9MM Brass Processor

[deltaenterprizes]

I load a few 9mm on my Dillon 1050 for practice ammunition.
The most common problem is the priming step.
Primers being expensive and not wanting to pull a bunch of bullets I have been depriming then wet tumbling and then sizing and priming on my Hornady Iron Press with primer auto feed.
I would size, deprime and reprime on the Hornady but the spent primer catcer doesn’t work and it makes a mess.
I have been thinking about a 2 stage progressive machine to size, deprime and reprime but I have too many projects already so I put it off until recently!
My neighbor told me about a progressive press that he saw at a local scrap yard.
The way he described it it was either a CH Auto Champ or a RCBS Green Machine.
It turns out it is a Auto Champ MK lll in 45ACP missing quite a few parts but most of it is there.
The next problem is that it is set up for large primers and I need small!
I got lucky and CH had all of the parts except for the slide bar that advances the cases and it is a pretty complex part to duplicate.
I was thinking about how to convert the existing part and remembered another press that uses a threaded bushing, so that is my plan.
I am going to drill and tap the slide and make a bushing to fit and then drill a hole for the small primer size! That way it can be switched back to large if necessary, not that I plan to do that.
I will only have one die in the press , a size/decap die and then I can inspect the primed brass before putting powder and seating a bullet.
This should be much quicker than my current procedure.

[Barry54]

Sounds like a worthwhile project! A picture is worth a thousand words, so please post photos of your progress for us.

[JimB..]

Rather than running it through twice, try loading with a 650. I think it’s the best hobby priming system.

[Winger Ed.]

Good luck with that project!

I like the spent primer catcher on my Hornady progressive, but other presses I use are beyond frustrating.
I ended up just letting them drop into a 5 gal. bucket, or rake 'em off the bench into one.
The ones that missed would just spill out all over the floor and I'd sweep 'em up later.

[M-Tecs]

I load a few 9mm on my Dillon 1050 for practice ammunition.
The most common problem is the priming step.
Primers being expensive and not wanting to pull a bunch of bullets I have been depriming then wet tumbling and then sizing and priming on my Hornady Iron Press with primer auto feed.
I would size, deprime and reprime on the Hornady but the spent primer catcer doesn’t work and it makes a mess.
I have been thinking about a 2 stage progressive machine to size, deprime and reprime but I have too many projects already so I put it off until recently!
My neighbor told me about a progressive press that he saw at a local scrap yard.
The way he described it it was either a CH Auto Champ or a RCBS Green Machine.
It turns out it is a Auto Champ MK lll in 45ACP missing quite a few parts but most of it is there.
The next problem is that it is set up for large primers and I need small!
I got lucky and CH had all of the parts except for the slide bar that advances the cases and it is a pretty complex part to duplicate.
I was thinking about how to convert the existing part and remembered another press that uses a threaded bushing, so that is my plan.
I am going to drill and tap the slide and make a bushing to fit and then drill a hole for the small primer size! That way it can be switched back to large if necessary, not that I plan to do that.
I will only have one die in the press , a size/decap die and then I can inspect the primed brass before putting powder and seating a bullet.
This should be much quicker than my current procedure.

I'm confused. I have two RL1050's and the priming system is almost bulletproof? I do run all my brass twice. First step is with a universal depriming die or a standard sizing die depending on how dirty the brass is. Just pour the brass into the hopper and go to town. The second trip through is priming, powder drop and bullet seating/crimping.

I do keep a vacuum and compressed air by my press. My experience is mine don't like running dirty. On the 1050's I get about 9,500 between stoppages and it generally a case feeder issue.

What issues are you having? Why are you pulling bullets to deprime?

[jmorris]

As much as I like to build things, I am with M-tecs on this one. Spend your effort setting up the 1050 right, both the swage station and primer station.

They are not the simplest press to setup but are worth it once you're there and probably easier than what you are about to get into.

[Brassmonkey]

I hogged out the spent primer discharge hole, and attached one of those brackets to put a hose into a bucket, that alone has kept the 1050 much cleaner during processin.

[Delkal]

I don't bother to wet tumble my pistol cases and just give them a few minutes tumble in corn cobs. Then load them. It doesn't make sense separately depriming them and double the amount of pulls to reload them if they don't need a trim.

Since I always size, check length, and trim rifle cases separately this is not an issue.

[dverna]

Another 1050 user (actually two) who has never had an issue. Something is wrong.

I have no experience with the Auto Champ but plenty with a Green Machine. If you cannot get the primer system to work on a 1050, you will not get it to work on a GM or similar press. The GM is garbage as a true progressive. (Defined as fired case with spent primer in the feed station and finished round at end of cylce)

BTW, there are a lot of 1050's used by commercial reloaders. If they did not work, they would not use them.

