Inline FabricationReloading EverythingMidSouth Shooters SupplyTitan Reloading
RepackboxRotoMetals2Lee PrecisionWideners
Snyders Jerky Load Data
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 24

Thread: Star luber&sizer

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy Finn45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    308

    Question Star luber&sizer

    About the Star sizer... I understand that it's the fastest of the bunch of manually operated sizers, but how about the quality of the sized boolits? I understand that when sizing boolits which have long bearing surface and short nose, there's no much concern about alignment, they are generally self aligning when sized nose first. But, is there any concern when sizing long nosed bore riders which have relatively short or very short drive band section? Is there any possibility to get parallelogram (sp?) effect and if so, does it matter any?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    south western pennsylvina
    Posts
    3,413

    star accuracy

    hi in my experiance the star sizes a 145 gr gc 7mm, 200 grgc 35 cal , and a 165gr gc 30 cal ,& 350gr gc & 540gr gc rifle bullets very accuratly , pistol bullets are also very accurate and i size bullets nose first i wouldent even consider another way as accuracy is very good and i shot in matches for 25 years and have allways shot in the highest class for that type of shooting and won more than my share of matches.

  3. #3
    Super Moderator




    Buckshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    So. California
    Posts
    11,833
    .............Reijo, I have seen exactly ONE Star size die, so consider my expert response! Like the other sizers, the Star die has a gentle leade into the parallel sizer portion. However, this tapered leade is a lot longer. I would suspect that hand starting the bore rider into the die, and then somewhat gently pushing on the base with the punch would have the first drive band pretty well center itself in the die.

    Perhaps if operating the punch rapidly to push the slug in may not allow the base to side on the face of the punch and center, so in that case there might be an issue? Just guessing.

    ...............Buckshot
    Father Grand Caster watches over you my brother. Go now and pour yourself a hot one. May the Sacred Silver Stream be with you always

    Proud former Shooters.Com Cast Bullet alumnus and plank owner.

    "The Republic can survive a Barack Obama, who is, after all, merely a fool. It is less likely to survive a multitude of fools such as those who made him their president."

    Shrink the State End the Fed Balance the budget Make a profit Leave an inheritance

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy Finn45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    308
    Thanks for the responses. This is what I thought as Lee sizers are working well also if operated properly. Starting point should be a good cast projectile in the first place, so alignment should not be an issue. I was asking this because one of the local booliteers got seemingly excited when he found new Stars for sale in the Fbay (manufacturer selling them there) and one time there was (Finnish talk board) one expert questioning Star method because of the possibility to make skewed bullets. He stated that he used to make his own top punches for Lyman/RCBS-type machines because original factory pieces were crooked causing eccentric noses and calibration. Well, he had other strict opinions about these things as well...

  5. #5
    Boolit Master omgb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    1,628
    The nose first sizing of bullets in a Star machine seems to avoid any of the problems some have with alignment. Veral Smith over at LBT (Lead Bullet Technology) has written extensively on this issue and he rates the Star #1 for protecting concenticity as well as for speed. Further, it is possible to order a flat punch that has a slightly dished center. This is ideal for placing GCs on bullets. The rim presses the GC foreward and onto the base of the bullet a few thousandths abead of the base while the recessed center permits the sprue area to follow. This gives an especially flat and hard gripping GC.

  6. #6
    Banned
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    8,099
    omgb,

    All the punches on my sizer dies for the my Lyman 450 have the faces dished. In addition they are drilled all the way through to let any lube that might get between the plunger and base of the bullet to escape. So my Lyman also punches the rim of the gas check ahead first then letting the base follow while the recessed center lets the sprue follow. Yes Star is a good luber/sizer, but my Lyman gets the job done and I might add very well.

    Joe

  7. #7
    Boolit Master omgb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    1,628
    I was very happy with my RCBS unit and still am. For lubing and sizing small to medium batches of bullets there is nothing wrong with it at all. I'm sure the Lyman is equal to it in every way. Where the Star comes into its own is in processing large batches. I can run through a thousand so in less than a 1/4 of the time it takes me with the RCBS unit. If I didn't load at lot, I'd just stick with the RCBS or Lyman machine.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master LAH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In The Hardwoods
    Posts
    3,049
    While sell cast bullets I sized them all nose first, either on a Star or a Ballisti-Cast auto machine. They seem to make everyone happy.......Creeker

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    GLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    California
    Posts
    3,580
    Is there any major difference in the old Star vs. the new "Magma" Star ? I have been looking for an older model but they are very difficult to find used in good condition.

