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Thread: finished the auto annealer today

  1. #81
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by 686 View Post
    what motor did you use for the cast turner?
    The one in it now is a 30 rpm identical to this 200 rpm. The 30 spins a little slow and the 200 needs some type of speed control to slow it down. Fortunately for me, BIGGDAWG already tried everything, so I just used his parts list.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/320916490243...84.m1439.l2649

    This one looks promising, too.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/30mm-Gearbox...item51a4b1de70

    Something like the 20.95 PWM speed control on this page was recommended so the speed on the case spin can be controlled independent of the blade speed. I have two and have tested them. They work good. Similar ones can be found cheaper. You can set the power at 12v and vary the speed of each motor. I'll install them as soon as I finish the case feeder.

    http://store.qkits.com/category.cfm/DCMOTOR

  2. #82
    Boolit Mold
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    You guys are so cool. I am making an annealing machince now using a phono turntable. I'll post when I get it completed.

  3. #83
    Boolit Bub
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    How long do the gas bottles last?

  4. #84
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
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    I use a 20# tank and it gets used up on a grill or heater before the annealer torches have a chance.

  5. #85
    Boolit Mold
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    jmorris: I missed your question about the power supply. It's just a variable power supply I picked up off ebay. I switched to a 12v/5amp power supply I got from Walmart for $15 (looks like a laptop computer cord). It's hooked to two switches and two PWM's so I can control the speed of each motor independently. Before I was doing it by lowering the voltage, but now they run at 12v each. Here is a new video of the completed project using a Lee collater. If you are interested I'll post some pictures as soon as I can get back into photobucket (the site is down). In the video the case spinner wasn't turned on until the second round hit the flame. No reason, I just forgot to turn it on.



    ETA: The case motor is a 200 rpm. The spinner plate is a .45 case gauge. It was probably spinning a little too fast in the video which causes some of the off centered spin. The white stuff on the cases was Tempilaq. The cases have been run through a few times for testing and will be discarded.
    Last edited by RLR350; 12-22-2012 at 02:12 AM.

  6. #86
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
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    If you are interested I'll post some pictures as soon as I can get back into photobucket
    That would be great. Could you also post more details about your adjustable power supply?

  7. #87
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    That would be great. Could you also post more details about your adjustable power supply?
    The variable power supply is a 0-18 volt Atten. It was about $50. The link to one is below. Sometimes it will delay starting; you have to dial it down and then back up. I originally got it so I could adjust the speed by adjusting the voltage. It works fine, but is bulky and not necessary.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATTEN-APS150...item23171d1ce5

    I switched to a simple 12 volt/5 amp which runs about $15. It is wired into two switches, two PWM's and then each motor. No delay, less bulky and with the PWM's each motor has full power (12 volts), but speed can be adjusted from 0 - max rpms idependently.

    http://www.walmart.com/ip/Wagan-5-Am...tlyViewedItems

    Here are some photos of the the electrical box. It looks complicated, but isn't. It works great. The nice thing is the dials can be left in a position so you can retain the speed of each motor that you like for a particular type of brass and adjust the torches slightly if needed.

    Overview of the outside of the electrical box. (The bottom PWM knob is off - you can see it in the next photo)


    Front of panel. Made from lexan cut/drilled and painted.


    Rear of panel. I think if you enlarge it you can follow the wiring.


    Back of the electrical installed. The new power supply can be seen in the bottom held in place with a spring (like the battery on a Chrony Beta).


    And this is where the wires lead to. Each of the two motors is controlled by a switch and PWM.
    Last edited by RLR350; 12-22-2012 at 07:35 PM.

  8. #88
    Boolit Mold
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    Here are some more pictures of the build. I don't weld, so the original thought was to use jmorris' blade and plans, but adapt it to wood, commonly available metal (in other words Home Depot or Lowes) and screws/glue. Although the annealing process involves torches, the heat doesn't really transfer past the first part of the torch holders which means everything else stays cool and safe from burning.

    Here is the finished product - the Lee collater has a paper funnel and 1/4" threaded bolt center post mod (seen on many you tube videos). I'll eventually change the paper part to a thin plastic. It creates a greater angle to handle the .223 case more reliably.



    The upper deck is 1/2" oak plywood bordered by 3/4" oak strips dado'd, mitered and glued. The black wood screws are decorative at this point. I just used them to clamp it together while the glue dried. The aluminum deck on the oak plywood is a mason's hawk from Lowes - 13" x 13" - easily workable and provides a smooth surface for the brass to travel on.



    Under the blade I used two layers/pieces of lexan to provide support. It makes the blade stable. The screws holding the platform in allow the lexan to rotate, but not move into the area under the brass holes of the blade.



    On top of the spinner platform I used a piece of plastic made from a credit card to keep errant cases from sliding off. I eventually re cut a new style hole in the aluminum deck that supports the spinner platform (keeps it from wobbling). The platform is a .45 case gage attached to the 3/16" motor arbor using a nylon bushing. The photo with the red plastic is the original hole. The next two are the final style hole and I used clear lexan instead of the red credit card (not for color, I had to change it and only had lexan available.) If you look close at the clear lexan where it would touch the spinning brass, it is filed to an angle. This allows the lexan to just barely touch the brass otherwise without the angle the lexan tends to hold the brass from spinning. Mounting the motor on the aluminum plate allows for adjust-ability. Since the holes under the wing nuts are larger than the screws the motor can be moved side to side, fore and aft a little, until it is in the proper position to not rub the hole in the aluminum.



