How Good is Good Enough?

[TXTad]

Even though I've been casting for a long time on the calendar, I actually haven't done all that much of it. I'm still learning how to get good results from my various molds, aluminum, brass, and iron. So far I've only ever cast with wheelweights. I think I get pretty good results, though I still have room for improvement.

One thing I keep forgetting to ask here, and this is me finally remembering to do so, is how critical is it for the tops of the lube grooves to be perfect? Some times I reject half of my bullets because one edge is just a little bit rounded. The bases are good, and there are no wrinkles, but sometimes I just can't get everything to come together perfectly and there is a slight but noticeable roundness, usually only on the front band, and usually only on one side of the mold. I simply reject any like this but always wonder if I'm being a bit too picky.

I'm not talking about big problems like bad bases, wrinkles, or hardly formed grooves, just a very slight problem on a small portion.

[jsizemore]

If you add 1-2% tin that will probably go away.

[TXTad]

If you add 1-2% tin that will probably go away.

That is next on my things to try. I hope @Springfield still has pewter to sell when I get back into things again before too long.

[charlie b]

Depends on how accurate you want to be.

If you are chasing sub-MOA at longer ranges you are probably on the right track. Or if you want bench rest competition size groups at 100yd.

The longer the range and higher the vel the more difference it will make.

But, for plinking at 100yd or so you can stand to have some small defects. I used to keep the 'rejects' just for that reason. Especially .30 cal subsonic loads. I could still get less than 2" groups with them. Then cost of primers went up so I don't do much 'plinking'.

[Winger Ed.]

Clip on wheel weights usually do great. Even mixing them 1/2 & with pure Lead.

For better fill out & all, I crank the heat up until the boolits start to show a little frosting.
Then back off the heat until it just or almost stops.

[Minerat]

I don't shoot a pistol well enough to tell the difference with my rounded edges and minor flaws in the lube groove areas or boolit noses. If they will hit a 6" plate at 25 yards I'm happy.

On rifles I'm a little more picky but on both I want sharp bases, unless using a gas check. I use cast for rifle practice and the accuracy is only of passing interest. I only hunt elk with the rifles or long range vermin so j words are used for hunting loads and sighting in. The exception to this rule is for my BPTR SS .45-90. Then I'm really particular and will cull most unless I want some for case forming then I'll accept some wrinkles or rounded drive bands but not bases.

[Recycled bullet]

Hey get your mold hotter and recheck for improved casting fill out. And as mentioned above, adding tin will help lots too.

[Mk42gunner]

Paper targets do not lie. Not even if they like you.

Try some of your best results against some of your rejects. If there is no difference in group size, no need to be as picky.

Robert

[ascast]

I think you need to ask yourself what is good enough? Are you shooting pistol/rifle plinking with the grandkids? 25 feet or 1,000 yards? Are they shooting OK or are you missing the mark and wondering why? Above solutions are correct. Adding tin has a limit governed by your wallet. The more tin, the better they cast, but at $20-30 a pound... Some bullets cast harder ( difficult) than others. ie the Lyman 457121PH is a 45-70 Loverin style that is about all driving bands. It needs to be hot IMO. The 439186 for 43 Spanish is about impossible to cast poorly. IMO try a little more heat

[35 Rem]

I keep meaning to set aside my rejects such as you described with slightly rounded bands on a place or two to shoot groups against the perfect bullets. I've yet to get around to actually doing it though. It's so easy to just throw them back in the pot and remelt. I doubt it will make any measurable difference for handgun shooting. At least with my meager handgun ability it won't. For a lever action rifle to deer hunt it's bound to make a difference but probably would still give you good enough accuracy to kill deer out beyond 100 yards.

[Bass Ackward]

One thing I keep forgetting to ask here, and this is me finally remembering to do so, is how critical is it for the tops of the lube grooves to be perfect?

Load one chamber with a heavy jacket bullet, the next with a wadcutter, throw in a powder coat, then a light lead slug with no lube, and then a midrange load, you will find that you can still shoot a one whole group if the target is close enough. The further out you want to shoot well, the more things you (and the gun) have to do “correctly”. Experimentation stops when satisfaction sets in. So in the end, it only matters if it does to you.

[Baltimoreed]

Smoke your moulds really good too. I don’t worry too much about how mine look as most of my shooting is minute of sass marshal but if you're not happy with a boolit put it back in the pot. Or use culls for close speed shooting practice and the pretty ones for the match shooting.

