Lost at sea.

[rbuck351]

About ten years back I bought a TC front loader at a gun show in Anchorage AK. It came with two GM 32 cal barrels and two locks, one cap and one flint. The flint combo is by far is the most fun to shoot. Although it fires every time, sometimes it lags a bit between the flint strike and the bang and sometimes it fires seemingly as fast as a center fire.

I need to get with someone like Waksupi to see if this is a lock problem or my loading method.

[indian joe]

About ten years back I bought a TC front loader at a gun show in Anchorage AK. It came with two GM 32 cal barrels and two locks, one cap and one flint. The flint combo is by far is the most fun to shoot. Although it fires every time, sometimes it lags a bit between the flint strike and the bang and sometimes it fires seemingly as fast as a center fire.

I need to get with someone like Waksupi to see if this is a lock problem or my loading method.

If the pan is igniting "every time" you proly already ahead of the mob particularly in Alaskas climate.
the problem is further down the chain of fire

experiment with how much prime powder you use - I like more rather than less, but I make the stuff so theres plenty.

I dont know the TC breech setup but your symptom points to a longish powder channel from pan to main charge
that can be helped by 'seatng; the main charge - drop the powder down, gun standing vertical give ole betsy a "smack on the chops" - several - light smacks with open hand right near the lock - that will make sure the powder charge doesnt hang up or bridge internally (all muzzleloaders should get into this habit anyway capguns too)

That gun was mine (unless this has already been done!) I would drill out whatever is there to about 9mm (bigger the better within reason) thread tap the barrel wall and insert a touch hole liner thats coned from the backside at 45 degree - this puts the body of the main charge right up against the pan - no more ffffft ....(wait for it) ........bang.

[rbuck351]

It already has a screw in touch hole but it is coned (sort of ) from the inside and it's not coned at a 45 degree angle. Also IIRC the liner is a 1/4". I will make one that is tapered from the inside and test that. If that helps I can open the barrel hole to 5/16 and try that. I don't think I have a 9mm tap or die but that's an easy fix.

I have tried loading the pan with different amounts of 4f and positioning it level and with it stacked against the touch hole liner and away from the touch hole. That didn't seem to make much difference. I guess the worst case is if it still does the ffft bang sometimes, it will make me a better shooter if I can master that.

Thanks for the help. I'm willing to try most anything as this is my first flinter. I have several cap guns but the flinter has the others beat for fun. If I do my part, it will shoot right at 1"at 50 yds with either barrel. With my 75 year old eyes, that is about as good as I can shoot with anything with iron sights.

[36g]

My understanding is that for the fastest ignition from the pan the powder in the pan should be tilted away from the flash hole so that you don't get a fuse effect but rather the flash from the pan sets off the main powder charge. Seems to work for me.

[indian joe]

It already has a screw in touch hole but it is coned (sort of ) from the inside and it's not coned at a 45 degree angle. Also IIRC the liner is a 1/4". I will make one that is tapered from the inside and test that. If that helps I can open the barrel hole to 5/16 and try that. I don't think I have a 9mm tap or die but that's an easy fix.

coned 45 degree is not writ in stone and you will get 100different opinions here - mine is just one -- if its a small clibre you have a decent barrel wall thickness to contend with - this is all about getting the main charge as close to the pan ignition as is safely possible - take a peek in there with a flashlight when its loaded - can you see fresh powder?

I have tried loading the pan with different amounts of 4f and positioning it level and with it stacked against the touch hole liner and away from the touch hole. That didn't seem to make much difference. I guess the worst case is if it still does the ffft bang sometimes, it will make me a better shooter if I can master that.

there is that and it will do it......

Thanks for the help. I'm willing to try most anything as this is my first flinter. I have several cap guns but the flinter has the others beat for fun. If I do my part, it will shoot right at 1"at 50 yds with either barrel. With my 75 year old eyes, that is about as good as I can shoot with anything with iron sights.

]

good shootin I know the bit about 75 yr eyes - got a pair of those meself

[indian joe]

My understanding is that for the fastest ignition from the pan the powder in the pan should be tilted away from the flash hole so that you don't get a fuse effect but rather the flash from the pan sets off the main powder charge. Seems to work for me.

that is the common held view - one I dont subscribe to and it never made sense to me BUT if I had one of those guns with a long skinny fuse type powder channel it would not last long at my place before it got fixed
I think the theory maybe was debunked by a bloke did some scientific tests on pan powder placement and ignitin times - proly on this forum someplace

[Wayne Smith]

On my one and only flintlock the most effective pan load is as light as possible. Just a few grains of powder set off the charge.

[waksupi]

About ten years back I bought a TC front loader at a gun show in Anchorage AK. It came with two GM 32 cal barrels and two locks, one cap and one flint. The flint combo is by far is the most fun to shoot. Although it fires every time, sometimes it lags a bit between the flint strike and the bang and sometimes it fires seemingly as fast as a center fire.

I need to get with someone like Waksupi to see if this is a lock problem or my loading method.

It sounds like you may be over priming if you have a lag.