    This is a top view of the feeder arm and the Lee collater holder. Also a close up of the feed door post. The arms on the door post were made from left over square tube used for the torch holders. The aluminum pieces are just strap aluminum cut and drilled. This took a little time to make and adjust. The 1/4" rod that activates the door when the blade spins is held in place with a small set screw and can be adjusted to allow more space for larger brass.




    See next post for final photos.
    Last edited by RLR350; 12-23-2012 at 02:17 AM.

  9. #89
    Boolit Mold
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    A couple more photos of the case feeder in the process of being built. Also, a picture of the basic arm. The door side arm (moving one) has to be really short past the half circle otherwise the cases will hit it as they exit. The upper arm is a little longer past the half circle to allow room for the aluminum deck to be screwed on.



    And finally, the Lee collater arm support. It was an after thought other wise I would have planned for it in the original deck, but it worked out. It is height adjustable in case I do taller .308. I don't have any brass except .223, but I think I allowed enough adjust-ability in the whole design to quickly change over to other brass. The Lee feeder will be the limitation.



    That's it. Sorry to bore you if I did. In the end the project was a lot of work! It cost more because of trial and error. I'd do a few things differently, too. In the end, it's fun to watch and does a great job annealing - I'm using Tempilaq 450 and 650 to do test runs.

    Again, Thanks to jmorris and BIGGDAWG who designed and tested different things. You guys are true masters at crafting things. Hopefully some others that don't have welding skills or ability can use the ideas here to build their own from wood.

  10. #90
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Wow, that is quite impressive! I am still thinking about how much longer it would actually take to make one with casefeed without a welder...hats off to you.

  11. #91
    Boolit Master
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    Has any one else made an annealer like these ? Got pictures and info ?

  12. #92
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    Walter Laich's Avatar
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    If I am repeating a question forgive me--I checked all 5 pages above....

    could I do 45 Colt cases or are they too short? I'm running into losing 5-10% due to splits (old brass) and besides that always wanted an annealer.

    I would be happy to build one but only if it would handle the 45 Colt brass.

    thanks
    walt
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  13. #93
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walter Laich View Post
    If I am repeating a question forgive me--I checked all 5 pages above....

    could I do 45 Colt cases or are they too short? I'm running into losing 5-10% due to splits (old brass) and besides that always wanted an annealer.

    I would be happy to build one but only if it would handle the 45 Colt brass.

    thanks
    walt
    I will put one on mine and see it may be a little short. i can do a 40mm tall case with it and still had a little room to go.

  14. #94
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    Necessity is the mother of invention! Excellent work !
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  15. #95
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walter Laich View Post
    If I am repeating a question forgive me--I checked all 5 pages above....

    could I do 45 Colt cases or are they too short? I'm running into losing 5-10% due to splits (old brass) and besides that always wanted an annealer.

    I would be happy to build one but only if it would handle the 45 Colt brass.

    thanks
    walt


    just checked and i could do a 45 colt on mine it is the shortest one i could do on mine. my colt case measures around 32 mm

    i am using a jamb nut which is thinner than a normal nut on the top to hold my threaded rod for the arms in place. if you are using a regular nut you won't get as low.

  16. #96
    Boolit Master


    Walter Laich's Avatar
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    thanks biggdawg--gives me something else to build now

    walt
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  17. #97
    Boolit Master


    Walter Laich's Avatar
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    In the hunter/gather mode, assembling all the items I'll need. Got the major one ordered so now we wait.

    Thinking of using ball transfers to keep the blade from wobbling. Three, 120 degrees apart would keep the blade nice and level. Check p 30 on this pdf catelog: http://www.skf.com/binary/12-97863/B...sfer-units.pdf
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  18. #98
    So all in how much? (minus the case feeder)

  19. #99
    Boolit Master


    Walter Laich's Avatar
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    These are drive out prices with tax and shipping (as necessary) included:

    spinner motor $10.80
    Dayton 2L009 $72.37 (tax & shipping)
    MX033: PWM DC Motor Speed Control $52.63 two of these for main wheel and spinner
    Wagan 5 Amp AC to 12v DC Power Adapter $17.32 (tax & shipping)
    Saw blade $60.00
    3/8" metal wheel caster balls $16.91 Going to use these to keep saw blade level
    Hawk (base plate) $13.00
    total: $243.03

    still have heat indicating liquids 700 and 400 degrees
    torches (would have to buy them whether built or bought annealer
    Last edited by Walter Laich; 02-01-2013 at 08:15 PM.
    NRA Life
    USPSA L1314
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    RVN War Games, 2nd Place

  20. #100
    Dayton 2L009 for $47.60 at http://www.zorotools.com/g/00075762/k-2L009/. Also if you add some thumb screws or something to get your total price above $50 you get free shipping. With coupon code Zmail4u I got a $5.00 discount! I have learned to do a Google search for coupon codes when ordering online to save a few $.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check