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Thread: Pid temp control finished !!!

  1. #81
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post
    Buy quality parts and you don’t have that issue.
    It’s when you buy the cheapest parts you can instead of buying quality parts is when you run into those issues
    I was going to purchase the exact components identified in this thread from Auber electronics. I am not in the world of electronics and wouldn't know if the components used are quality or not. With one exception, the SSR part number listed is no longer available.
    “Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan


  2. #82
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    Srda25
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  3. #83
    Boolit Man
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    thanks, that's the one I thought was the correct replacement, although I was considering the 40 amp in case I wanted to drive a much larger pot someday.

    at any rate thanks again for the help.
    “Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan


  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim4065 View Post
    We have the same PID. This puppy is set up right by Auber - if you've got the same TC. I heat mine using straight power (Lee pot at 10) then plug into the PID and switch it on. The initial setting is 800 - just use the down arrow to lower it to 650 or whatever you want. Press and hold the button 'til the "Auto" light starts blinking - the PID will set it's own parameters. When it stops blinking you're cooking. Try it for awhile before messing with your own parameters - mine keeps pretty close to the set temp in the Waage (which has no thermostat). I will probably have to spend more time with it in the 20# Lee - right now I have too many variables changing to be sure of what's happening. The PID seems to have no memory - you have to re-set the parameters (auto or manually) each time you start it up. Or (high probability) I'm doing it wrong.
    this is an old post, but never saw where anyone responded to the PID memory issue/question. Do the PIDs from Auber remember their last settings or must it be reset each time it is powered up?

    I am expecting to receive my components from Auber in a couple days and just trying to get my head around what to expect. thanks in advance, OLey
    “Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan


  5. #85
    Boolit Man
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    help with wiring for the SSR and thermocouple

    need some help wiring the SSR for my PID controller, it's terminals do not match the ones described in Horse's wiring diagram from way back when. I bought the SRDA25 from Auber electronics but it came without instructions and none can be found on the Auber site for their SSRs.

    Terminals 3 and 4 are the low voltage control inputs from the PID, while terminals 1 and 2 are 110 volt. Which terminal #1 or #2 is the line or voltage into the switch, leaving the other for voltage output to the heating element?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I also have a question about wiring from the PID to the thermocouple. I have a K type female thermocouple panel mount connector and a K type thermocouple with male plug. Can I use regular 24 AWG solid wire between the PID and the female panel mount connector or do I need to order specific K type extension wire? Below is a pick of 18 AWG wire I temporarily ran (yellow and red) that have now been replaced with 24 AWG wire.

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    Last edited by oley55; 01-01-2019 at 09:24 PM. Reason: update AWG wire size
    “Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan


  6. #86
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    that is the screws on your SSR
    1 is incoming power
    2 is outgoing power

    3 and 4 should have - and + marks on them.
    they are polarity sensitive so make sure you get them right

    now on your TC wiring between the panel mount and the PID.
    By the book you should use the correct K type wiring or your temps will be off.
    To be totally honest on our application it shouldn't matter too much.

  7. #87
    Boolit Man
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    many boo-koo thanks.
    “Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan


  8. #88
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    Can you cut a little bit of wire from your thermocouple and use that. They are usually really long anyway.

  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Valley-Shooter View Post
    Can you cut a little bit of wire from your thermocouple and use that. They are usually really long anyway.
    I thought of that and I am waiting to see. I ordered the thermocouple from Balistic Creations because he has the 90 degree bend for sitting in the salt bath case holder. From his pics the cable does not look to be way long thou. http://ballisticrecreations.ca/
    “Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan


  10. #90
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    I agree, that just using regular wire for your thermocouple hookup should be fine. The first one I did used regular wire inside the box. For all of the rest, I cut about 5" off of the thermocouple wire and used it on the inside. comparing the two in 750F lead showed about 1-2F difference.
    I put a small 24VDC fan in mine and it helped improve the life of the small parts(switches, connectors...)
    I just hooked the fan up to the control wires for the SSR instead of finding a small power supply, or building one.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have used the Rex C100 for a few, they worked great until I bought the next batch that would only display in C. So I've got a few of them just sitting in a box waiting for a project. I also used the MyPin PID and it was very easy to setup and use.
    Last edited by lar45; 01-07-2019 at 11:25 AM.

  11. #91
    Boolit Man
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    initial observations

    finally received my salts, rack, and thermocoupler yesterday and have bee playing with my setup.

    Initial observations are:
    !. after a couple cycles in Auto-tune mode my PID is holding steady on set temp. Using ice water as a check point, 22 gauge wire from the PID to the coupler connector still gave me a thermocoupler reading of 33C. (good enough for this non-rocket science project)
    2. initial melting of the salts is touch and go in regards to exceeding max temp of 590C. Until the salts melt, no good way to insert the thermocoupler and then hold in place. My first go resulted in 685C!!!! Still alive, but generated some serious concerns. You gotta get that thermocoupler into the salt solution as soon as possible!
    3. removing the solidified salt puck after cooling, not so easy. With super high Florida humidity, leaving salt in the pot seemed inadvisable. I ended up placing a flat headed bolt in the pot and letting the salt cool/solidify around it, but salt puck still wouldn't pop out. Placed the whole unit in the freezer for a few minutes and was finally able to get the salt puck to pop loose. Note: the bolt should be just a bit longer than the depth of the salt, or it will not fit in the original plastic tub
    4. ended up using 525C as my set point with a 6 second soak time. A bit disconcerting to not see the telltale annealing discoloration. Can't help but wonder if the cases are actually being annealed or not. ????????
    “Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan


  12. #92
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    Problem is that ice water should be closer to 0 C not 33 C
    33 C is a little bit over 91 F!!!

    You have a major problem.
    685 C is over 1200 F

    By chance do you mean F?

  13. #93
    Boolit Man
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    well dang it, I assumed the PID was operating in C out of the box. the 33 degrees should have been a really huge indicator. Pretty sure now why there was no annealing discoloration, because I wasn't even close to the target temp.

    pretty danged embarrassing, or as Roger Rabbit said, "what a maroon!"

    and thanks for being so tactful in your reply.
    Last edited by oley55; 01-17-2019 at 09:23 PM.
    “Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan


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BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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GC Gas Check