Lubricant for Powder Thrower

[timboslice]

I bought three RCBS powder throwers that were previously covered in oil from being stored improperly with gun cleaning and lubrication supplies. I cleaned them up but the cylinder assembly does not move as freely as I would like. I went to a local gun shop and asked what they recommended and they told me to use a lithium based lube but I also see that a dry graphite lube is probably the best option, which is what I am leaning towards. Any recommendations as to what brand of dry graphite lube I should get?

[cwtebay]

I have used powdered graphite for that. But mostly because I hate powder sticking to EVERYTHING if you use a liquid lubricants.
Edit - make sure that you have disassembled everything that you can and use some sort of degreaser on all parts before reassembly. I use isopropyl ALC, some use brake cleaner, others ether starting fluid. Not sure if it matters, but make sure all is righteously clean before applying anything.

[country gent]

I use a dry lube molybdenum disulfide on mine. wear gloves when using it. a rub it into the parts with a rag. You want a dry lube so that powders dont get contaminated or stick. The dry lubes dont do a lot for rust prevention though.
The other thing to remember is a lot of powders have a graphite coating that lubricates over time.

[Recycled bullet]

Run a few ounces of power pistol through it and it'll be smooth as glass.

[Delkal]

I second the powdered graphite. Many powders are already coated in it anyway so you have no chance of contaminating your powder or having variable weights due to the powder sticking to a grease.

[AZ Pete]

graphite or Moly powder.

[timboslice]

I use a dry lube molybdenum disulfide on mine. wear gloves when using it. a rub it into the parts with a rag. You want a dry lube so that powders dont get contaminated or stick. The dry lubes dont do a lot for rust prevention though.
The other thing to remember is a lot of powders have a graphite coating that lubricates over time.

Right that was my goal; to prevent powder from sticking and messing up my loads. I will give the moly lube a look. Thanks!

[racepres]

To take up "space" I use a spray on Moly.
For lubrication...I have always simply run some bit of powdered mica thru my measures.
I catch the mica and recycle it by putting a little (very little) in the containers that my fresh lubed Boolits go into...Shake and roll.. No Sticky

[timboslice]

I second the powdered graphite. Many powders are already coated in it anyway so you have no chance of contaminating your powder or having variable weights due to the powder sticking to a grease.

Graphite seems to be the consensus on this thread or molybdenum. But maybe I won't waste time and just buy some powder and run it through!

Edit: I fully disassembled everything and cleaned off all the lubrication with 70% IPA since I had it available. I also used some barkeepers friend to remove some of the rust on various parts and wiped it off quickly. Currently it is metal on metal with no lube or rust preventative.

[M-Tecs]

renaissance wax works well. https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-X...1231851&sr=8-2

https://forum.accurateshooter.com/th...-with.3879869/

[Winger Ed.]

I've waxed the moving parts with regular auto/car paste wax-
the kind that dries & you buff off. I've had had good luck doing that and there's no residue.

[timboslice]

I've waxed the moving parts with regular auto/car paste wax-
the kind that dries & you buff off. I've had had good luck doing that and there's no residue.

Interesting, this is the second recommendation of wax I have seen along with M-Tecs. Any particular brand you could point me to?

[cwtebay]

Graphite seems to be the consensus on this thread or molybdenum. But maybe I won't waste time and just buy some powder and run it through!

Edit: I fully disassembled everything and cleaned off all the lubrication with 70% IPA since I had it available. I also used some barkeepers friend to remove some of the rust on various parts and wiped it off quickly. Currently it is metal on metal with no lube or rust preventative.

I should have specified - I use 99% isopropyl. HUGE difference. But I have it readily available.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[timboslice]

I should have specified - I use 99% isopropyl. HUGE difference. But I have it readily available.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

At this point, I am going to go through all of them again just to be sure. I recently got a bottle of brake cleaner so I will use that and apply the graphite lube directly afterward.

[NWPilgrim]

Dry graphite (spray or powder) is also supposed to eliminate static cling of the powder. Not so important with stick powders but fine ball powders or light flake powders can really stick to surfaces. You just need enough to coat it at the beginning as the smokeless powders have graphite coatings and will eventually self coat as well.

If I clean it I use Hornady spray case lube and cleaner. Let it dry a bit then wipe off any excess. Then apply tiny amount of dry graphite to any areas the powder flows through and the rotor bearing surface.

[timboslice]

Dry graphite (spray or powder) is also supposed to eliminate static cling of the powder. Not so important with stick powders but fine ball powders or light flake powders can really stick to surfaces. You just need enough to coat it at the beginning as the smokeless powders have graphite coatings and will eventually self coat as well.

If I clean it I use Hornady spray case lube and cleaner. Let it dry a bit then wipe off any excess. Then apply tiny amount of dry graphite to any areas the powder flows through and the rotor bearing surface.

Great info, thanks a bunch!

[gwpercle]

A Dry Lube like Liquid Wrench Dry Lube #L512 works much better than any wet or grease type lube ... I think it better than powdered graphite ...
Spray or use liquid and apply with Q-Tip ... let dry then re-assemble .
There is nothing to contaminate the powder ...
The stuff also helps with rust and is the best boolit mould release you will ever use ... That's right ... Liquid Wrench Dry Lube #L512... try it just one time !
Gary

[Shawlerbrook]

Definitely a dry lube or wax.

[dale2242]

I have used both graphite and Motor Mica.
They both have worked well for me.

[NWPilgrim]

I've waxed the moving parts with regular auto/car paste wax-
the kind that dries & you buff off. I've had had good luck doing that and there's no residue.

I like that idea. I use a couple of squirts of auto wax in dry tumbler on cases. Why not powder measure surfaces? Thanks for the tip.