[indian joe]

On my one and only flintlock the most effective pan load is as light as possible. Just a few grains of powder set off the charge.

we have two that are opposite - they go best with a pretty full pan and right close up to the touch hole - one home built and tother is a charleville
All that proves is flintlocks have character ---prhaps the fellers that like to shoot em do too?

[rbuck351]

The minimum powder in the pan is one thing I haven't tried. I normally fill the pan just below the touch hole. I was told the flash across the top of the pan was the fastest of the burn pattern. I'm still learning so I have a few more things to try. Thanks everyone.

[dtknowles]

Ok, it showed up at my door at 9 pm tonight. A used CVA 50 cal flintlock rifle. Maybe have pictures and a range report tomorrow.
It makes sparks. The flint is pinched with lead, was thinking it was supposed to be leather.

I used a patch puller an got some fuzz out of the bore, think nothing in the bore anymore. I can push a goodly puff of air out of the flashhole if I push a tight patch down the bore. A pin goes easily through the flash hole.

I have 4f, 3f and 2f powder, round balls and cut/lube patches and some flannel and some pillow ticking. Mostly want to see if I can make it go bang tomorrow.

Can you believe those delivery people are working until past 9pm?

Tim

[LAGS]

I sometimes install my flints to the hammer with lead.
I prefer leather.
But don’t always have any leather at hand.
But I have lots of lead for casting boolits.

[dtknowles]

I sometimes install my flints to the hammer with lead.
I prefer leather.
But don’t always have any leather at hand.
But I have lots of lead for casting boolits.

Thanks, it sounds like either will work. I have much of both lead sheet and sheet leather. I am going to leave it as is with the lead because I have the impression that this gun was working will as is. It might have been tuned by the previous owner.

If I have issues I am going to change to leather, any recommendations on the leather. I am thinking softish thin leather, I have everything from kid glove leather to shoe leather to raw hide. I have scraps of gloves, wallets, boots, jackets, holsters, you name it.

[LAGS]

I mostly use the split leather that I used to make my possibles bag.
But just try different leathers that you have.
Mine is about 1/16” thick and pretty soft.
Most glove leather is too thin.
Shoe leather has worked.
Belt leather is too thick.

[Sasquatch-1]

Old wallets tend to be a good thickness. I also buy scrap packs from Hobby Lobby that contain upholstery scraps. They may need to be skived thinner.

If I have issues I am going to change to leather, any recommendations on the leather. I am thinking softish thin leather, I have everything from kid glove leather to shoe leather to raw hide. I have scraps of gloves, wallets, boots, jackets, holsters, you name it.

[dtknowles]

CVA Flintlock range report.

It went bang every time. Stranger happened by this kind of hidden location, he was interested, had shot before, does not own a gun but is thinking about getting one. I suspect he can't really afford it right now, seemed to be a poor working family man. I let him shoot it and then taught him how to load it. Seem quite bright and caught on easily.

Target, 4 shots, 25 yards, offhand/standing, not carefully aimed so it does not mean anymore than it has potential.


The one patch I could find, the others were lost in the weeds.


Seems ok, not textbook perfect but not bad, right?

490 round ball, 50 gr. GOEX 3F, GOEX 4F in the pan.



Tim

[indian joe]

CVA Flintlock range report.

It went bang every time. Stranger happened by this kind of hidden location, he was interested, had shot before, does not own a gun but is thinking about getting one. I suspect he can't really afford it right now, seemed to be a poor working family man. I let him shoot it and then taught him how to load it. Seem quite bright and caught on easily.

Target, 4 shots, 25 yards, offhand/standing, not carefully aimed so it does not mean anymore than it has potential.


The one patch I could find, the others were lost in the weeds.


Seems ok, not textbook perfect but not bad, right?

490 round ball, 50 gr. GOEX 3F, GOEX 4F in the pan.



Tim

If that lock eats up flints you might wanna harden the frizzen
A decent condition CVA is capable of that target or better at 100yards
Have fun!!!!

[dtknowles]

If that lock eats up flints you might wanna harden the frizzen
A decent condition CVA is capable of that target or better at 100yards
Have fun!!!!

Good to know.

Tim

[Sasquatch-1]

If I am out in the middle of NOWHERE and a stranger walks while I am shooting, I would be very wary. Especially since you say it's a somewhat hidden area.

CVA Flintlock range report.

It went bang every time. Stranger happened by this kind of hidden location, he was interested, had shot before, does not own a gun but is thinking about getting one. I suspect he can't really afford it right now, seemed to be a poor working family man. I let him shoot it and then taught him how to load it. Seem quite bright and caught on easily.

Tim

[dtknowles]

If I am out in the middle of NOWHERE and a stranger walks while I am shooting, I would be very wary. Especially since you say it's a somewhat hidden area.

He drove up not walked up, it is an easement of a sort. He was in a company truck, really, I was probably trespassing. I was wary but not for reasons like you are suggesting. I was glad he was interested in what I was doing and not interested in causing me trouble for being where I shouldn't be. Finding a place to pop off a few rounds without having to drive a long way led me to explore this place. First time I went there I found some discarded brass, so others have shot there.

Tim