Reloading High Brass Shotshells

[beezapilot]

As a hull scrounger I'm starting to see Winchester Diamond Grade hulls show up, not in large quantities, but they're there.

Essentially they are AA/HS hulls with high brass. I don't load them (low brass for trap & skeet for me), but you slug and buckshot loaders... is that something I should start tossing in a box????????

[Barry54]

The brass height is just cosmetic. Load ‘em and shoot ’em! Or save them and sell them if you prefer.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Yeah...save 'em! High brass is mostly a sales gimic, and reloaded they all perform the same.

DG

[farmbif]

I agree. there really is no difference ive put magnum turkey loads in low and high brass as well as some slugs and buckshot and they all shoot the same.
but I do like the cosmetics of it.

[Minerat]

Back when I started reloading shot shells high brass usually indicated the loads were duck or upland bird hunting loads. I prefer high brass for reloading it just looks better in your vest. The low brass were dove, quail and trap loads. The old books listed the same loads for both and as Barry54 the insides were the same.

Save them is my vote too.

[Johnch]

Use the hulls as AA hulls

I use high brass Federal High Power hulls instead of Low brass Top Gun hulls for only 1 reason
I load a HOT 2 3/4" 7/8 oz steel shot reload that goes 1700 FPS ( A pressure tested load out of a manual )
Interesting thing the quick higher pressure spike is safe
But as it is quick , My Rem 11/87 was pulling the low brass off of some of the cases
So it was not fun having to use a rod to get the rest of the hull out of the barrel while duck hunting

John

[Hogtamer]

I’ll take a box as soon as you can collect them!

[TonyfromItaly]

High brass is raccomended for loads over 10,900 psi. With reused low brass, in a hot load, the plastic hull can separate and get stuck in the barrel.

[Half Dog]

My sizer doesn’t resize the entire brass section on the high brass hulls.

[swamp]

My sizer doesn’t resize the entire brass section on the high brass hulls.

[/I]

I have the same problem with my Mec. Now use a Supersizer on the high brass.
swamp

[Kennibear]

Paper base wad means one reload. Plastic base wad means many reloads. And your question is do you save pickup hulls? In today's world you save everything including stuff you don't load. It is a good barter item for stuff you need and having done this since 1971 I have never seen the droughts of components like in the last few years. Save them? HELL YES!
Use a Lee Loader to deprime and size them the first time.

KB

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[35 Rem]

I always looked more at the construction of the shell and ignored the brass height as it has nothing to do with real strength. I consider any one piece compression formed hull equal for my reloading purposes. And since I was loading only moderate loads swapping wads never bothered me. 95% of my loads were either 16 or 18 grains Red Dot with either 1 or 1 1/8 ounces shot, so no real high pressure loads. About 5% were with 24 grains Unique and 1 1/4 ounces shot. I soon found that all the heavier loads did was spend my money faster as I could hit as many birds with 1 ounces of shot anyhow.