1911 Feed Problems

[Walkingwolf]

Any mil spec 1911(no modification) I have had has fed everything. There are so many ammo factors that can be causing problems. 1911 are picky about OAL, weak charges, case still belled with no crimp. I have used SWC with no problems but prefer flat point for low powered charges. I do not go below 800 fps for SWC, or RNFP. I do drop below for 230 grain round nose. I always make sure that the case is fully sized, not just the neck, and make sure there is no bell left after seating bullet.

[Josh Smith]

When reading about your issues, my brain screamed; "light bullets, heavy recoil spring". You have been given much good counsel, but were it me, I would put in a 16 lb spring and use a 200 grain or heavier bullet in a good mag. I doubt your problems would persist.

Any mil spec 1911(no modification) I have had has fed everything. There are so many ammo factors that can be causing problems. 1911 are picky about OAL, weak charges, case still belled with no crimp. I have used SWC with no problems but prefer flat point for low powered charges. I do not go below 800 fps for SWC, or RNFP. I do drop below for 230 grain round nose. I always make sure that the case is fully sized, not just the neck, and make sure there is no bell left after seating bullet.

Hi Guys,

I fixed it a long time ago. I only wanted to follow up, hoping it would help someone. It wasn't any of the usual things, but rather about the third or fourth thing I'd check. (I got me some real training on the 1911 between then and now, and have studied it myself ever since.)

From a piece I wrote while fixing it:

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here is a bit on lower lugs and lug bump:


I found this on my Rock Island when troubleshooting a failure into battery.

Barrel lug bump is not good. An improper radius on the bottom lugs will allow them to crash into the slide stop pin, reshaping the lugs and causing the dreaded Three Point Jam (yes, it's attained proper-noun status in my mind) when it slows due to the crash.

The link is only for pulling the barrel down out of battery.

Some folks (and 1911a1 military specs) call for the slide stop pin to use the link to either partially or wholly put the barrel back into battery when the slide goes forward.

Now, this is not the way the system was designed and it can break the link.

So riding the lugs is a good thing. In other words, if you pull the link out, the barrel will have trouble dropping down at speed -- and don't fire it like this; you'll shear the top lugs! -- but it should have absolutely no trouble going back into battery.

To fix lug contact, first stone off the high spots, then check the radius and contact.

The easiest way to check lug contact is to use contact fluid (I need some more!) or just a sharpie. Color the lower lugs and cycle a few times. If you're riding the lug as you should, you'll get something like this:



Uneven contact is not a good thing; this picture shows uneven contact. I stoned the high side just a bit and it is now perfect.

Correct radius is shown here:






See how the hole is partially hidden by the lower lugs? This assures the lugs will ride the slide stop cross pin into battery.

Shown is the link on my stock Rock barrel after I repaired the lug bump damage and radius. If you can do this, there is no reason to weld up the barrel lugs or replace it.

I fitted a NM bushing to the barrel after this repair, and along with new sights, I get these types of groups with handloads:



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That's what I hope will help someone.

Regards,

Josh

[Greg S]

I was going to post this morning and that bright bouncing ball side tracked me. The first thing that his me was just mentioned by Char-Gar especially if it is a new spring. The lighter recoil is narrowing the operating window and the slide is just clearing the rear of the of the mag tunnel and changing directions. The problem is it is just starting to gain momentum when the breech face begins to strip a round from the mag.

? - Does the pistol display the same stoppage when a fresh mag is inserted and the slide is released from slidelock?

If not, dropping down to a 16 or reducing the charge and a 14lb spring should solve the problem. Additionally, stay away from Colt style original (surplus) style mags for SWC bullets, the modern day mags (i.e. Wilson 47D ect) mag lips release the cartridge earlier to prevent feedway jams.

[Greg S]

Ooops, shoulda refreshed prior to posting. Keep an eye on the lower lugs, a bump may continue to form until the right geomitry is filed in.

[Josh Smith]

Yes, sir, it's been fine since.

That gun was an awesome learning experience, and is now retired to being a mostly cast boolit gun.

Its new replacement build is pretty flawless, but not quite as precise.

It's built from a Rock Island, too, but it does look like Rock Island found in the time between the old manufacture and the new, that it's not a good idea to try to hard fit factory guns. (Not quite hard fitted, but it sure looked like someone at the factory tried a fast custom fit. Was interesting.)

This new one has a link that hands off to the lower lug then presents a gap during full lockup -- doesn't stand on the lugs.

That older one shoots so well that I never did fit that NM barrel I'd bought for it. The newer 1911 could benefit from a fitted barrel, but it has good carry gun accuracy so I'm not going to do it yet, if ever.

Regards,

Josh

[Texas by God]

Excellent pics, Josh Smith.