Melting pot (building your own)

[HeavyMetal]

Didn't mean to suggest you switch horses just that you might keep the idea in the back of you head while you were searching for components for the current project.

I think we've all stumbled over something while looking for something else!

I can also apreciate not wanting to have to many irons in the fire at one time!

[Texasflyboy]

There is a great post on this somewhere if someone can post a link.

You mean this homemade bottom pour casting pot that uses off the shelf components?

The original Thread here on Cast Boolits

And my webpage devoted to the Cast Boolits Model 1 Pot (Which I need to update soon):

Cast Boolits Model 1

[pick]

Pick,

You might want to check into industrial heater suppliers. There is a company in Battle Creek, Michigan that forms heaters for plastic injection mold hot manifolds. Some of the heaters are pretty intricate in shape. A company I worked for had some made up for a foreign hot manifold at a cost the was significantly cheaper than buying the replacements from the Chinese company. At the moment, the company's name escapes me but I can get the info if you are interested. IIRC, the heaters we had formed up were in the 1000 watt range. These heaters had both wire connections on one end of the heater on some and some had one wire connection on each end. Just a thought.

Edd

Edd,

If you can come up with a name a least that would be good. Also if you were to land a telephone number and contact name the would be best of all This sounds exactly like what I am looking for.

I am doing as much research as possible prior to starting a 'hammering'

Thanks in advance

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[pick]

You mean this homemade bottom pour casting pot that uses off the shelf components?

The original Thread here on Cast Boolits

And my webpage devoted to the Cast Boolits Model 1 Pot (Which I need to update soon):

Cast Boolits Model 1

Texasflyboy,

Thank you. I am on my way to look at those links and see what you have already blazed on this trail.

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[pick]

To All,

I have come to find out that this is a VERY economical bunch here I have been building semi-custom and custom stuff for customers for over 20 years and consider myself pretty good at sourcing things at good prices. Well I have been put to shame so far on this project. Those that have gone before me have worked the suppliers very good and I have not been able to source anything at any substantial discount then what has already been posted on this site

I was hoping to get the pricing of all components under $100. Right now it looks as if I am right at the $100 mark plus or minus $5. This is saying a lot about the folks here. Seems that just about everyone really knows how to get the most for their time and money.

Still, all considered, $100 is not outrageous. I went and toured the Magma web site and they have some great stuff but the price is up there also. I am going ahead with this project mainly because I want to build my own (that is a least half the fun).

Just to let everyone know where I currently stand with the 'build' I am nailing down the components that I plan to use and the feature set of the melter. For review here is the list.

FEATURES
1. 40 to 50 lbs of lead melt capacity bottom pour
2. PID temperature control built in, up to 1000 F, set limit user defined
3. Changeable nozzles, even when loaded and at temp (if you dare)
4. Removable pot (no tools required), Stainless Steel (apx 6.5 inch opening)
5. Universal A/C power input from 90 to 265 Volts
6. A real on/off switch that totally isolates all electrical power from the machine
8. Power ON indicator (light)
7. Adjustable mold guide
Optional. Warming plate for preheating of molds with own independent temperature control

Components
1. Solid State electrical system
2. Digital temperature and set point read outs
3. Stainless steel and Aluminum construction for majority of product
4. Easy access and replacement of all major parts.

Now that I have that out of the way ... the only area I am still sourcing is those d*** heating elements..... Anyone ???

Hope to nail down the part sources this weekend and pulling all the material together next week and working on the physical layout and design. The week after that (23 March) start banging away to build it. Lets see how well my plan holds together.

[Springfield]

I always liked the moveble mould guide on my RCBS pot, so when the Magma had a non movable one at the wrong height, I had to do something. I just flipped the Magma guide upside down to get it out of the way but still have the support, then drilled holes in both sides and ran a steel rod through it. Spring clipped the rod on the outboard ends to keep it in place and Voila! Mould guide. To adjust it you just need a set of holes at the height you want. Not as adjustable as the RCBS but I deal almost exclusively with LEE 6 bangers so it isn't a problem. Nice thing is the rod rolls and it is easy to get the spilled lead off of it, unlike the big flat plate the Magma came with. Little things can make a big difference when you use the tool quite a bit, like I do. My 40 lb Magma uses a band heater, or maybe 2, not sure, haven't been in there lately.

[Springfield]

A band heater site. http://www.thermalcorp.com/band_heaters_mica_stand.php

[waco]

wow!.........after that, im gonna grab 2 advill and a cold beer.......just a tick over my head....lol

lee 10# pot.......just add and cast and add and cast..........call me simple.......
waco

[HeavyMetal]

Pick:
Looks like your on your way!

Hopin you post pic's as you go along, not sure I'm up to this kind of challange but if you keep it second grade enough I just might stumble through one if money gets better.

Good luck!

[pick]

Well nothing is ever as planned ... should know that by now at my age.

An update... I have parts collected and ordered and on the way. Have the rough layout and fabrication worked out. The biggest issue I am having is the power input / supply for this thing.

I really want to have an 'universal' input (86 to 265 volt ac) so you never have to worry about what type outlet you need. Just use the plug for the outlet you have and go for it.

You would thing (at least I did) in this day and age when computers are able to be plugged in no matter where you are in the world and they are mass producing them by the gazillions that working up something for this melter would be straight forward ... WELL WRONG ... I may have to go with out it. The only real trouble is that all the easy to come by and low price heating elements are made for 220 to 250 volt range and I really do not want to need 220 Volt outlet. .....

