Snyders JerkyInline FabricationRotoMetals2Load Data
Reloading EverythingWidenersRepackboxLee Precision
MidSouth Shooters Supply Titan Reloading
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 27 of 27

Thread: Simple green removed color case hardened finish

  1. #21
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Feb 2024
    Posts
    13
    Had same thing happen with dollar store "purple power". Must be the effect of caustic (low pH) on the H&R CC???

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Bent Ramrod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Southern Arizona
    Posts
    4,292
    I would imagine that there are complexing agents in most of these new cleaners that will pick ferric and ferrous ions off metal surfaces without dissolving the base metal. Of course, bluing and the oxidation colors formed by color hardening processes are forms of iron oxide, or rust, and this would go away just as easily as surface rust of any other kind.

    I remember when Ballistol came on the market over here, some guy on the old Shooter’s site thought so much of it that he stored his Colt Single Actions in ziplock Baggies, slathered in the stuff. Next time he checked them, his mint finishes were 75%, his 50% finishes were 25% and his 25% finishes were gray metal. An expensive lesson.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    oklahoma
    Posts
    2,492
    Quote Originally Posted by vintovka View Post
    Had same thing happen with dollar store "purple power". Must be the effect of caustic (low pH) on the H&R CC???
    Caustic is high pH, Acidic is low pH.
    Not saying caustic won't damage a firearm, but even a weak acid like the vinegar or citric acid will remove bluing (both relatively mild acids, but "low" pH).

    Concentrated simple green is mildly caustic/alkaline according to online reference. (8.5-9.5)

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Handloader109's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    NW Arkansas
    Posts
    2,531
    All the Biofriendly solutions will do pretty much the same thing. I've used most of them to remove lasered powdercoating from yeti type cups. Shines stainless up well. Now evaporust is a bit different, if you have an old solution that has some residual grease or oil in it, you can get a nice black finish on steel..... and it wears well....

    Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    303
    I wonder if this is one way to achieve a French Grey finish. I remember reading somewhere that one technique used was to color case harden the part and then buff the colors off with 4-0 steel wool.

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master



    M-Tecs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    9,563
    The original Simple Green is relatively corrosive. The aircraft version is much better in not being corrosive.
    Last edited by M-Tecs; 04-07-2024 at 03:29 AM.
    2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

    "Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
    – Amber Veal

    "The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
    - Wayne Dyer

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    303
    Quote Originally Posted by BK7saum View Post
    Caustic is high pH, Acidic is low pH.
    Not saying caustic won't damage a firearm, but even a weak acid like the vinegar or citric acid will remove bluing (both relatively mild acids, but "low" pH).

    Concentrated simple green is mildly caustic/alkaline according to online reference. (8.5-9.5)
    Orange juice does a bang up job. Takes bluing off pronto. I had one friend whose bottle leaked into his day pack and stripped the bluing off his kit gun, another had a spill in the back seat of the car and it really made a mess of his Remington 1100.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check