Titan ReloadingMidSouth Shooters SupplyInline FabricationWideners
Snyders JerkyRotoMetals2RepackboxLoad Data
Reloading Everything Lee Precision
Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Rem 700 bolt problem

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    5,296

    Rem 700 bolt problem

    Tryin' to fix a Rem 700 long action bolt. Plunger is stuck flat with the bolt face. Have removed the roll pin retainer, wiggled the plunger in and out as much as I could, soaked it in Ed's Red and am about to hit it with compressed air. Any tricks to help me free up this thing?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


    Mooseman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Sawyer, OKrahoma Master Gunsmith
    Posts
    1,821
    I have never seen one stuck that bad. You might try using a grease gun for a chainsaw that has a point on it to hydraulically force it out thru the retaining pin hole.May have to block one side of the hole with a pin.
    You Know You Might Be Facing your DOOM , if all you get is a click, Instead of a BOOM !

    If God had wanted us to have Plastic gun stocks he would have planted plastic Trees !

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Kali-
    Posts
    385
    Sounds like you have a small burr on the lip of the plunger hole. I would check, as it will take alot of force to push it out past any kind of burr.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master Nobade's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    SE WV
    Posts
    6,250
    Use a small ball cutter (like made for a dremel tool) that will fit in the ejector hole but not hit the side of the bolt and turn it gently by hand. A burr or brass buildup will make this happen. Next time don't load the ammo so hot.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    5,296
    No burr on the lip. I checked. Ammo stiff but not hot. I think the problem originated with the shoulder too far out. Snug closure accumulated brass. Will try some kind of grease pressure and spin the plunger in the bolt. Might as well order him a new plunger now 'cause this does not bode well for the future. Thanks, guys.

  6. #6
    In Remembrance


    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Michigan Thumb Area
    Posts
    5,948
    A gunsmith friend once told me a similar story like yours. A man was loading 7mm Rem. Mag. ammo using the same hot load data he had used from the `70`s. He bought new H4831 and new Fed. Mag. primers and new Speer 145 gr. "J" bullets as he had used all these same componets back then for his 1 gr. over MAX load. On every shot he got hard extraction, pierced primers and a jammed ejector on his Klinegunther K15 rifle. The smith had to replace the ejector spring 3 times for the guy as well as dig out the ejector once. When the evidence was shown for the cause the smith advised the man to start at a lower load level and work up. Powder and primer compounds change over the years due to different batches of chemicals being made and used. These changes can cause "squirrelly" pressure changes and do damage to the firearm. It may be the same brand and number of primer and powder you used back then, but the chemicals used in making them now has changed.Robert

  7. #7
    Boolit Master on Heavens Range
    felix's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    fort smith ar
    Posts
    9,679
    Happens all the time. Folks are spoiled by brand names, which says NOTHING about the object being purchased. Thanks to Madison Avenue NYC for the illusions of quality being a function of how well something is advertised. ... felix
    felix

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    5,296
    Well, this is a 7 Mag, but the load is less than published max. I've FL sized the brass and then resized in a collet type sizer to address the base near the belt. It only works at the base and not anywhere near the shoulder. What I think that has done is after a FL size and trim is to lengthen the brass to a point the shoulder is causing a tight fit. It's the tight fit I think is causing the brass to (tech term here) smoosh into the bolt face and abraid the base of the cartridge across the face of the bolt. Brass is rubbed into the plunger hole and thus gives the problem.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    2,796
    Well if it is just some brass causing the interference then that's a lot better than peened steel! I haven't tried it on the 700s I've had, but can you take a flat punch and push the ejector farther into the bolt? If so, I'd take a small mallet and the flat punch and tap the ejector in lightly and see if pops back up to at least the bolt face. Just keep doing that and it may loosen enough to remove it. Then take care of the problem bur or piece of brass or whatever is in there. That ejector is fairly hard material so would be a bugger to drill/tap to remove. So if the punch tapping doesn't work then maybe JB Weld a short rod the diameter of the ejector directly onto the ejector (acetone or alcohol cleaner on both surfaces helps). Then after curing gently rotate and pull up on ejector. If the JB holds well then maybe even chuck in a drill and rotate and pull. 2 cents

    This seems so simple but the bugger is that it is a blind hole with only a small coil spring in the bottom and nothing to get ahold of on top or push on from the bottom
    Trust but verify the honeyguide

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    5,296
    fouronesix,
    GREAT idea! Thanks. I'll give it a go. Have been "plunging" the button with no effect. There seems to be soooo much brass in there. It moves ever so little. The positive extraction force might work. It's a tiny surface, but I'll try.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    2,796
    725,
    Really hope it works! The JB weld idea would be the least drastic thing to try first. Also, hate to think of it, but the other possibility for the problem is that a piece or part of the coil spring has wedged between the ejector or ejector pin raceway and the bolt- if so then more drastic measures may be needed. The only thing then would be to use a very small carbide drill bit, drill into the ejector then use a tap or EZ Out directly into the ejector for more purchase to remove.- brute force option. For sure want to avoid messing with the bolt body itself.
    Last edited by fouronesix; 11-01-2012 at 10:59 AM.
    Trust but verify the honeyguide

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check