Pewter

[Delkal]

I'm not really sure how much clearer I could have asked the question.


Here it is again, just for you......

What was the cut off period when lead was taken out of the mix as standard practice. In other words, when did "modern" pewter become a thing.

You did not ask what year lead in pewter was banned. You clearly asked when it was removed as standard practice and that doesn't have an absolute date. Leaded and unleaded pewter coexisted for over 100 years. To know which pewters are lead free you need to be able to identify the types of pewter and that was what I posted in my original reply.

I am still puzzled about your hostile and rude replies to my posts. Why did reading a few sentences telling you which pewters are lead free set you off like that? And you are still doubling down with other members?

[Brad Phillips]

There is no "standard practice" date. The Chinese are still sending us lead paint in products for an example.

[jsizemore]

So this is the deal about english pewter:

By the 15th century, the Worshipful Company of Pewterers controlled pewter constituents in England. This company originally had two grades of pewter, but in the 16th century a third grade was added. The first type, known as "fine metal", was used for tableware. It consisted of tin with as much copper as it could absorb, which is about 1%. The second type, known as "trifling metal" or "trifle", was used for holloware. It is made up of fine metal with approximately 4% lead. The last type of pewter, known as "lay" or "ley" metal, was used for items that were not in contact with food or drink. It consisted of tin with 15% lead. These three alloys were used, with little variation, until the 20th century.[1]

Lead was removed from the composition in 1974, by BS5140, reinforced by the European directive BSEN611 in 1994

The American Pewter Guild lobbied congress to ban lead in pewter and laws were passed in 1960. Sorry I don't have the legislation for you to read.

I've bought post WW2 pewter from SE Asia that has some of the highest tin content anywhere with only 1% copper for hardness. And I've bought thrift shop modern pewter made in Hong Kong that was 15-20% lead. No caulk or seal in the glass bottom to keep the mug from leaking. So not for food service and would be intended for display only. Other lots had no lead.

I hope this clears up things.

[35 Rem]

I always thought the entire impetus for buying cheap pewter was to get the Tin? At least that's why I personally made a few trips to some local thrift stores several years back looking for the stuff. I never found even one item made from pewter. Also, I quickly discovered that sorting through all the different types of pewter - and items that might just LOOK like pewter but weren't - was too complicated for me. So, I waited for Roto-Metals to have a sale back when Tin was relatively cheap and bought a lifetime buy at about $17.50/lb.

[The Appalacian]

So this is the deal about english pewter:

By the 15th century, the Worshipful Company of Pewterers controlled pewter constituents in England. This company originally had two grades of pewter, but in the 16th century a third grade was added. The first type, known as "fine metal", was used for tableware. It consisted of tin with as much copper as it could absorb, which is about 1%. The second type, known as "trifling metal" or "trifle", was used for holloware. It is made up of fine metal with approximately 4% lead. The last type of pewter, known as "lay" or "ley" metal, was used for items that were not in contact with food or drink. It consisted of tin with 15% lead. These three alloys were used, with little variation, until the 20th century.[1]

Lead was removed from the composition in 1974, by BS5140, reinforced by the European directive BSEN611 in 1994

The American Pewter Guild lobbied congress to ban lead in pewter and laws were passed in 1960. Sorry I don't have the legislation for you to read.

I've bought post WW2 pewter from SE Asia that has some of the highest tin content anywhere with only 1% copper for hardness. And I've bought thrift shop modern pewter made in Hong Kong that was 15-20% lead. No caulk or seal in the glass bottom to keep the mug from leaking. So not for food service and would be intended for display only. Other lots had no lead.

I hope this clears up things.

Yes, it does, thank you very much.

[The Appalacian]

I always thought the entire impetus for buying cheap pewter was to get the Tin? At least that's why I personally made a few trips to some local thrift stores several years back looking for the stuff. I never found even one item made from pewter. Also, I quickly discovered that sorting through all the different types of pewter - and items that might just LOOK like pewter but weren't - was too complicated for me. So, I waited for Roto-Metals to have a sale back when Tin was relatively cheap and bought a lifetime buy at about $17.50/lb.

Post # 12......

[jsizemore]

I always thought the entire impetus for buying cheap pewter was to get the Tin? At least that's why I personally made a few trips to some local thrift stores several years back looking for the stuff. I never found even one item made from pewter. Also, I quickly discovered that sorting through all the different types of pewter - and items that might just LOOK like pewter but weren't - was too complicated for me. So, I waited for Roto-Metals to have a sale back when Tin was relatively cheap and bought a lifetime buy at about $17.50/lb.

It took a bit to learn what was and wasn't REAL pewter. Fortunately I lived in a pewter rich environment. There was also the fakes too. So, like lead and it's alloys, I had to learn the difference. I did that by getting out there and looking and learning. There is NO substitute for hands on experience.

[kevin c]

It took a bit to learn what was and wasn't REAL pewter. Fortunately I lived in a pewter rich environment. There was also the fakes too. So, like lead and its alloys, I had to learn the difference. I did that by getting out there and looking and learning. There is NO substitute for hands on experience.

I went through the same learning curve.

Appalachian, kudos for researching manufacturers and production dates to maximize Sn and minimize Pb per dollar spent, but I think most hobbyist casters buying pewter based on price aren’t (or can’t be?) picky. They just: 1) assume ~90% tin and ignore the rest, including any lead, 2) add whatever amount of tin source to the melt until it casts well without worrying about the actual final composition, or 3) get an analysis of melted together pewter so they can mix a specific final alloy (obsessive compulsive me in that 3rd category). Unless we’re talking about junky tankards sold in touristy flea markets, stuff from HK, or figurines or decorative plates (“art pewter”), it’s unlikely to see lead in significant amounts, especially in food service items (see posts above) that are well made and are actually stamped “pewter” (purely a modern snob appeal thing postdating the days of cheap and common tin and lead alloys).

My personal observations that might be of use: high tin pewter can have a silvery look and have a good but not mirror like polish, is thin and of moderate weight and deforms often with a crackling “tin cry” when bent. High lead/low tin alloys are duller and darker, the items are usually thicker and much heavier, and will deform but without the crackling.

Good luck in the hunt and in your casting.

[The Appalacian]

The Mother Load.....

[imashooter2]

That’s a fair pile! Congratulations!

[jsizemore]

That's a really good start. Watch the stuff with handles and feet. They can surprise you. I do them when I got a good amount of melted pewter in the pot. I'll put them in and keep an eagle eye on it to see if they melt at the same rate as the good stuff. I try to keep my melt temp @ 450degF max.

[The Appalacian]

That's a really good start. Watch the stuff with handles and feet. They can surprise you. I do them when I got a good amount of melted pewter in the pot. I'll put them in and keep an eagle eye on it to see if they melt at the same rate as the good stuff. I try to keep my melt temp @ 450degF max.

I'm aware

[jsizemore]

That's good. Some folks that do a search don't.

I saved a bunch of handles and feet. Melted them together and sent a sample to BNE to be tested. The result really surprised be. There was next to no antimony but about 3% copper.