    I will probably break down and buy a new one.

    Jerry
    S&W .38/44 Outdoorsman Accumulator

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master
    454PB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Helena, Mt.
    Posts
    5,389
    I'm still learning about the old one I just got. The only difference I see so far is that there is a set screw to hold the die in my old one, and the new ones don't have that. I honestly don't see that that set screw is needed. Here a picture of the one I recently acquired (thanks, Fred!)


  11. #11
    Boolit Master LAH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In The Hardwoods
    Posts
    3,049
    454PB the old ones may have been machined closer in the die well. With my 2 new ones I can change the die with my fingers. Both old ones take the tool or a tool.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master LAH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In The Hardwoods
    Posts
    3,049
    CLL, having used both old and new a lot I can tell you for fact, if you wear either out you'll be doing something. HEE HEE

  13. #13
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    colorado
    Posts
    5

    broken star

    I have 2 Star sizers , but one has a broken casting at the top..a freind got way to heavy with it ..anyway , do the new Magna machines interchange , parts , with the old star or Plelps... thanks

  14. #14
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    4

    The two Star Lubers

    There was bad blood between Star and Dillon so Star when their property was taken for a new Stadium in San Diego deliberately sold the Star luber design to Magma who makes it out of Aluminum. Anyone who has broken the old Star luber should not sneeze next to the aluminum one.

    The Original Star had a very tight fit for the luber die into the basic frame and the Aluminum one does not have the strength for the tight leak free fit so they use gaskets that get torn up every time a lube die is changed. I was told this when I sold an old blue luber to a well known hand casting magnum bullet company owner.

    On Ebay an old blue luber brings a better price than a New Magma Silver model.

    I have some original Luber parts left from when I was a Star dealer.

    JP

  15. #15
    Boolit Master LAH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In The Hardwoods
    Posts
    3,049
    JP Jones can sell you parts for these lubers. He's out of business now but still has some stock. Get it while you can guys.

    The gasket or O ring needs a little lube when changing dies. Also make sure your die doesn't have a sharp leading edge. This will make the O ring last longer. One of my new Stars works fine while changing dies and the other doesn't. I use it with no O ring in place and instead use a little teflon tape on the die. Good to hear from you John Paul. I've been off line for a while. Hope you're doing better. God Bless.

    Creeker

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master
    454PB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Helena, Mt.
    Posts
    5,389
    Yeah, that O-ring in the Magma drawing slipped my mind....that's another difference. I make my own Lyman 450 dies, and I leave the O-ring groove and O-ring out.

    Maybe JP can let us know what parts he has. I'd like to get a couple of the punch locknuts, which are oddball 1/2" X 27 tpi.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master

    Tom Myers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Nimrod, Minnesota
    Posts
    941
    As a new owner of a brand new Star Sizer, I have a question.

    Is there supposed to be lube pressure to the die when the lube pump plunger is not depressed? I am getting lube on the nose of each bullet as it passes by the lube holes . If I push out a bullet while there is still pressure in the reservoir, the lube will coil out of the die lube holes.

    If I back off the pressure until there is no lube on the nose, then the grooves do not completely fill.

    I was under the impressin that the plunger was a sort of valve that only let pressure be applied when the bullet was in position.

    Can someone enlighten me so's I don't have to take the gol-dern thing apart to see how it works.?

    Tom Myers

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master
    454PB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Helena, Mt.
    Posts
    5,389
    I'm no expert yet, Tom, but here's what I've seen:

    While changing boolit styles, if I pushed the boolit through without pulling the handle far enough to trip the pump plunger, there was no lube in the grooves. It appears that there is not sufficient pressure supplied by the reservoir spring, it just pushes it as far as the high pressure pump.

    I think if you do some experimenting with adjusting the plunger to die top distance, you can overcome the problem you are having. If not, you may have to plug some of the lube holes in the die.

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    414
    There is a site for old Star machines:

    http://www.starreloaders.com/

    and someone selling spare parts, don't know if they actually are in business:

    http://www.starmachineworks.com/

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    293
    Tom, I had this problem in the beginning too. found out I didn't have the correct location of the punch to properly set the bullet in the right position. the handle must be all the way down when the holes of the die are lined up with the grooves for the lube. once I did this the problem was cured.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check