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Thread: Scratches on the drive bands of a cast bullet

  1. #1
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    Scratches on the drive bands of a cast bullet

    I know this is all about the sizer die.
    The facts: 4 cavity H&G #237 200gr lswc gc.
    Awesome bullet and mould. Great 44 mag full house lower recoil bullet.
    Alloy is 5lbs ww to 1lb lino.
    Star sizer @ .430" and Magma lube.
    After sizing .430" and gas checking there are some very minor scratches on the drive bands.
    It just bothers me that the scratches are there.
    I took a drill and a brass 45 cleaning brush and spun it in the sizer die. Ran it for a couple of minutes.
    I shot 1000 rounds of cast 45acp like that and it didn't seem to hurt a thing.
    How to get clean the die to get rid of these annoying tiny scratches on the bullet so they are not there after sizing?
    Last edited by FISH4BUGS; 04-01-2024 at 07:43 AM.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Is some of the gas check getting hung on the lube holes in the sizing die? Maybe base first instead of nose first?

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Run several bullets thru with an orientation mark this will give you an idea where to look for the scratches. I suspect the holes have gotten some sharp edges worn on and may need a fine deburring. A small brass ball on a stem can reach in and just break the edge.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsizemore View Post
    Is some of the gas check getting hung on the lube holes in the sizing die? Maybe base first instead of nose first?
    I always thought the Star sizer was nose first. been doing it that way for many years.
    I have never tried it base first.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    They'll go both ways. I do nose first too. I had a die act up without the gas check. Some polishing compound took care of it. I like country gent's idea of deburring.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    Run several bullets thru with an orientation mark this will give you an idea where to look for the scratches. I suspect the holes have gotten some sharp edges worn on and may need a fine deburring. A small brass ball on a stem can reach in and just break the edge.
    Can you elaborate a bit? My thought is that the brass ball will have to be .429" since the sizer die is .430".
    OR....just a brass ball and rub it back and forth, even if it is smaller?
    I guess I can't visualize what you are saying.
    I am going to run out and buy a 50 cal brass bore brush, load it Hoppe's #9 and run it for five minutes in the drill.
    if THAT doesn't do it, i am at a dead end.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by FISH4BUGS View Post
    Can you elaborate a bit? My thought is that the brass ball will have to be .429" since the sizer die is .430".
    OR....just a brass ball and rub it back and forth, even if it is smaller?
    I guess I can't visualize what you are saying.
    I am going to run out and buy a 50 cal brass bore brush, load it Hoppe's #9 and run it for five minutes in the drill.
    if THAT doesn't do it, i am at a dead end.
    A "small" brass ball on a stem, about BB size to reach in from the end of the die to break the edge on the lube holes.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I get slight scratches on my bullets when sized in my Lyman 450. I'm watching with interest as I would like to remedy this. It's not a "problem", but if I could fiddle with the die and alleviate the issue, then I would.

    You can see them in this picture pretty good.

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  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master

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    The brass ball dosnt need to be actual sizing die dia, just bigger than the lube holes the stem needs to be long enough to hold on to and reach the holes.

    You coat the ball with some polishing compound and reach in and just work the edge of the hole removing burrs and putting a light chamfer on the edge. This is an operation that takes some finesse so go slow and careful.

    After sizing a few with orientation marks if the marks line up with the holes this is whats probably needed.

    Here your not working the actual die just the edges of the lube holes to smooth and break sharp edges. You want the ball big enough to not drop in but small enough to be able to work the edge and get it in and out easy. Im just guessing here but around 3/16" maybe.
    Last edited by country gent; 04-01-2024 at 11:38 AM.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    When I block a set of holes on a star sizing die, I dig through some lead bird shot and find some of the smallest pieces. I use a brass hammer to get one in position so a little is hanging clear of the die body so I can get it out next time. The ball on the end of the brass tip needs to be at least the diameter of a #8 shot. The lube hole on the inside of the die is even smaller.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Thanks for this discussion.

    Thanks for sharing these tips countrygent. I assume steel will work without an issue? I could epoxy a BB onto a dowel rod, and of course, I have a light touch.
    Last edited by Bazoo; 04-02-2024 at 10:33 AM.
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  12. #12
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    To all: I bought a 410 ga bronze cleaning brush and spun it in a drill for a couple of minutes with some Hoppes #9.
    I sized a few, and while it improved, it did not get rid of the marks totally. I will spin it longer tonight, but this time I will wrap some copper chore boy around the brush and go at it again.
    That helps remove lead in a barrel, so logically it will help remove little particles of lead in the sizer die lube holes.
    I think the scratches are due to some left over lead from the shot in the lube holes when I removed them to fit the bullet with a gas check.
    I will try again tonight.
    I have 2000 of these to do and I want them done right.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I prefer a brass ball or lead. believe it or not steel with the polishing compound cuts slower. It dosnt impregnate like the brass or lead does.

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    Some times a boolit size die comes "new" that isn't polished to my standard. I have polished a few. I use denin wrapped around a dowel and Flitz or other polishing compound...sometimes I add a little oil to the cloth. I may or may not use a battery drill.
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  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I have some 30 caliber round balls (I have a mould). If lead will work, we are in business. Should be a fun project, and interesting to see if it improves anything. Heck I guess I should even consider an accuracy test, to see if the scratches makes any difference, meaningful, measurable, or otherwise, to accuracy.
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  16. #16
    Boolit Master nvbirdman's Avatar
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    You, of course are aware that those scratches will be on the boolit forever, or untill you pull the trigger. Whichever comes first.

  17. #17
    Boolit Man
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    Personally I don’t think it matters on the target. But good looking boolits are nice.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    They look terrible after they've been sent downrange.....quickly.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charliemac View Post
    Personally I don’t think it matters on the target. But good looking boolits are nice.
    I shot well over 1000 45 acp cast that looked just the same with the scratches on the drive bands.
    No ill effects.
    I just hate the way they look.
    I'm sure that thousands of dollars of therapy will get me past that.
    Last edited by FISH4BUGS; 04-02-2024 at 03:12 PM.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    Well here are the results: I wrapped a 410 ga brass cleaning brush with Chore Boy strands of copper, gave it a squirt of WD40 and spun it in the sizer die for 5 minutes, stopping to oil it a few times.
    Result? almost good.
    I am a perfectionist when it comes to my casting and reloading, but I am also a pragmatist. It is, yes....good enough.
    I would suggest that if I didn't say anything, you wouldn't notice the small lines....but they bother me to be there.
    I am sure they will be fine in the full house 44 mag loads. I use 296 powder. Great muzzle flash too, but uber accurate.
    Nice 200gr 44 bullet that lets you hot rod the 44 without breaking your wrist.
    My kind of bullet.
    Many thanks to all the suggestions.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
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