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Thread: Kroil in a boolit mold

  1. #1
    Boolit Master



    Charlie Sometimes's Avatar
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    Question Kroil in a boolit mold

    Well, I tried Shotman's Kroil on a bare metal mold night before last- sprayed it on, let it soak overnight, wiped off the excess, and began casting. The bullets dropped right out- smoother than anything I had ever tried before. No hang ups at all, even when the mold wasn't quite up to temp- this on a Lyman 22 mold.

    Tried another product, too, called DRI by State with an industrial-only availability (had this can for a few years). It is a 4-way moisture displacement product, useful for lots of things. It smelled better than the Kroil, is about the only difference in function when I applied it to the mold.

    Anybody else tried these or other products as mold protectant/release agents?

    How about on aluminum molds?


    Call Kroil, you don't have to be a company to do it-
    Their number is 1 800 598 0745
    Last edited by Charlie Sometimes; 08-22-2010 at 10:17 AM. Reason: add Kroil contact information
    USMC 1980-1985

  2. #2
    Boolit Master




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    What is the difference between KANO Kroil and Shotman's Kroil ? I would have thought the Kroil would be a problem if not removed before casting.
    God Bless America
    US Army, NRA Endowment, TSRA Life
    SASS, Ruger & Marlin accumulator

  3. #3
    Boolit Master snaggdit's Avatar
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    You had no wrinkling issues at all? I have a few Lee molds that are stubborn when it comes to dropping boolits. I would be interesteed if this helps. I have some Kano Kroil liquid as well as the aerosol. You stated you wiped the excess out, like with a q-tip?
    "To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical. " - Thomas Jefferson

    "Mankind will in time discover that unbridled majorities are as tyrannical and cruel as unlimited despots." - John Adams

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Kroil etc, in a mold.

    Sounds like its worth a try. I've been using "Clenzoil" to preserve my molds and it has worked well. but It has to be thoroughly gotten out of the cavity and off the blocks. I do that by soaking and completely wiping dry the blocks and cav(s) before preheating, with paint or lacquer thinner or acetone. Not good stuff to breathe so its done outdoors. Clenzoil is really good stuff to clean guns with too. LLS

  5. #5
    Cast Boolits Founder/B.O.B.

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    Works great for me for any troublesome mold, steel, brass or alum.
    Boolits= as God laid it into the soil,,grand old Galena,the Silver Stream graciously hand poured into molds for our consumption.

    Bullets= Machine made utilizing Full Length Gas Checks as to provide projectiles for the masses.

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  6. #6
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    Kroil is like your American Express of oil. You should never have a home with out it.
    Shooter of the "HOLY BLACK" SASS 81802 AKA FAIRSHAKE; NRA ; BOLD; WARTHOG;Deadwood Marshal;Bayou Bounty Hunter; So That his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat; 44 WCF filled to the top, 210 gr. bullet

  7. #7
    Boolit Master Whitespider's Avatar
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    Interesting, and like snaggdit, I'd like more details.
    I have a couple molds that just won't release the way I'd like, I've tried all the tricks, drives me nuts. I am (or was) under the impression that any oil, of any type, left in the mold cavities would produce something closer to a shriveled prune.
    List of questions;
    • We are talkin' plain ol' Kroil aerosol?
    • Is it applied and wiped off before casting, or is it allowed to soak for a time?
    • Wiped off with what, how do you get it out of the cavities, Q-tip?
    • Do you preheat the mold, using a method that would burn off any excess Kroil?
    • Does Kroil leave a residue that will build up, like WD40 will tend to do?

  8. #8
    Boolit Master



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    Kano Kroil- yes. Shotman is the advocate for this application. I had very, very faint wrinkling intially- mostly because my mold was not up to proper temp yet. Once it was- BAM! They all dropped out like nothing had ever held them. My Kroil aerosol can is a little older- labeled Aero Kroil (the previous manufacturer). I guess formulation is still the same?

    I had soaked my mold overnight in a sealed glass jar where I had placed it to spray it, and let it stand, then took a rag and wiped off the excess from all over the mold the next day- no q-tip, but pushed the rag into the cavity as there was a lot of liquid on the mold.

    I was hesitant to try this process, as I am old school about oil in the cavity too, but this worked, and so did the DRI product. I'm shocked- it acts as protectant and release agent, too? What are the odds that something will actually work better than it's intended purpose?

    As to the Lee molds hanging up- sounds like they need Lee-menting, but this might help too. I don't know how far this process will take you. Burrs, or an out-of-round cavity causing the hang ups could be the culprit. I was wondering if anyone had tried this on aluminum molds- mine was iron. Apparently 45Nut has used it on all types (according to the above post), and it works- I will be trying other products too, and may very well have changed my approach to protecting and using my molds.

    Goes to show that there is always something you can learn on this forum, and not to be afraid of changing the status quo- even if your ways work well.

    Anybody else tried it, or other products?
    USMC 1980-1985

  9. #9
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    Doesn't make any sense, but if it works for you....

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Leadforbrains's Avatar
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    I use Kroil for cleaning my rifle and pistol barrels. I have also soaked my molds in it to help preserve them. I wipe my molds down and after they get up to temp I get good boolits after a few wrinkled ones initially. Kroil is a must have and I love the smell.
    Fast is fine, but accuracy is final!
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  11. #11
    Boolit Master & Generous Contributor

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    I've got several cans of it and I use to spray my moulds with after use. I've always scrubbed the Kroil back out of the mould with hot soapy water before use again. I'll try leaving the Kroil in next time and see how it goes.
    I also use Kroil mixed with JB to clean my barrels with.
    If ever a time should come, when vain and aspiring men shall possess the highest seats in Government, our country will stand in need of its experienced patriots to prevent its ruin.
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    Sam

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks for the tip. I've never tried this. I do use it for barrel treatment, though.

