“Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan
Srda25
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
thanks, that's the one I thought was the correct replacement, although I was considering the 40 amp in case I wanted to drive a much larger pot someday.
at any rate thanks again for the help.
“Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan
this is an old post, but never saw where anyone responded to the PID memory issue/question. Do the PIDs from Auber remember their last settings or must it be reset each time it is powered up?
I am expecting to receive my components from Auber in a couple days and just trying to get my head around what to expect. thanks in advance, OLey
“Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan
need some help wiring the SSR for my PID controller, it's terminals do not match the ones described in Horse's wiring diagram from way back when. I bought the SRDA25 from Auber electronics but it came without instructions and none can be found on the Auber site for their SSRs.
Terminals 3 and 4 are the low voltage control inputs from the PID, while terminals 1 and 2 are 110 volt. Which terminal #1 or #2 is the line or voltage into the switch, leaving the other for voltage output to the heating element?
Attachment 233194
I also have a question about wiring from the PID to the thermocouple. I have a K type female thermocouple panel mount connector and a K type thermocouple with male plug. Can I use regular 24 AWG solid wire between the PID and the female panel mount connector or do I need to order specific K type extension wire? Below is a pick of 18 AWG wire I temporarily ran (yellow and red) that have now been replaced with 24 AWG wire.
Attachment 233196
Last edited by oley55; 01-01-2019 at 09:24 PM. Reason: update AWG wire size
“Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan
12
34
that is the screws on your SSR
1 is incoming power
2 is outgoing power
3 and 4 should have - and + marks on them.
they are polarity sensitive so make sure you get them right
now on your TC wiring between the panel mount and the PID.
By the book you should use the correct K type wiring or your temps will be off.
To be totally honest on our application it shouldn't matter too much.
many boo-koo thanks.
“Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan
Can you cut a little bit of wire from your thermocouple and use that. They are usually really long anyway.
I thought of that and I am waiting to see. I ordered the thermocouple from Balistic Creations because he has the 90 degree bend for sitting in the salt bath case holder. From his pics the cable does not look to be way long thou. http://ballisticrecreations.ca/
“Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan
I agree, that just using regular wire for your thermocouple hookup should be fine. The first one I did used regular wire inside the box. For all of the rest, I cut about 5" off of the thermocouple wire and used it on the inside. comparing the two in 750F lead showed about 1-2F difference.
I put a small 24VDC fan in mine and it helped improve the life of the small parts(switches, connectors...)
I just hooked the fan up to the control wires for the SSR instead of finding a small power supply, or building one.
I have used the Rex C100 for a few, they worked great until I bought the next batch that would only display in C. So I've got a few of them just sitting in a box waiting for a project. I also used the MyPin PID and it was very easy to setup and use.
Last edited by lar45; 01-07-2019 at 11:25 AM.
finally received my salts, rack, and thermocoupler yesterday and have bee playing with my setup.
Initial observations are:
!. after a couple cycles in Auto-tune mode my PID is holding steady on set temp. Using ice water as a check point, 22 gauge wire from the PID to the coupler connector still gave me a thermocoupler reading of 33C. (good enough for this non-rocket science project)
2. initial melting of the salts is touch and go in regards to exceeding max temp of 590C. Until the salts melt, no good way to insert the thermocoupler and then hold in place. My first go resulted in 685C!!!! Still alive, but generated some serious concerns. You gotta get that thermocoupler into the salt solution as soon as possible!
3. removing the solidified salt puck after cooling, not so easy. With super high Florida humidity, leaving salt in the pot seemed inadvisable. I ended up placing a flat headed bolt in the pot and letting the salt cool/solidify around it, but salt puck still wouldn't pop out. Placed the whole unit in the freezer for a few minutes and was finally able to get the salt puck to pop loose. Note: the bolt should be just a bit longer than the depth of the salt, or it will not fit in the original plastic tub
4. ended up using 525C as my set point with a 6 second soak time. A bit disconcerting to not see the telltale annealing discoloration. Can't help but wonder if the cases are actually being annealed or not. ????????
“Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan
Problem is that ice water should be closer to 0 C not 33 C
33 C is a little bit over 91 F!!!
You have a major problem.
685 C is over 1200 F
By chance do you mean F?
well dang it, I assumed the PID was operating in C out of the box. the 33 degrees should have been a really huge indicator. Pretty sure now why there was no annealing discoloration, because I wasn't even close to the target temp.
pretty danged embarrassing, or as Roger Rabbit said, "what a maroon!"
and thanks for being so tactful in your reply.
Last edited by oley55; 01-17-2019 at 09:23 PM.
“Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
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