as good as they get ! When im done casting While the mold is still pretty hot, I oil it, NO sizzle this time, let it cool completly, Store it wet, in a zip lok baggy. Next time just heat in go ! It works on lee as well as brass and steel.
    Years ago we used to do black oxide at work. Kroil was what they used, to stop the rusting process. I really hate the smell of it !

    Mike

  15. #155
    Boolit Bub 175lt2's Avatar
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    I have used kroil to remove stuck on lead from molds before, it works great for that but I always degrease before casting . Well I tried casting with kroil,,,,,,,,,,,Worst thing I have ever done to a good mold. Nothing but wrinkles. after about 50 wrinkled castings I let the mold cool and scrubbed it with laquer thinner.

  16. #156
    Boolit Master


    Walter Laich's Avatar
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    I've used Koil in Lee molds without problems. Even sprayed it in hot molds--after a few casts great bullets. Smell was nice, too.
    .

    Only used it in Lee molds, Lymans are not a problem for me.
    NRA Life
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    RVN/Cambodia War Games, 2nd Place

  17. #157
    Boolit Bub Hard_Cast's Avatar
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    I'm like 175lt2, I have used Kroil to get between lead and the mold for removal, even soaked overnight. Never used it as a release. Have to admit, I don't own a thermometer. I use an RCBS bottom-pour, and set the temp dial to 800 or a little below. I have smoked cavities before, but lately I cast fast as I can without shearing the sprue, and they cast clean and drop freely. I might try this on a stubborn mold, but last session I cast ~1100 .44s (40lbs) without a hitch. Hard to argue with results. I think proper temp and rate are key. Also, I've found that adding1-2% tin to my WW drastically increases fillout. The only voodoo I do to molds anymore is clean with alcohol and Q tips prior to casting. Ive found ANY oil in the cavities will impede fillout and lead to hanging!

  18. #158
    Boolit Master

    jeepyj's Avatar
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    I am also interested in the state chemical product called "Dry" I have several cans from a past deal. Has anyone else had else tried this? I will casting later on this week and give my 2cents worth
    Jeepyj

  19. #159
    Boolit Buddy
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    I'm such a rank beginner, I hesitate to weigh in on this. I have 2 lee molds (2 cavity) that I could NOT get to drop consistent boolits with complete fill-out. I tried everything I could think of, or read about in the forum. But I have a 3 cavity iron mold in 358 (a Cramer 25A) that I could hardly foul up. So....

    I Kroiled the 2 Lee molds and VOILLA! MANY MANY GOOD BOOLITS!

    I'm sold. I didn't even make much of a effort to clean the Kroil out if the cavities. Just a light wipe with a paper towel. It took 5 or 6 drops, then I became a "boolit casting machine".

    Krazy. It makes no sense....

    Stan

  20. #160
    Boolit Mold Uncle LeadisBetter's Avatar
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    shotman,
    I'm new at this, so work with me here. You are using the Kroil like a cooking spray, spray on mold let evaporate and pour. Just trying to see the picture here. And for storage fluid film or motor oil.
    Take care
    No man is entitled to the blessings of freedom unless he is vigilant in its preservation. General MacArthur

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BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
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