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Thread: Kroil in a boolit mold

  1. #61
    Boolit Man


    Hammer's Avatar
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    I tried the Kroil on a "good" mold that stuck a lot. It wrinkled every bullet that came out of it. Never happened before. Then when I cleaned it out the mold went back to sticking.... If I gained anything, I haven't figured it out. I drove 30 miles last night to get a can to try it......Nothing ventured....

  2. #62
    Boolit Master
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    Mixed results

    I have done very well so far with a Lee mold and not so good with an RCBS mold. Before I got good results with the Lee mold I learned what others had already posted was true. Most of the Kroil must be wiped off while the mold is cold. If you can see it wet on the mold there is still too much there. Take a Q-tip and dab it until it no longer looks wet. Then heat the mold before you start casting. This I think allows the Kroil to flash off leaving the very thinnest of films on the mold surfaces. Then start casting. My experience has about a dozen casts that produce wrinkles and then perfect bullets. About 60 casts later a little bit of sticking returns. I spray a light blast of Kroil on each mold face and due to the mold being at full casting temp.
    it flashes right off and maybe 3-4 cast are wrinkled before the bullets are perfect again for another 60 or more casts. I'll have to experiment some more with the RCBS and other steel molds.

  3. #63
    Boolit Master
    Shooter6br's Avatar
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    Try garden variety Silicone spray I used it for casting bucksot with Skies unlimited mold

  4. #64
    Boolit Master



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    If you're have molds to stick after using Kroil, you're using it wrong! You should heat up the mould to casting temps (350 to 450 degrees F) apply Kroil and set it aside to cool. after a half-hour or so heat up mould and cast.
    If you're sticking now, you have a burr or something on/in the mould.
    EW

  5. #65
    Boolit Bub DWM's Avatar
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    Kroil in Europe

    Anyone have a source for Kroil oil in Europe?
    Thank you Daniel

  6. #66
    Boolit Man
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    Kroll?

    Midway has Kroll penetrating and bore oil and Kroll gun oil in a can which should I use? I did not see one in a spray can.

  7. #67
    Boolit Master



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    fiatmom, for a great deal, try their online special.

    http://www.kanolabs.com/google/


    Custom Cast Boolits Google Search


    The Learning Never Stops!

  8. #68
    Boolit Man
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    I was having real problems casting 45 cal. bullets with sticking. It wasn't bad at first but after 20 bullets or so, I could hardly get the bullet to drop. Then I saw this post. I bought some Kroil off the internet, both the spray and the liquid, then I disassembled my mould. I poured come of the Kroil into a container and soaked my mould for several days and the lead that was actually stuck came off. I then reassembled my mould and went to start casting. I preheated the mould nice and hot and started to cast. The first 3 or 4 bullets came out wrinkled, but after that they fell out when I opened the mould and were really nice. After casting 50 bullets or so, I had to start tapping the handles to get them to drop so I grabbed the spray can and gave it a good shot. After another couple of wrinkled bullets, they fell out again and turned out great. Thanks guys for this post. You really made my casting much easier.

    Alan

  9. #69
    Boolit Mold
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    Kroil

    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Sometimes View Post
    Well, I tried Shotman's Kroil on a bare metal mold night before last- sprayed it on, let it soak overnight, wiped off the excess, and began casting. The bullets dropped right out- smoother than anything I had ever tried before. No hang ups at all, even when the mold wasn't quite up to temp- this on a Lyman 22 mold.

    Tried another product, too, called DRI by State with an industrial-only availability (had this can for a few years). It is a 4-way moisture displacement product, useful for lots of things. It smelled better than the Kroil, is about the only difference in function when I applied it to the mold.

    Anybody else tried these or other products as mold protectant/release agents?

    How about on aluminum molds?
    I haven't been on the site for a while, but I'm trying to catch up. When I bought my Sharps and started banging away with black, I bought a can of Kroil. I is a great preservative. If only they could make it smell better. It smells like the little crystal cakes they put in urinals to me! I recently started using Ballistol. It smells like puke to me. I have open a bottle of Hoppe's No.9 to get the sweet essence of guns back in the room. I have used Kroil on several moulds, but I'm sure I have always used degreaser before running bullets. I will definitely try this. Any up-date on Kroil in moulds?
    Jagdhund

  10. #70
    Boolit Bub DWM's Avatar
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    To answer my own question Kroil in Europe here is located in UK

    Craig International Supplies
    Aberdeen
    Marc Johnston

    Marc.johnston@craig-group.com


    Daniel

  11. #71
    Boolit Master



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    I have the new Mihec 503 .44 cal brass mold with the 3 hollow points cramer style. I elected to use the penta pins. I got good boolits from the first cast but after about 50 cycles the boolits started to hang up on the pins. I took a q tip with a tiny amount of Kano Kroil and applied it to the pins.

    The boolits jumped off the pins but did need more Kroil about every 100 cycles or so. Great stuff and those are very nasty looking boolits.

    I cannot wait to try them out on some innocent milk jugs fulla water to see what they do. I started out with 6.6 gr of Unique and in my .44 Bulldog it was not fun.