    The only complaint I have about Kroil is that it's quite good at creeping, but they don't ship it in a seamless container.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master snaggdit's Avatar
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    I have worked on the offending molds a bit already. Checked for sharp edges, and gently scraped them. Cast pure lead boolits and used a cordless drill with a flattened finishing nail to spin them in the cavity with polishing compound. Smoked well, still sketchy dropping. I will try the Kroil next time I get to casting. Loading some 40 today, might use up my cast boolits and will have to cast some more. Time allowing we will see.
    "To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical. " - Thomas Jefferson

    "Mankind will in time discover that unbridled majorities are as tyrannical and cruel as unlimited despots." - John Adams

  14. #14
    Old War Horse
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    Thumbs up A Mould Maker's Opinion for what it's Worth

    Snaggdit, I work with Mould Equipment everyday, and I wish to urge you, in the strongest, and still be polite, be VERY careful of your sharp edges in the seams. From what you wrote, it would sound like you've done quite well as far as being careful, but please understand this, once the "iron" is removed from a sharp corner on the mould cavity? you're going to start getting fins in that exact area.

    Also, please be careful of your bullet diameters, you might want to check them, and be sure they don't become oversized...

    Sorry to sound rough, it's just that I want to stress taking very good care of the Moulds you have, they're precious, especially in todays political situations.I'm sorry, I know that this message sounds pushy and bossy, I genuinely don't mean it that way. It's just that I repair Mould Equipment for a living, and I have to replace the nicks, bumps, and scratches with by Gas Welding. It's a whole lot harder to put the cavity form back, than it is to damage it.



    Take Care,

    Jim




    Quote Originally Posted by snaggdit View Post
    I have worked on the offending molds a bit already. Checked for sharp edges, and gently scraped them. Cast pure lead boolits and used a cordless drill with a flattened finishing nail to spin them in the cavity with polishing compound. Smoked well, still sketchy dropping. I will try the Kroil next time I get to casting. Loading some 40 today, might use up my cast boolits and will have to cast some more. Time allowing we will see.
    Last edited by Jim_Fleming; 06-07-2009 at 06:19 PM.
    Jim Fleming

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  15. #15
    Boolit Master snaggdit's Avatar
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    Thanks for the concern, Jim. I was very careful. Especially since they are aluminum. I did nothing "heavy handed". No finning since. The polishing improved the boolit finish, but did not change the overall boolit size. Not like I used valve grinding cpnd. Just figured it might help. It did some, but still those finicky hanging boolits...
    "To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical. " - Thomas Jefferson

    "Mankind will in time discover that unbridled majorities are as tyrannical and cruel as unlimited despots." - John Adams

  16. #16
    Old War Horse
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    Thumbs up

    Yes! Exactly right! Good deal! The thing about aluminum is that, yes it can be TIG welded, but as small as the moulds are, it's darned difficult to be so accurate as to only weld that infernal nick and not spoil the area around the weld, you get the idea...

    Good Job Sir!

    Jim


    Quote Originally Posted by snaggdit View Post
    Thanks for the concern, Jim. I was very careful. Especially since they are aluminum. I did nothing "heavy handed". No finning since. The polishing improved the boolit finish, but did not change the overall boolit size. Not like I used valve grinding cpnd. Just figured it might help. It did some, but still those finicky hanging boolits...
    Jim Fleming

    I will bleed, Red, White, & Blue forever.

    USAFR (Retired)
    NRA Endowment Member
    VFW Life Member

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    Goes to show that there is always something you can learn on this forum, and not to be afraid of changing the status quo- even if your ways work well.

    Anybody else tried it, or other products?


    I've been spraying Rem Oil on my RCBS molds for some time now. No rust, and after the mold gets up to temp, no problems, either.
    Tom
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  18. #18
    Boolit Master Slow Elk 45/70's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info and the "leave the Kroil on the molds" and in the cavities, I'll try it, I use it on my guns and molds for storage , but like others I always cleaned it [mold] before casting.

    Learn something everyday...
    Slow Elk 45/70

    Praise the Lord & Pass the Ammo

  19. #19
    Boolit Master lead Foot's Avatar
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    Having an film inside the mould might make the boolit smaller in diameter.
    Lead foot;

  20. #20
    Boolit Master

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    Hey Kroil WILL NOT prevent rust. The mold will rust. You need to use Fluid Film or break free motor oil but Kroil is good to cast with I use it all the time but if mold is where the weather can see it it will rust
    Somehow I knew most of you would try it but till now no one has said it WORKS. No lead sticking. The spray can is best that way you can spray the mold when hot. I seem to find about 40 mold drops and you will get a little sticky one . Fast pass and let evaporate and keep on.
    I leave it on the mold but I store in a sealed ammo can.
    Now I cannot beleive the guy that said it didnt work. Who would have thought
    I will add this it works better than anything that you can do to a Lee or any AL mold. I bought a Lee off feebay that I think is a RD mold. Guy had NO return and put note in box That mold would not drop the boolit. One was still in mold. I soaked it with Kroil and next day it fell out. had to take a eraser and clean a little but I didnt see it not drop any
    Last edited by shotman; 06-08-2009 at 03:52 AM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check