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Thread: Pid temp control finished !!!

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold Horsemen's Avatar
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    Pid temp control finished !!!

    Here is my version, of the electronic temp control. First it was going to control 220 only. The more I thought about it, it should control both 220v and 110v.
    Here is my material list.

    http://auberins.com/
    Universal 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller Model: SYL-2362
    K type high temperature thermocouple for heat treatment Model: WRNK-191 (for lead pot)
    K Type Thermocouple (3 ft. cable) Model: TC-K3 (for lube heater)
    25A SSR Model: RS1A40D25
    Heat Sink for 25 A SSR Model: HS25

    LOCAL ELECTRONICS STORE
    5 x 6.75 Project box
    2 CONTACT LOCKING PLUGS MALE AND FEMALE (for thermo coupler)

    HOME STORE
    220v 4 PRONG 20 AMP PLUG MALE
    220v 4 PRONG 20 AMP PLUG FEMALE
    25 12GA 3 WIRE EXTENSION CORD
    8 16ga 3 WIRE 110 CORD
    Switch

    Here is the wiring diagram



    Inside view



    Back view



    Hooked to the pot and working


  2. #2
    Boolit Master



    shooterg's Avatar
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    Now build the "poorman's" model with 1 thermocouple for the pot, 110 only, and sell it to the masses(me and others who fear electocution while trying to make one).

  3. #3
    Boolit Mold Horsemen's Avatar
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    If you want, I can post a wiring diagram for a 110v only, it would be a bit simpler. The cost would be about 150.00 in Materials, less depending on your box. For an extra 40.00 you could go both 220 and 110.

  4. #4
    Cast Boolits Owner



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    Would you post the 110V version for those who wish to build that unit only?

    Robert
    "Things always get better once thought, time, and money are applied in the correct amounts at the correct time"
    - No_1 -

    "The only way to deal with an unfree world is to become so absolutely free that your very existence is an act of rebellion."
    - Albert Camus -

  5. #5
    Boolit Mold Horsemen's Avatar
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    Here is the 110v diagram



    G1=GREEN WIRE
    C1=WHITE WIRE
    L1=BLACK WIRE

    TO ADD THE POWER SWITCH TAP INTO THE L1 GOING TO THE PID CONTROL

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    The only things that I would change is to add a 110V outlet to the 220v version and to use a ventilated cabinet to help the SSR live a long happy life.

    Jack

  7. #7
    Boolit Master ddeaton's Avatar
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    good job Horsemen, I knew you could do it!

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Horsemen
    Do you have part numbers for the PID control and the SSR, and the thermocouple and it's plug??????
    Paul G.
    Once I was young, now I am old and in between went by way to fast.

    The end move in politics is always to pick up a gun.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Mold Horsemen's Avatar
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    Jack you are Wright. I do need to machine some vents into the case. I just haven’t got to it yet. Paul the parts list is in the 1st post. Auberins website is a little hard to navigate, the part numbers are on the product page. I think they do that so you read the description before you buy. They have many different choices for all there stuff, just read the usages and you will be fine. As for the thermocouple plug, be careful, the one I got, was case grounded. (I wasn’t paying attention.) I hade to spend a little time on the lathe, and make an insulator out of an old screwdriver handle. Auberins does have a plug on the last page of there thermocouple page. I hope this helps.

    Regards Mike

  10. #10
    Boolit Master ddeaton's Avatar
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    Rather than vents in the case, you could also bolt a piece of alum on the outside of the case to heatsink the SSR. That is how they uprate some of them anyway. Just another idea, I dont like venting unless really needed, always lets dirt and crap in. I like the box you mounted it in, where did you appropriate it from?
    Thanks,
    Danny



    Quote Originally Posted by Horsemen View Post
    Jack you are Wright. I do need to machine some vents into the case. I just haven’t got to it yet. Paul the parts list is in the 1st post. Auberins website is a little hard to navigate, the part numbers are on the product page. I think they do that so you read the description before you buy. They have many different choices for all there stuff, just read the usages and you will be fine. As for the thermocouple plug, be careful, the one I got, was case grounded. (I wasn’t paying attention.) I hade to spend a little time on the lathe, and make an insulator out of an old screwdriver handle. Auberins does have a plug on the last page of there thermocouple page. I hope this helps.

