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Thread: Luger - fail to feed

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

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    Luger - fail to feed

    1936 S/42. I've fired this Luger before with milsurp Finn machinegun ammo and my own handloads using 124 gr RN FMJ with nary a hitch. Load on both these was 4.7 grs Unique with NOE 134 gr boolit diameter .358". Magazines are Triple K and Meggar and both have worked flawless prior.

    About half the time the bolt was failing to strip the top round off. But there were strings of 3, 4 and 5 rds rapid fire that ran like a champion race horse.

    I have some ammo from yesterday unfired. First thought is to seat the bullets .005 to .008" deeper and re-run the taper crimp. I used the OAL from Lyman and it wasn't the exact same cast bullet. I will also take some of my older FMJ and run a couple magazines through just to eliminate some unknown possibility. I've shot about 300 rds through this pistol since first acquired in 1998. (Southern Ohio Gun Dist.). It was missing the magazine and had East German police grip panels. Only a couple mis-match numbers. Its a fun shooter.

    The S&W MP 4th change: mfg about 1923 and has J.P.D. 33 on the grip. Almost no blue remains. At least 2 factory star stamps indicating factory re-blue. And there are dates stamped into the grip frame from 1933 up to 1971. Despite its hard ~holster~ life the bore is excellent and the double-action is smooth and perfect timing. I shot it rapid fire and it never skipped a beat.

    Books:
    Fast & Fancy Shooting by Ed McGivern.
    Luger Pistols by Fred Datig, revised edition (very outdated)

    yes I know... too much LLA

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  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Lugers need full powered loads to function so switching to lower pressure and maybe a reduced lead load (I didn't check) is probably the problem.

    And NO! I don't like loading old and expensive pistols to max but that is what it takes.

  3. #3
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    I wouldn't carve on the original recoil spring, however-
    If you can find them, you might could get a new spring or two and start shortening them a little at a time
    so the bolt will come back all the way for shooting reduced loads.

    It'd be the same principal as getting reduced power springs for a 1911 to shoot ammo with reduced 'horsepower'.
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master schutzen-jager's Avatar
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    possible limp wrist hold or soft grip ? - did you try a different magazine ? -
    never pick a fight with an old man - if he is too old to fight he will just kill you -
    in this current crisis our government is not the solution , it is the problem ! -

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  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    Read somewhere that Lugers were originally set up for 125 grain conical flat point bullets before WW1. They may be finicky as to bullet weight.
    Round nose bullets were resorted to because the flat point bullets made too much of a wound to suit the German military. They were worried about the Geneva Convention restrictions on firearms and ammunition. Poison gas must not have been mentioned. The Germans did raise cane about the AEF's use of trench guns.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    I have a P-08 double date 1917/1920. I've been using the Lee 124 conical FP. I was getting some stove piping with mine. A light smoothing of the feed ramp took care of that. If you're not stripping off the next round during the cycle it's likely either a light load or a weak spring in the magazine. I'd try a different magazine first...or pull the magazine apart and give the spring a slight stretch then see if the issue is resolved.

    redhawk

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  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Mine is a 1938 S/42 Mauser Werke gun, also one of the 90's imports. Mine was supposedly imported from Estonia after the wall came down, but I offer no guarantee of that info. My guess is that given the mags worked with other ammo, the problem is that your loads are not strong enough to drive the bolt back far enough to allow it to consistently pick up the next round. I would not modify the gun. I would first try seating the boolits deeper, if they are longer than 1.08 inches. Second, I'd try raising the load slightly. I'd also make sure that my gun was squeaky clean and well lubed. It doesn't take much in the way of grit or grunge to cause your luger to run raggedly.

    My luger won't run unless I am loading right to the top. I use the Lyman 356-242 ~122 grain boolit, and when I started developing a load for it, it was a single shot until I got I got up to 4.2 grains of WW231, and wasn't fully reliable until I was nearly at the book max of 4.5 grains. I use 4.4 grains for the Luger, while most of my other guns run just fine with 4.2 grains under the same boolit @ an OAL of 1.10".
    Last edited by rintinglen; 04-14-2024 at 02:24 PM.
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  8. #8
    Boolit Man
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    My 1916 DWM luger (inherited) was an erratic feeder. A new set of springs from Wolfe fixed it and now it runs like clockwork with just about anything I feed it . New springs might help ( sure couldn't hurt)

  9. #9
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    The one Luger that I’ve owned was a 1923 Commercial Safe/Loaded 7.65 ( shooter grade)
    I used 100 gr Speer Plinkers and had to use the maximum load for 85 gr bullets to get it to function.
    Neat pistols with bad sights was my takeaway!


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  10. #10
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by rintinglen View Post
    Mine is a 1938 S/42 Mauser Werke gun, also one of the 90's imports. Mine was supposedly imported from Estonia after the wall came down, but I offer no guarantee of that info. My guess is that given the mags worked with other ammo, the problem is that your loads are not strong enough to drive the bolt back far enough to allow it to consistently pick up the next round. I would not modify the gun. I would first try seating the boolits deeper, if they are longer than 1.08 inches. Second, I'd try raising the load slightly. I'd also make sure that my gun was squeaky clean and well lubed. It doesn't take much in the way of grit or grunge to cause your luger to run raggedly.

    My luger won't run unless I am loading right to the top. I use the Lyman 356-242 ~122 grain boolit, and when I started developing a load for it, it was a single shot until I got I got up to 4.2 grains of WW231, and wasn't fully reliable until I was nearly at the book max of 4.5 grains. I use 4.4 grains for the Luger, while most of my other guns run just fine with 4.2 grains under the same boolit @ an OAL of 1.10".
    I do have a new Wolfe recoil spring. Not installed. I'll review the load data I used and I'll seat the bullets a touch deeper before I do anything else. I need to backtrack on the previous FMJ I loaded years ago.

    thanks for the thoughts
    Dutch

  11. #11
    Boolit Master schutzen-jager's Avatar
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    jmho - before changing recoil spring try a different magazine - most of the time mag spring is not pushing cartridge up before breech block passes it -
    never pick a fight with an old man - if he is too old to fight he will just kill you -
    in this current crisis our government is not the solution , it is the problem ! -

    ILLEGITIMI NON CARBORUNDUM

    as they say in latin

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    I had a brief moment of clear vision into my visual memory of this incident with the Luger not stripping rds from the magazine. The one thing I forgot to fully describe is exactly where the bolt stopped in it's cycle. It was mid-way up the case. It was not picking up the rim....

    Why------ angle of the loaded rd in the magazine is a rather steep angle. The first few loaded went in just fine but I failed to notice that the nose of the bullet was rubbing the front radius of the magazine housing. Too long so they started tipping moreso until the bolt couldn't touch the rim as the cartridge angle was too great. Just enough where it wouldn't feed.

    I'll seat the bullets deeper and give it another go next time out. Thanks for all the thoughts and ideas....

    Dutch

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