What should I get to get started checkering stocks?

[JDHasty]

I have been given tools over the years, they used to be made in Tacoma when I was a kid and were everywhere, but didn’t use them and gave them away. I’m finally going to give it a try, and want to go basic.

I bet I have given away a couple boxes of tools and I think having so much I didn’t know where to start was an impediment more than a blessing.

My inclination is if I have just a basic set of quality tools that I will be best served and can get going.

[Winger Ed.]

Years ago, I got a big fat, custom, go faster, hot rod, laminated stock for a heavy barrel Rem700.

It came plain, and Having it checkered was some crazy price. Like $400. or something.
The budget wouldn't support that so I got some basic checkering tools for about $50.

A life long friend came by after it was done and asked, "Not bad. Have you ever done this before"?
I said, "No".
He replied, "Let me get this straight. You bought a $400.... stock and taught yourself how to checker,,,, on it"?
"Yeah.... pretty much".

I didn't tell him I'd read up on it, got sample sheets, and practiced for over a month on a baseball bat and the original
cracked & busted Rem700 stock.

Practice first, and read up on it. Be patient, and it's do-able.

[Hannibal]

I'd also recommend exercising a lot of patience and work very slowly. Once you remove some wood there's no putting it back.

[M-Tecs]

These currently are the best made and designed. https://www.ullmanprecision.com/products/

[Mk42gunner]

Unless you can still focus your eyes from six inches to infinity, get an optivisor. The magnifier that you wear like a face shield.

Then start practicing. I don't think cutting diamonds on a flat surface does much good, but most any curved piece of wood will do.

Good Luck,

Robert

[Winger Ed.]

I haven't looked, but Professor youtube probably has a few classes on doing it.

[CastingFool]

This is a pic of my first checkering job. Practiced a bit on some scrap wood, before attempting checkering the pistol grip. Intented to do the fore end, but never got around to it.

[JDHasty]

I have the illuminated visor. It comes in handier every day. I’m thinking an 18 line tool, a single line tool, a tool for tight spaces and that ought to be it for tools. A couple of the plastic templates. I have the patience. I’m a go slow guy. Thanks for the suggestions so far.

[JDHasty]

This is a pic of my first checkering job. Practiced a bit on some scrap wood, before attempting checkering the pistol grip. Intented to do the fore end, but never got around to it.

I like it! That is what I have in mind. Nothing fancy. Just get going and learn a little bit every day.

[quack1]

I have the illuminated visor. It comes in handier every day. I’m thinking an 18 line tool, a single line tool, a tool for tight spaces and that ought to be it for tools. A couple of the plastic templates. I have the patience. I’m a go slow guy. Thanks for the suggestions so far.

A small gooseneck desk light that can be directed to make shadows across the lines helps a lot. Also at the least, a swivel vise with padded jaws to firmly hold the stock. A cradle would be better, but if you're only going to do a few stocks, the vise will suffice.

[ulav8r]

20 lpi will look better and still give a good grip. You will only have to cut a few more lines with the closer spacing.

[JDHasty]

Well, I got a call out of the blue and don’t know what I have headed this way, but a friend is headed this way from Montana with a box of checkering tools. He retired locally so it’s probably mostly Dem Bart tools. He said there are some replacement cutting heads in the box.

It’s kind of uncanny how he turns up with something I’m thinking about. Last time I saw him he had a couple boxes of NOS 218 Bee brass I desperately needed. He said he can’t see well enough to have any use for the checkering tools and thought of me.

He is coming this way to help a widow sort out a bunch of reloading tools. I will probably be able to put a bunch of Wildcat form and loading dies up soon as I know what all is there.

[Rockingkj]

I have always used Dem-bart tools and found em pretty easy to use. A checking cradle or similar fixture to hold the stock firmly while cutting is a big help too.

[JDHasty]

Thank everyone once again for the tips.

Maybe it’s meant to be that I finally give it a whirl. Went over to my buddy’s place with a couple problems, and some Lima bean soup, and came home with a box of Dem Bart tools after mentioning that buddy Bill is bringing me his when he comes over from Montana tomorrow. I don’t know what I have, but was told many of them have carbide replacement cutters and there are duplicates set up to cut on the push and pull stroke. I looked them over and are little 60 and 90 degree V gouges and some replacement cutter heads in there too.

He hates working with wood, always has, but is a real perfectionist and I’ve seen stocks he checkered decades ago. He did some very, very nice work with them. Said if he never checkers another gunstock it will be too soon.

I kind of feel like the kid being sent off to college or trade school, expectations seem pretty high. I guess I had better get plans to build a checkering cradle and get to work building one. I have a couple books here somewhere, I’ve never even cracked them. They might have plans in them.

I’ve got a few junk stocks in a pickle bucket in the garage to practice on. Most are off 788s and 580/581/582s and the wrist isn’t checkered on them, they will finally come in handy.

[James Wisner]

Come on down. I have a Brownell's checkering cradle that is missing the rear saddle, that you can have
That saddle is easy to make from some scrap wood

J Wisner

[JDHasty]

What a guy. I’ll try and give you a call this week.

[CastingFool]

Just make sure the first line you cut is straight, cause every other line you cut afterwards, will match it.

[ulav8r]

I like it! That is what I have in mind. Nothing fancy. Just get going and learn a little bit every day.

Though that checkering looks well done with straight lines and even depth, it has a major error. The length and direction of the diamonds is not "proper". The diamonds should be about 3 times longer than their width with the length axis running along the "length" of the grip near the upper end, much easier explained with a picture I do not have.

Yes, make the first line straight and the others will follow. Start the first line shallow and slowly deepen it to keep it straight. When it is about 2/3rds of final depth, start the second line at the proper angle and keep it straight. I looked at one of the Brownells jointers and made my own copy of one using a 1/8" square of drill rod and a metal checkering file to lay out the teeth, deepened with a triangle needle file. I used it to feep those first lines straight. Then space out the rest of the lines and slowly deepen all lines to final depth. Use a veiner chisel to finish the ends of the lines to final depth. A riffler can be used to straighten a line that starts to go astray, easier to do if the angle of the riffler is "sharper" than the checkering tools( a 60 degree riffler for 90 degree checkering). A 90 degree set of tools will make shallower diamonds that are stronger than diamonds cut with a set of 60 degree tools. Usually the 90 degree are more for using guns and the 60 degree sets for showing off "fancy" guns. Other than a good book on checkering explaining these details, a Gun Digest from the late 60's or early 70's will have a few pages of custom guns with beautiful checkering, one or two will have closeups that show the angles of the lines well.

[waksupi]

The hardest thing to come by if you are an old fart, is eyes good enough to do the job. I still have my copy of Monte Kennedy's book on checkering, including some of his old cancelled checks.
Between bad eyes and arthritis, I gave up on checkering, especially since I can send out a stock and have it done for around $150, and have it back in under a week.
Definitely do some practice pieces before tackling a gun stock. I'm sure your wife would appreciate having her spatula checkered!