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Thread: Homemade Bullet lube for ML bullets

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Lead Fred's Avatar
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    From a friend off our ML Forum

    Stumpy's Moose Juice

    A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using

    Castor Oil 3 oz.
    Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
    Witch Hazel 4 oz.
    Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
    Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.

    I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry laid flat on wax paper in between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.



    Stumpy's Moose Snot

    A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.

    SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

    Beeswax 2 oz.
    Castor Oil 8 oz.
    Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.

    Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.



    Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.

    __________________________________________________ __________________________

    Ill be using this after I can no longer get T/C 1000+ and have used up the many tubes I now own.
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  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy 59sharps's Avatar
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    Been shooting BP for 20 yrs started w/ streight Crisco Last 15 yrs been using 50/50 Beeswax oliv oil. now thinking of trying peanut oil instead of olive oil. Why told it dose not scorch like olive oil.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    Docone31,
    My standard for all my BP lube, both patches and REAL and mini lube is easy and I have used the formula for 40 years. 1 part beeswax, 1 part tallow(deer is best but mutton OK) and however much peanut oil to get soft or hard as season dictates. Less oil in summer and more in winter etc...Olive oil is OK but peanut, sunflower and safflower oils have a higher smoke/burn temperature, about 100 degrees higher than olive oil but any of the veggie oils will work. Check the sale/trade forum for beeswax and other supplies. Home made lube is easy. I just melt it all together in a casserole in the microwave, remember it is HOT when you pour it into storage tubs or etc...
    10 ga
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  4. #24
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    Beeswax 50%, olive oil 45% , Murphys Oil soap (3%), Carnauba wax (2%) has been my standard for BP lube. works great.
    Reloading Data Project - (in retirement)
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  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Never mind I read further and found my answer.
    Last edited by qajaq59; 02-04-2010 at 03:50 PM.
    Qajaq59

    One slow hit is better then 500 quick misses. "It ain't the noise that kills 'em!!!!"

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    lube fun

    I'm having fun working up some lube recipes. There's so many to mess with, but in the end old bacon grease will get the job done (or spit). I found a store in Sacramento called Sacramento Beekeepers Supply, they have a lot of cool stuff. Unfiltered bw is $7 a .lb, not too bad. I got the filtered so I can make some lip balm while I'm at it. Also got anhydrous lanolin, man that stuff is concentrated and sticky stuff. Might put some of that in the mix. Mostly got it to add to my Ed's Red cleaning solvent for my modern guns, works great. I also like the REAL boolits, got me a combo mold, makes one RB and one REAL at a time, very handy. I'll try your recipe in my ROA, I need a HOT weather lube. Summers here stay in the 100's most of the time. Just finished reading an article in an old 1992 'Fouling Shot' about salt in mutton tallow, or any tallow for that matter. BP cartridge shooters using smokeless were getting pitting from the tallow in their lube 'til they figured out they still had to use BP cleaning techniques to remove the salts. Back to the PRB, I precut long strips of pillow ticking, roll them up and put 'em in a old 'chew' can full of lube, they soak it up and are good to go. For huntin' they can be precut to individual size to reduce reloading time, no patch cutting needed.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
    Newtire's Avatar
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    60% olive oil + 40% beeswax (organic, free-range bees only).

    To this, I add 1 teaspoon of ground up sweatsocks saved from my old high school locker and a squirt of aged carp gizzard juice to cut the smell if using Pyrodex.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    I'm surprise that what's known as Gatofeo's #1 lube hadn't been mentioned. It's a very old recipe that was found in an old gun magazine. The lube was used on the old outside lubricated bullets of the day.

    Made in the double boiler method with increments weighed the lube is:

    1 part mutton tallow
    1 part paraffin wax
    1/2 part bees wax

    Yes Gulf Wax has petroleum in it (not sure how much) but it does not leave any sort of residue that's typical.

    Gatofeo had claimed to try a tremendous number of lubes and found none did as well.

    I've used this on my cap n ball bullets, wads, and REALs and it works great. My POI doesn't change over a period of range time without wiping the bore (pistols as I've not shot many REALs yet).

    After soaking wads I poured the remainder into a soap mold.

  9. #29
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    I use emmert's on my REAL maxiballs, as well as in my 45lc loads. recently shot some through my Henry with 20" barrel, and I didn't detect any leading.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master


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    Foggy Mountain BearGuard Boot Waterproofing & Leather Waterproofing

    http://www.hotdoe.com/Merchant2/merc...gory_Code=BOOT

    I have been using this for patches and lube for conical for 20 + years. Bought at the Rite Aid store 12 cans at $2 each then. still have 5 cans. When I run out I will use Snowcap lard and bees wax melted into the same cans for lubing patches and bullets.

  11. #31
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    SSGOldfart's Avatar
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    I like a 55% beeswax/45%Olive oil in the warmer weather and a 85%Crisco/15%beeswax in the colder weather it is a little stiffer. But works great for the cap & ball pistol too.
    I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left.
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  12. #32
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    For patched roundball. Moose milk for the range. Moose milk that's high % Ballistol for hunting.

    For conicals and Miniés. Crisco when it's cool. Crisco stiffened with beeswax when it's hot.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master freedom475's Avatar
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    It is fun to make stuff yourself....BUT, I have wasted so much money and time using good bees wax to make mediocre lube. I have several lifetimes worth of sub-par lube.

    Do yourself and your pocketbook a favor and use SPG!!!....NOTHING pan lubes like SPG and NO lube in the world has won more championships than SPG.....SPG just works and it seems to last forever. It smells great too. And it works good for smokeless loads too, so you can even fill your luber-sizer with it.

  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy True.grit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newtire View Post
    60% olive oil + 40% beeswax (organic, free-range bees only).

    To this, I add 1 teaspoon of ground up sweatsocks saved from my old high school locker and a squirt of aged carp gizzard juice to cut the smell if using Pyrodex.
    Wow !!! That's the same recipe that I use. I'm getting low on sweatsocks though. I might have to use the old jock strap. Lol
    Buzzards got to eat, same as the worms.

  15. #35
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    ive used 5050 Crisco/beeswax for years and its allways done the job for all my black powder shooting.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check