I have a bradford pear tree too close to the house. I want to kill it and cut it down. I drilled a 1/2" hole about 3" deep at a fork, and have been pouring Roundup in the hole from time to time all winter. It sucks into the tree overnight, but it appears it's going to bud out. Any way I can speed this up? If it just "dies", the better half can't complain about getting rid of it.
cut 2''s deep around the trunk with a chain saw.
In the winter there is little sap flow, Round up needs to get to the roots thru the system to kill give it time chances are when it warms up and the tree starts to come out of winter the round up will work down and kill.
old timers have always told me to drive a copper nail into trunk - i never tried it ! -
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Cut it down use your chainsaw to kerf the stump in a crosshatch pattern, spread stump remover into the kerfs.
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Last edited by cwtebay; 03-02-2024 at 12:41 PM.
Yup cut a ring of bark off all the way around the base of the tree removing the bark. Trees drink “feed” up from the thin Cambian layer just under the bark. With the bark removed it also removes that layer so it can’t drink. A beaver rung one of the trees in the backyard last year. I have a new runner coming up from the base of the tree. Trees are like ticks… you can’t kill him. Lol.
But I sure can kill the beaver! Just made jerky out of some.
The tree could still be dead but have enough energy left stored that it’s gonna still bud out and then die. I’ve seen that happen.
Why do you want to kill it before you cut it down?Im sure you’re going to cut it down right after it’s dead but it’s safer and easier to cut down a live tree.
glyphosate (the active chemical in roundup) is a foliar treatment, i.e. the tree/plant absorbs it through the leaves. I'm not going to say that you can't treat a stump/bole of a tree with roundup and eventually kill it, but it's not going to be very effective unless, in my opinion, in great quantities. 2-4-D, garlon, arsenal (triclopyr or amazapyr) would probably be more effective.
"Do not follow where the path might lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail" Ralph Waldo Emerson
You do not want a tree close to the house to die. I have had a few trees close to the house removed that were healthy but one never knows how an ice storm or high wind or both will do to a tree. A dead tree is worse IMO.
I had a professional with insurance do mine.
Don Verna
Originally Posted by dverna
Not to mention how the ground is going to sink when the roots rot. I have giant ruts in my yard and on the river bank from rotted roots. We cut a tree down a few years ago. The “smaller” roots are finally rotting and the ground sinking above them. The main roots have not rotted yet from big maple. It’s going to be a nightmare when they do being they are next to a brick retaining wall.
I was standing in ice water the other day with a shovel filling the river bank back in where the “land slide” happened from rotting roots. I blamed it on muskrats at first till I realized there were not tracks or chewed on branches in the area.
My intent is for it to die, not bud or leaf out, then cut it down.
I've had real good luck killing trees in the Winter by making a few chops with a hatchet that leave an upward facing notch in the bark. Put a few squirts of pure roundup in each notch with a squirt bottle and that tree is going to die.
NH I girdled my huge beech trees in March so they didn't leaf out, felled them in June.
As stated above, a two inch deep slot around will kill any tree.
Amateurs with weed whackers can kill a whole grove.
I found I was one season ahead on drying the firewood by doing this.
These trees were heart rot and some scary to fell.
If your pear tree isn't huge, you could transplant it with a backhoe quickly.
trails4u has it right, Roundup/glyphosate is absorbed by leaves when the plant grows. It has little effect on dormant plants, but can be absorbed by the roots of growing trees when applied too close to the growing trees. It is most effective when sprayed on growing leaves. After application, it takes about two weeks to break down and the ground can be planted, or plants that were dormant when applied will start to grow where the glyphosate was applied.
Girdled was term I wanted to use but forgot.
Id try and get it transplanted too if it’s not too big. If not, those are the branches, I use off my fruit trees for all my meat I smoke!
Rock salt !
If it’s too big, you can just cut down all the branches and let it regrow. “Topping” it basically is what it’s called. Kinda looks like crap to me, but it shrinks the tree way down and let it start all over again.
With my brown thumb---
I've had good luck killing any plant by just wanting them to grow.
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In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.
OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
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EVERYONE!
Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.
Not if you ever want anything else to grow there in the future
Girdle it.
“Remedy” is what you want. We use it to kill mesquite trees. If it will kill them it will kill anything.
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