Reloading EverythingInline FabricationLoad DataTitan Reloading
WidenersRepackboxSnyders JerkyLee Precision
RotoMetals2 MidSouth Shooters Supply
Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: 80% ar questions

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    132

    80% ar questions

    My nephew is wanting to build a couple ar's off 80 % receivers while I still have a mill for him to use .
    He's been rather helpful as I've been cleaning out the shop so I thought I'd buy the tools for him .

    Everything I see is for using jigs , so my first question is , what lenght endmills to get ? That's over all gauge lenght not flute .

    I should note here that I have a 50 taper machine so clearance for the buffer tower is needed for both pockets

    Next is ... is there any real reason to use a reamer for fire control pins over good quality carbide drills ?

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,563
    You can use the shorter endmills and extend them by sweating them into a shaft to fit your holder. A piece of round stock and the standard end mill may be cheaper than a long end mill and it may be stiffer. If you go this route buy single end end mills as you wont get them out to use the other end

    I would use the reamer to get the rounder hole. Drills dont always cut truly round holes.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    rancher1913's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    plains of colorado
    Posts
    3,649
    built a few with friends and family, i use a router to mill and the bit needs to be able to reach the bottom of the lower. normal drill bits work just fine as long as you can drill straight and dont try and push to hard. the fit side to side is more important than top to bottom and use the lockable pins, makes the hole drilling more forgiving.
    if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    132
    I'm not worried about what the tools cost , carbide isn't nearly as expensive as it was even 5 years ago .

    The reason I asked about drills over reamers is good carbide drills are accurate as to size in my experience. I'm just not seeing a need for a reamer here , on location and size should be good ? Unless I'm over looking something what's a tenth or two going to matter ?

  5. #5
    Boolit Master elmacgyver0's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    2,041
    I have only used drills and they worked just fine.
    Nothing wrong with reamers, but you really don't need them.
    Of course, if you are planning on going into combat with it you would-be better getting a 100% receiver.
    I'm not much of a machinist and all my 80%er bubba up receivers work just fine.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master



    M-Tecs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    9,562
    I've never used jigs since I have better options.

    Here's a print with tolerances. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/10...52860788957110
    2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

    "Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
    – Amber Veal

    "The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
    - Wayne Dyer

  7. #7
    Boolit Master Moleman-'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    SW Michigan next to a corn field
    Posts
    1,304
    I've used mostly HSS or M42 cobalt endmills and reamers for the lowers I've done. I did one test lower using drills and while it did work the fit wasn't as nice as my 100% lowers so from then on I've drilled undersized and reamed the FCG holes. I start off by removing as much of the metal as possible with a 1/2" drill then 1/2" endmill and just use the 3/8" endmill as a cleanup and to form the corners. No need to join the FCG pocket to the rear takedown pocket either if you don't want to. I've done both ar15 and 308 framed ar's (the pocket is the same size). The jigs are nice to use and make it almost idiot proof, but also make the endmills required longer. I generally like to just use the side plates to hold the lower and leave the top plate off for milling like you'd do with just about anything else.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails N-15-1.jpg   357AR.JPG   AR10-1.jpg   44BGM-Hybrid.jpg  

  8. #8
    Moderator
    Texas by God's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    14,446
    I’ve used the 80%Arms jig with a router and drill press with excellent results. No problem drilling the FCG holes at all.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    132
    Ok I'm not alone in thinking use a good drill and it's good enough , and if I read things right Its gonna need something like a 4" gauge lenght to clear the buffer tower with my tool holders .

    buying the Tools is as far into this as I go , sink or swim as they say.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    jdgabbard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Tulsa, Oklahoma
    Posts
    2,519
    Just so you know, I still suggest buying a cheap drill press jig if you own a mill. It helps make sure you're within spec, and get your cuts and holes drilled in the proper locations. As to endmill lengths, most of those jigs tell you what size endmills you need with their instructions.
    Currently looking for a Lyman/Ideal 311419 Mold - PM if you have one you'd like to get rid of!

    JDGabbard's Feedback Thread

    "A hand on a gun is better than a cop on the phone," Jerry Ellis, Oklahoma State House of Representatives.

    The neighbors refer to me affectionately as, "The nut up on the ridge with the cannon." - MaxHeadSpace.

    Jdgabbard's very own boolit boxes pattern!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

    rancher1913's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    plains of colorado
    Posts
    3,649
    like i said before but want to say again, your side to side tolerances are the most critical. my jig gets me close and then i use sandpaper to debur and finish the sides so the internals all fit and are not to tight or to sloppy
    if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    132
    I'm not going to encourage the use of a jig , I do get the idea of a visual aid .
    But I still have a piece of granite , i will encourage a little time spent to lay things out beforehand .
    I might be kind enough to show him how to set up the stops using the Dro before making any cuts .
    But mostly I believe I'll stick with the sink or swim philosophy.

    Worst case is he screws up and learns something.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    OKC, OK
    Posts
    371
    Just a suggestion. Check the ATF website for new rules on 80% kits.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check