[deltaenterprizes]

I have to pull bullets if the case is cracked or has the “Glock Bulge”
I run my primed brass through a case gauge before expanding, dropping powder and seating a bullet.

[deltaenterprizes]

Rather than running it through twice, try loading with a 650. I think it’s the best hobby priming system.

The 1050 has a good priming system and if I had processed brass I would use the priming system but I don’t have access to a brass processor so this is the next best thing!

[deltaenterprizes]

As much as I like to build things, I am with M-tecs on this one. Spend your effort setting up the 1050 right, both the swage station and primer station.

They are not the simplest press to setup but are worth it once you're there and probably easier than what you are about to get into.

My 1050 are from the late 80s and are chrome plated, one is the first one I ever operated at a friend’s house and the other is the first one that I bought shortly afterwards.
I had 3 of them at one time, I loaded the practice ammo for the Sheriffs department I belonged to for quite a while.
I know how to set them up, I had to strip one to the frame to clean it up after a friend’s long illness and death.
I like running primed brass though my 1050!

[Delkal]

The 1050 has a good priming system and if I had processed brass I would use the priming system but I don’t have access to a brass processor so this is the next best thing!

Then why don't you resize and deprime separately on a single stage press? Then on your 1050 leave the sizing die out and just use the priming system. This is what I do with rifle rounds on a 550.

[deltaenterprizes]

Another 1050 user (actually two) who has never had an issue. Something is wrong.

I have no experience with the Auto Champ but plenty with a Green Machine. If you cannot get the primer system to work on a 1050, you will not get it to work on a GM or similar press. The GM is garbage as a true progressive. (Defined as fired case with spent primer in the feed station and finished round at end of cylce)

BTW, there are a lot of 1050's used by commercial reloaders. If they did not work, they would not use them.

I got the CH press for nothing and I have spent a whole $25 to convert it to small primers.
I had a MK5 and it was junk, the priming system on the MK3 Is totally different and better!

[M-Tecs]

The 1050 has a good priming system and if I had processed brass I would use the priming system but I don’t have access to a brass processor so this is the next best thing!

If I was building or purchasing anything for the issues you are having it would be a roll sizer. https://www.rollsizer.com/

[M-Tecs]

My 1050 are from the late 80s and are chrome plated, one is the first one I ever operated at a friend’s house and the other is the first one that I bought shortly afterwards.
I had 3 of them at one time, I loaded the practice ammo for the Sheriffs department I belonged to for quite a while.
I know how to set them up, I had to strip one to the frame to clean it up after a friend’s long illness and death.
I like running primed brass though my 1050!

Never seen a chromed RL1050. The RL 1000 built on a stainless-steel frame. RL 1000's were discontinued in 1989 and replaced with the RL 1050 than later the Super 1050's.

I load a few 9mm on my Dillon 1050 for practice ammunition.
The most common problem is the priming step.
Primers being expensive and not wanting to pull a bunch of bullets I have been depriming then wet tumbling and then sizing and priming on my Hornady Iron Press with primer auto feed.
.

If I understand correctly the problem is NOT with the priming system on the Dillon but rather the case inspection process allowing cracked and bulge brass that have to be dealt with later? So no Dillon 1050 trouble shooting required since this appears to be a process issue and not an issue with the 1050?

[JimB..]

Had to reread the original post, but I think the key is “ I will only have one die in the press , a size/decap die and then I can inspect the primed brass before putting powder and seating a bullet.”

What you’re describing is pretty much what I do with a Lee AP press, but I inspect before priming. Case feeder attached, cases get deprimed and dropped in a bucket. Wet tumbled, and while spreading on a blanket to dry I look and listen for split cases (also have a magnet in my hand that grabs any pins that made it through the rinse and separation process and any brass colored steel cases). I do briefly dry tumble the dirty brass before starting this process, the AP press runs more smoothly when it’s pretty clean, so knocking the loose junk off the brass helps keep the press running.

One weekend I did 6gal on 9mm, 3 gal of 357mag and 3 gal of 45acp. It’s all queued up for the rollsizer.

[deltaenterprizes]

I got hooked on using primed brass when a friend asked me to load his new primed brass because it was seizing on the expanding die on his LEE press
I removed the decapping pin and went through 1000 rounds lickity split!
I stumbled on the junk press and it is sturdier than a LEE AP press and the price was right so I had to give it a shot!

[jmorris]

I have to pull bullets if the case is cracked or has the “Glock Bulge”
I run my primed brass through a case gauge before expanding, dropping powder and seating a bullet.

Yeah, I don't case gauge until the product is finished, I don't care as much if the case is good at the beginning of the process as after all are completed.

[jmorris]

The 1050 has a good priming system and if I had processed brass I would use the priming system but I don’t have access to a brass processor so this is the next best thing!

You can just process brass on them, just don't perform the steps you don't want to do.

Looks like this.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/G1ieGYpdr9I