Despite all this the parts are arriving or have been found locally for free. I am going to take tomorrow (friday) and the weekend to see what I can do about this 'power supply' issue and make a decision and live with. I will be dusting off the digital camera and making sure i have good batteries for it. Hopefully the last of the items will be arriving next week and I can start building.

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[SciFiJim]

Your mentioning computers being universal brought up an idea. How about adapting a power supply from a computer?

Check the pricewatch.com website here for power supplies.

[Charlie Sometimes]

Sounds like a pot that I would want for my very own!
If you get to sellin' some, let me know.

[pick]

Your mentioning computers being universal brought up an idea. How about adapting a power supply from a computer?

Check the pricewatch.com website here for power supplies.

Well that was the Idea but there is no way to tie them in with the PID which is the main point of doing this in the first place. Also the output voltage of the computer supplies would mean having a semi-custom heating element (more money and time).

You know how it goes ... solve one issue and create two others

On the issue of potentially offering this build to others, that is the very reason I have spent the time and research to source the parts and cost. If it all works out then I should be able to come up with a melter for casting that offers PID (fine) control and easy function at a reasonable cost.

Wish me luck you all ... as I am about to now leap with both feet

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[hpdrifter]

I don't know how to draw it on the computer for posting, but you could put one leg of 220 thru a relay. The nuetral(N) to the N of the relay coil and jumper it to a common input of the relay and feed thru a normally closed contact. Put one leg of 220 to the hot(coil) and jumper it to a common input of the relay and fed thru a normally open contact. The other leg of 220 would feed thru to one termination of the heating element. If the second leg of the 220 is dead(110), then all you"d get is 110 with the nuetral feeding thru the normally closed contact and the first hot at the element(or switching device). Should the second leg of the wiring(220) be present the relay will be activated and the nuetral opened, and the second leg fed to the other end of another heating element thru a now closed contact.

Just make sure that if plugged into 110 the hot goes to the switching device/element and the neutral goes to relay and also jumps to the control system for a completed circuit.

Might need two cords with a common attachment port at the machine and be very careful about polarization.


Maybe more complicated than you want, but food for thought.

[Heavy lead]

I don't know how to draw it on the computer for posting, but you could put one leg of 220 thru a relay. The nuetral(N) to the N of the relay coil and jumper it to a common input of the relay and feed thru a normally closed contact. Put one leg of 220 to the hot(coil) and jumper it to a common input of the relay and fed thru a normally open contact. The other leg of 220 would feed thru to one termination of the heating element. If the second leg of the 220 is dead(110), then all you"d get is 110 with the nuetral feeding thru the normally closed contact and the first hot at the element(or switching device). Should the second leg of the wiring(220) be present the relay will be activated and the nuetral opened, and the second leg fed to the other end of another heating element thru a now closed contact.

Just make sure that if plugged into 110 the hot goes to the switching device/element and the neutral goes to relay and also jumps to the control system for a completed circuit.

Might need two cords with a common attachment port at the machine and be very careful about polarization.


Maybe more complicated than you want, but food for thought.

A Honeywell T 8222 two pole with 120vac coil?

[hpdrifter]

if rated for proper amperage, yeah.

[hpdrifter]

hope this turns out legible.

[Gerald C]

I use a pid controler it was a night mare to program. I had my brother help me (retired EE) and it still was a head scracher. I used a dpdt 10 amp relay with the poles tied parallel to control the pot. these controller are not cheep. (250.00) got mine used for nothing. I wish there was a controller out there with out all the bells & whisles, so a dummy like me can program them
Gerald C

[thebigmac]

WTB=THERMOSTAT FOR AN OLD SAECO OR LYMAN CASTING POT. PM ANY INFORMATION PLEASE. THANKS, Mac

[pick]

Well time for update #2.

Got a good cast iron pot for the same or lower price I could get for a steel pot and the manufacture is willing to work with me to get a special 'group' price if need be. That part finally came together. I have a back up pot, but it is much bigger (nearly twice the volume) but it was made and designed for the Al casting industry. The price on that is basically the same as the cast iron pot.

The controller part I have been able to source a good PID that has auto learn (self programing) so set up should not be an issue. Also this controller comes at a good price point.

Now to heating and this thing. Given that the volume is two quarts or apx 50 lbs Pb at max that takes a lot of power to get melted. So unless you wish to take one hour plus to get it liquid I am looking at a 1,400 watt or more output heating. That is doable on a 115 volt outlet, but I was hoping to avoid a separate 220 volt design. I am still looking into this whole power issue and 115 vs 220 volt issues. Call me stubborn, but I WANT to be able to plug it into either a 115 or 220 and just have it work. Also, if some one was to take it anywhere in the world it would work.

I have found some companies out there that have power supplies in the range that I am looking at but none are less then $400 USD and that just kills the budget for this project. I may have to just design and build my own power supply for this and that will take more time and testing. I have been researching this area.

This has turned it to a much bigger project then I had originally thought, but I want to come up with a design and build that is nearly a finished product not just a 'klug'. Do not get me wrong about the home solutions. They work great for those that have them. I am just looking to come up with a design that is at least a kit level and will be safe and functional no matter where it is used at.

I guess the engineer part of me got me going down this road as I just will not be happy with anything less.

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