Pin Gage uses

[JudgeBAC]

I have a set of Enco pin gages which are very helpful to measure revolver throats.

Lately I gave some thought to other uses for them. They could be used to measure H&I sizing dies to check diameters and I also believe you could use the appropriate size pin to enlarge a sizing dies also.

After further experimentation, I will report back and let you know how it goes. I have a .4305 size die that is slightly out of round. I plan on enlarging it to .4315 or maybe a little larger.

[Ron B.]

Hello Judge!
Interesting indeed!

Would you mind posting some pictures of those pin gauges?

Thanks,
GRB

[McLintock]

GoldenRoyBoy,
Go down to Gunsmithing et al in the forum and on the first page is a good thread about the pin guage sets, both from Enco and Grizzly.
McLintock

[JSnover]

I also believe you could use the appropriate size pin to enlarge a sizing dies also.

After further experimentation, I will report back and let you know how it goes. I have a .4305 size die that is slightly out of round. I plan on enlarging it to .4315 or maybe a little larger.

I'm sure you could but pin gages are generally pretty short. Opening the die might be easier using a length of drill rod coated or wrapped with abrasive - more to hold onto while you're working it. Bear in mind if you use the gage it will probably never be the same again.

[Calamity Jake]

Bear in mind if you use the gage it will probably never be the same again.

That's right, using the pin to lap with will reduce it's size as it opens up the die.

Also if you are going to buy gage pins, don't buy the complete sets, just buy the sizes needed(ie for .38-.357) the only pins needed may be from .354 to .361, thats 8 pins. You won't need the set of 198 pins unless you are a bussy machinest.

[JudgeBAC]

Actually it was cheaper to buy the entire set than to buy the individual pieces.

As to using a gage to lap a mold, I would be wrapping the gage with sand paper. I'm not sure how that would result in the gaqe itself being lapped? In any event, I certainly don't want to do anything to damage the gages. Even so they may indeed be too short. I haven't measured them yet to see.

At any rate, if this is a problem at least you can use them to measure the die itself.

[garandsrus]

Judge,

I wouldn't use a pin gauge to do anything but measure with! I would be worried about destroying it by changing it's size or scratching it somehow. They are probably also too short as was mentioned.

John

[fourarmed]

They are great for measuring the ID of sized and unsized case necks, and for calibrating mikes and dial calipers, as well as setting the old-fashioned type outside calipers. They could be used to measure bore diameters of barrels as well as chamber throats. For measuring bullet sizers, I prefer to drive a slug through and measure it, as most alloys have a little springback.

[JSnover]

A friend of mine used to buy drill/reamer blanks and use them as pin gages. It wasn't quite the same thing but they worked well enough to satisfy him.
He also used to cut or grind them to different lengths and shapes for various jobs but I never understood the logic behind that. They weren't good for much else after being chopped up.
If you're able to get some cheap round stock or drill rod you'll get the same results.

[JudgeBAC]

OK, they are indeed to short.

By the way, not being a machinist, what is drill rod and where can you get it?

[Gerry N.]

OK, they are indeed too short.

By the way, not being a machinist, what is drill rod and where can you get it?

Both ENCO www.useenco.com and Victor Machinery www.victornet.com sell several types of drill rod in myriad sizes. Buy the air hardening type, it is the least expensive. It can be cut and machined using workshop tools and is very accurately ground to diameter. It usually comes in 36" lengths. To make cutting tools of it, shape the rod as you desire, then heat to orange red and allow to cool. I do this sometimes to make special lathe and boring bar bits.

As was stated above drill and reamer blanks are excellent and very low cost substitutes for pin gages.

Ground tool steel dowel pins are another rilly kewl product as they make absolutely wonderful muzzleloader stock pins, alignment pins (Look at your bullet molds) and gage pins. They come in a range of diameters and lengths to delight the craftsman. Me, too for that matter.

Both these companies sell in lots as small as one item and are very hobbyist friendly. Victor has wonderful things we've all dreamed about. CHEAP ! !

For instance, they will make up custom taps. I requested a quote on a 10-28 left hand plug tap as a joke, they quoted less than $20 and a two week lead time.

Ask for their catalog, it is free and an excellent textbook for the home machinist and gunsmith.

Here's a tip: I make range rods for my muzzle loaders out of air hardening drill rod. Chuck a piece in the lathe, face the end, drill and tap for ramrod accessories, cut to desired length and attach a handle. I use 3/4" x 3/4" X 3" lengths of hardwood drilled in the center. Sometimes I even pin the handle to the rod as it makes it a bit easier to remove after some chucklehead uses the rod to clean his rifle after being told not to forty-eleven times and it gets stuck. Again.

Drill rod is very hard to bend, won't collapse like the $40 hollow brass ones and costs about $3 for a 36" piece of 3/8" for .45 cal. and over rifles.

Gerry N.

[garandsrus]

Gerry N,

What do you use the range rods for if you don't use them to clean with?

Thanks,
John

[Buckshot]

..............Gerry N., I believe you ment to say to buy W-1 and not A-2, as W-1 (water hardening) is by far the cheaper of the high carbon tool steels, eg:

Water hardening, 3/8" $4.17 ea Quantity Breaks: 4 or more........ $3.54 ea

Air Hardening, 3/8" $11.38 ea Quantity Breaks: 4 or more........ $8.53 ea

Drill blanks and reamer blanks are extremely usefull for using as form, boring, and cutting tools on the lathe, as they're all High Speed Steel and can be bought as M2, M4, M7, and M42. They're also usefull as transfer punches, gage pins, alignment pins, spacers and parallels amongst other stuff I can't think of at the moment . Reamer blanks are normally the more accurate of the 2, and approch the accuracy of the common grade 'B' Pin Gages being talked about here (.0002"). Unlike pin gages neither drill or reamer blanks are available in a consistent range step like gage pins.

Something I've never understood is that often the drill or reamer blanks cost as much or more then a finished drill bit or reamer. Doesn't make sense to me but there it is!

..............Buckshot

[Willbird]

The whole principle of lapping is that the lap needs to be softer than what you are lapping, a gage pin is as hard as woodpecker lips . Brass, aluminum, cast iron,copper, bronze and lead can all be used to make laps....soft steel can be used too. Each metal has it's advantages and disadvantages.

Bill

[cajun shooter]

I'm with you Willbird and would think that a brass rod would serve better for a lapping rod

[JSnover]

Drill blanks and reamer blanks are extremely usefull for using as form, boring, and cutting tools on the lathe, as they're all High Speed Steel and can be bought as M2, M4, M7, and M42. They're also usefull as transfer punches, gage pins, alignment pins, spacers and parallels amongst other stuff I can't think of at the moment .

..............Buckshot

See, that I understand because they're adaptable and reusable. The knucklehead I used to work with didn't grasp the concept of buying a gage set and using it to measure things.