[gwpercle]

For handguns ... mix those clip on wheel weights 50-50 with soft scrap lead and to 9 lbs of 50-50 alloy add 1 lb of Lineotype , printers type or any high tin solder or pewter . A little extra tin helps them fill out nicely .
Wheel weights are a bit on the hard size for handgun boolits .
For years all I used was free unlimited COWW but my man retired and I had to stretch my WW supply ... the addition of lead and Tin makes for a better casting and more accurate boolit .
Gary

[dverna]

I have not cast as much as others. I also do not use cast bullets for serious work.

I tried cast rifle bullets and cannot achieve performance that is acceptable to my standards. A handful of guys can do it but for me it is not worth the effort.

I can cast .38 caliber pistol bullets that will group 3” at 50 yards without culling. That is good enough for me.

Your expectations are what matter.

If I am not getting good fill out, I raise the melt temperature, but I do not use any cheap crap I can get for alloy. There is no reason to accept poor fill out. If raising the temperature does not get there, add tin.

Commercial cast bullets are produced by the 10’s of millions. You should be casting bullets as good or better.

[Recycled bullet]

I have not cast as much as others. I also do not use cast bullets for serious work.

I tried cast rifle bullets and cannot achieve performance that is acceptable to my standards. A handful of guys can do it but for me it is not worth the effort.

I can cast .38 caliber pistol bullets that will group 3” at 50 yards without culling. That is good enough for me.

Your expectations are what matter.

If I am not getting good fill out, I raise the melt temperature, but I do not use any cheap crap I can get for alloy. There is no reason to accept poor fill out. If raising the temperature does not get there, add tin.

Commercial cast bullets are produced by the 10’s of millions. You should be casting bullets as good or better.

3" at 50 yards is very very very good! Please, can you tell what molds, gun and technique you are using?

My point of view is showing a 6-in group at 50 yards and it has taken me years to get to this point.

[Willie T]

Even though I've been casting for a long time on the calendar, I actually haven't done all that much of it. I'm still learning how to get good results from my various molds, aluminum, brass, and iron. So far I've only ever cast with wheelweights. I think I get pretty good results, though I still have room for improvement.

One thing I keep forgetting to ask here, and this is me finally remembering to do so, is how critical is it for the tops of the lube grooves to be perfect? Some times I reject half of my bullets because one edge is just a little bit rounded. The bases are good, and there are no wrinkles, but sometimes I just can't get everything to come together perfectly and there is a slight but noticeable roundness, usually only on the front band, and usually only on one side of the mold. I simply reject any like this but always wonder if I'm being a bit too picky.

I'm not talking about big problems like bad bases, wrinkles, or hardly formed grooves, just a very slight problem on a small portion.

It depends on where you set the bar. Casters are their own quality control. I started casting to shoot for less money while putting a son through college. I didn’t cull many of the bullets I cast. I was tickled to death to be making my own bullets for less $. One day I was casting some .45 bullets out of wheel weights when I stumbled right into the middle of the sweet spot and stayed there till I emptied a 20 pound bottom pour pot. That took some of the shine off the bullets I had previously cast. I spent some time and re-melted a good many bullets trying to figure out how to find and work from that sweet spot.
As others have already posted: More heat (turn up your pot or quicken your casting tempo) or a little tin (1.5%-2% added to your wheel weights) will give you better fill out at lower temperature. Good luck and enjoy the hobby.

Willie

[Bazoo]

I will let slightly rounded edges go most of the time. But I am not into longer ranges with a handgun or rifle. I can still get 1.5” at 75 yards with my 30-30 and do about 1.5 at 25 yards with a handgun, benched of course. I can’t normally shoot better so ky works for me.

[Bigslug]

Well, it technically IS an out-of-round / out-of-balance bullet, but if you're just rolling empty soup cans inside of 50 yards, it probably won't matter much.

I'm assuming we're talking handguns? If so, segregate your borderline duds from your good ones, load them otherwise equally, and see how they do. For good measure, throw in some factory FMJ for comparison. There's a spot on the graph for quality of ammo and another for ability of shooter. If you find that you can't exploit any difference, there's little sense in sweating the difference.

But your answer probably lies in some combination of more tin or more heat. Improving the casting technique eliminates - or at least drastically reduces - the need for the question.

[TXTad]

Hey get your mold hotter and recheck for improved casting fill out. And as mentioned above, adding tin will help lots too.

This is why I think I should add the hotplate.

[Recycled bullet]

This is why I think I should add the hotplate.

Get it and let us know how it works! I've been thinking about getting one.

What are you using to melt and pour the molten lead? I ladle cast out of a 1 quart saucepan placed over a turkey fryer. I literally put my mold into the flames to heat soak the mold blocks prior to and periodically during casting bullets.