    Regards Mike

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    dragonrider's Avatar
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    Well so much for my observational abilities.

    Thanks Horsemen
    Paul G.
    Once I was young, now I am old and in between went by way to fast.

    The end move in politics is always to pick up a gun.
    -- R. Buckminster Fuller

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Sweet!

    It appears that you have done a very tidy assembly. I have begun to gather the parts for one of the devices. Thanks for the pictures.



    http://home.comcast.net/~videodog/
    ph4570

  13. #13
    Boolit Master

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    Is there a cheaper way to breadboard a PID than buying one ?? Say using a PIC chip ? Or use a PC with a breakout board ?? I already have a couple breakout boards handy anyway.

    Bill
    Last edited by Willbird; 03-25-2009 at 09:02 AM.
    Both ends WHAT a player

  14. #14
    Boolit Master ddeaton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willbird View Post
    Is there a cheaper way to breadboard a PID than buying one ?? Say using a PIC chip ? Or use a PC with a breakout board ?? I already have a couple breakout boards handy anyway.

    Bill

    If you have the time, you can program a PIC and breadboard it. You would need analog for the thermocouple input and the big pain in the rear would be some kind of display interface to see the temp and the setpoint.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master hunter64's Avatar
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    Horsemen: I went to the website and read the spec's on the PID controllers and one has a 10A (1200 w) relay built in to the model SYL-2342 . Just wondering why you went with the non-relay style and added an external SSR ? For added power handling?

    My Lee pot has a 700w heater in it so the 2342 controller should handle that no problem so I was thinking of copying your design and omitting the SSR and heat sink.

    Looking at the instructions it doesn't look that hard to program, is it?

  16. #16
    Boolit Master

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    What are my odds of electrocution if I can't understand a thing in this thread so far other than this thing will control the temp. of my pot?

    Seriously, that is a great job. I'm always impressed by the ingenuity on this board.
    Most people would sooner die than think, in fact, they do so. -B. Russell

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy jeff423's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hunter64 View Post
    Horsemen: I went to the website and read the spec's on the PID controllers and one has a 10A (1200 w) relay built in to the model SYL-2342 . Just wondering why you went with the non-relay style and added an external SSR ? For added power handling?

    My Lee pot has a 700w heater in it so the 2342 controller should handle that no problem so I was thinking of copying your design and omitting the SSR and heat sink.

    Looking at the instructions it doesn't look that hard to program, is it?
    In general you want to use an SSR because the PID controller will cycle the heating element several times a minute to hold the temperature. An SSR is essentially a big transistor and will last for millions of cycles. A mechanical relay normally has a life cycle of 100,000 cycles.

    Heat is the leading cause of failure in SSR's. As they warm up their amp rating goes down.

    If you use an SSR get a big one and don't skip the heat sink. I currently use a 25 amp ssr with a heat sink and cooling fan on my 700 watt Lee. (belt and suspenders) I could use a 10 amp SSR but a 25 is just a little bit more expensive and gives 2.5 times the power handling capability.



    Jeff

  18. #18
    Boolit Master hunter64's Avatar
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    I have never done any work with a PID but looking at the instructions the 2342 already has an ssr built into it but I see your reasoning to go over board with the design. I usually like to go at least 2 times the rated amount also so the 25 amp certainly wont hurt anything.

  19. #19
    Boolit Mold Horsemen's Avatar
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    Go with the SSR. If you have a large box the 25 or even the 40 amp SSR will be al you will need.

  20. #20
    Boolit Mold Horsemen's Avatar
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    If you can get a aluminun box. It will help with the heat of the heat sink and SSR.
    My box is 5"x6.75" The box was at the local electronics store. It had a lot of dust on it , talked him down to 25 bucks. He had it for 80. And by the dust it was there for some time.
    Last edited by Horsemen; 03-27-2009 at 09:19 PM.

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