    I am starting some off at 4.5 gr of Unique and will build up to 5.5 gradually to see where the performance and the level of comfort are. I am using 30-1 alloy so these boolits are soft but I want some expansion but I want to also keep shooting this gun comfortable. Although with the light weight of the Charter Arms Bulldog I doubt anything but a wimp load will be comfortable.

    At 6 gr or more of Unique this is a very unpleasant gun to shoot even with a glove on your hand. Of course in a life threatening situation I doubt I would even feel the recoil and I can see why the fella that sold the gun did so. Pain. I would rather give than receive it.
    Pax Nobiscum Dan (Crash) Corrigan

    Currently casting, reloading and shooting: 223 Rem, 6.5x55 Sweede, 30 Carbine, 30-06 Springfield, 30-30 WCF, 303 Brit., 7.62x39, 7.92x57 Mauser, .32 Long, 32 H&R Mag, 327 Fed Mag, 380 ACP. 9x19, 38 Spcl, 357 Mag, 38-55 Win, 41 Mag, 44 Spcl., 44 Mag, 45 Colt, 45 ACP, 454 Casull, 457 RB for ROA and 50-90 Sharps. Shooting .22 LR & 12 Gauge seldom and buying ammo for same.

  12. #72
    Boolit Master
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    I tried kroil in a lyman 358477 that is one of my best casting molds. After dropping 50 or 60 wrinkled boolits I gave up and cleaned the mold and went back to casting good boolits. Then tried it on a Lee mold that doesn't fill out real well. It went to casting bullets that were wrinkled and didn't fillout well. Lemented it and now all is well. As far as I can see it mucks up a mold just like any other oil. I got the mold hot and casting good and then wiped with kroil on a q-tip and then wiped with a couple of clean q- tips. It did clean the molds pretty good but then had to clean the kroil out or wrinkles.

  13. #73
    Boolit Man
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    Lapping the cavaties on the lee moulds really helped me, i can only speak for the lee molds as they are the only aluminum molds i have

  14. #74
    Boolit Master
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    Used some of that kroil on the wife got her up to temperature smelled nice but the wrinkles never went away.First wife left because of the hoppes # 9 women can't seem to figure them out

  15. #75
    Boolit Master
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    kroil is god s nectar. it works on a lot of things

  16. #76
    Boolit Buddy
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    Have not used Kroil before, but the gun oil that I am now using is the creepinest stuff I have ever seen. It's that Lucas gun oil, and its msds says it can handled some pretty high temps.
    One gun smith told me that the Ma duces in Iraq were hangin up when they got over heated, the fix was Mobil 1 Synthetic because of its high tolerance to heat???, do not know but it also is very creepy and you can't hardly clean it off, seems like it almost penetrates or leaves the smallest of films.

  17. #77
    Boolit Man AZPaul's Avatar
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    I put some in my barrel after I clean them. If there's any thing left in them the first shot will clean it out.
    Carrying heat in dry heat.
    God bless SB1070

  18. #78
    Boolit Mold
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    I'm trying to get out as cheap as possible for my boolits I collected about 75 pounds of scrap lead melted down to ingots. I wasn't sure how much to buy from "Roto Metals" , so I purchased 4# linotype and 1# of tin can I use it to alloy or should I grab some wheel weights and if so How much should I add. I seem to be bit confused on the precentage of everything just trying to figure this casting thing out. Do you do a batch at a time to and than test the hardness? Adding a little bit each time? Am i even on the right place to ask this question.

  19. #79
    Old War Horse
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    Thumbs up

    First of all, let me be the first to welcome you to a pretty dang good Forum, mwtucaz!

    Yes, Sir, you've come to the right place... Personally I can't answer the questions you have, but there are some real scientific minds on here that should be able to help you get your alloy right up to the level of pure linotype...

    Take a little time to get to know the board, and also learn the search function... (Watch out for that d*mn search function it's contrary as all get out... lol! )

    You'll do fine, and welcome to the Board that doesn't call the pellets of the molten silver stream anything but Boolits... lol!



    Quote Originally Posted by mwtucaz View Post
    I'm trying to get out as cheap as possible for my boolits I collected about 75 pounds of scrap lead melted down to ingots. I wasn't sure how much to buy from "Roto Metals" , so I purchased 4# linotype and 1# of tin can I use it to alloy or should I grab some wheel weights and if so How much should I add. I seem to be bit confused on the precentage of everything just trying to figure this casting thing out. Do you do a batch at a time to and than test the hardness? Adding a little bit each time? Am i even on the right place to ask this question.
    Jim Fleming

    I will bleed, Red, White, & Blue forever.

    USAFR (Retired)
    NRA Endowment Member
    VFW Life Member

  20. #80
    Boolit Master


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    mwtucaz: Welcome to the forum. Go back to the starting page, then to Lead and Lead Alloys section. Click on "new thread" at the top of that page and ask your question in a new thread and title it "Alloy help" or some such. You'll find friendly, knowledgeable folks to help.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check