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Thread: TIL about 9mm brass fired in Glocks

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Angry TIL about 9mm brass fired in Glocks

    I bought an Uberti cattleman II specifically so I could use 9mm brass, of which I have an unlimited supply.

    Almost (but not all) of the brass I picked up at the range would not work. I did not understand why. It all fired fine in my Glock, but would not chamber in my revolver. I falsely blamed my Uberti. It took a *lot* of digging around before I found out what the actual problem was.

    "Glock Bulge". Since the entire case does not go into a Glock, the part that sticks out bulges when it is fired. You can reload it and fire it in a Glock again no problem, but it will no longer fit in any gun when the cartrige has to fully seat. The standard Lee reloading die does not address this. I never noticed as I was firing everything in a G17 and apparently there is a limit to how much it will bulge, so even after multiple reloads no problem. I had to get the "EGW Undersize Reloading Die" that will actually squish that bulge back out and truly bring the case back to factory spec.

    So bottom line - fire new ammo in the revolver and keep it distinct from anything fired in the Glock - or get this die. I pretty much do not buy new ammo so I had to get this special die to fix the range pickups. And resizing with it DOES take a lot of effort. But it works.

    I was unaware that the Lee dies were in fact not full length resizing the case. And that the Lyman ammo checker was telling me the brass was actually good - when it was not.

  2. #2
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    Yes, a well known problem. The small base dies are called the "bulge buster". It does take extra effort to resize Glock-fired brass. However, I did not know it could be reloaded with standard dies and fired again in a Glock, so I learned something. Thanks for posting.

    DG

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Get the Lee Factory Crimp Die for 9mm. This has taken care of 99% of my loaded rounds that wouldn't chamber. You might also grab one of the Lyman loaded case gauges to test your ammo before getting out to the range.
    Currently looking for a Lyman/Ideal 311419 Mold - PM if you have one you'd like to get rid of!

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  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdgabbard View Post
    Get the Lee Factory Crimp Die for 9mm. This has taken care of 99% of my loaded rounds that wouldn't chamber. You might also grab one of the Lyman loaded case gauges to test your ammo before getting out to the range.
    Yes, this ^^^.
    You don't even need to use it to crimp, but more like a 2nd sizing die with the crimp portion of the die backed-off or removed.
    Using it as an actual crimp die could size the seated bullet down if it's bigger than 0.356" dia.
    jmo,
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    Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenstone View Post
    Yes, this ^^^.
    You don't even need to use it to crimp, but more like a 2nd sizing die with the crimp portion of the die backed-off or removed.
    Using it as an actual crimp die could size the seated bullet down if it's bigger than 0.356" dia.
    jmo,
    .
    Right, I should have specified this. Use the FCD as a sizer die, not really as a crimping die. It's tapered, so unlike 38spl for example, it wont size down your bullet when you run it up in there...
    Currently looking for a Lyman/Ideal 311419 Mold - PM if you have one you'd like to get rid of!

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  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    No real reason to get a case gauge to check fit in the Uberti. You have a 6 hole gauge with the cylinder already in hand.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    This is why roll sizers and push through sizers exist. If you have something holding onto the rim, to pull the case out of the die and a radius on the mouth of the die, to allow the case to enter the die...well, the die can't size what it cant touch.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    This is why roll sizers and push through sizers exist. If you have something holding onto the rim, to pull the case out of the die and a radius on the mouth of the die, to allow the case to enter the die...well, the die can't size what it cant touch.
    So is the 9mm the reason you invested in a roll sizer? Or was it something else? Never in 40 plus years of reloading have I ever thought I needed a roll sizer.....but then I don't have your brains, and until this year never reloaded 9mm......much preferring .40 S&W and .45ACP.

    The reason I ask is that I'm reloading for 2 grandsons and a Son in Law who shoot only 9mm..........and I don't want to reload a bunch of crap. No Glocks in that family. But that doesn't mean they won't pick up Glocked brass. I have used a Redding Gx for .40.....but that problem went away with Glock updating their guns. Again picked up brass problems....I don't own a Glock either.
    Last edited by GWS; 01-18-2024 at 05:50 PM.

  9. #9
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    rollsizers are good for 5.56 brass as well as 9mm, if you do a lot of shooting the rollsizer is hands down the way to go, dump the brass in the hopper and walk away and come back to bucks full of samispec cases. since i use a lot of 5.56 military sometimes its shot in machineguns and that leaves a buldge and all 9mm range pick up is rollsized, eaiser than sorting.
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  10. #10
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    I have not noticed any smileys with my 9x19 glock with OEM barrel so far. But maybe I need to look harder and gauge the brass. I do shoot some +P+ federal 115 grain loads.
    But so far it is cheaper to purchase 9x19 factory loaded than to reload for practice ammo at around 25 cents a round. For combat ammo known brand name loads from federal is what I am using, but hope to get a decent price on speer +P gold dot bonded bullets that is the best out there.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    I’ve shot many thousands of range pickups through all of my 9mms using an undersized die and never had an issue caused by a brass case that wouldn’t feed. I’m sure a pretty good portion of these were shot through Glocks and never were a concern using this type of die. I always test dummy rounds in both my CZ and my M&P with a Storm Lake match barrel when using any new bullet design. I do this for seating depth and case seating because both of these pistols have tight chambers and relatively shorter leads, and as long as they pass a plunk test in these barrels they will definitely work in all my other 9mm pistols.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master WRideout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetinteriorguy View Post
    I’ve shot many thousands of range pickups through all of my 9mms using an undersized die and never had an issue caused by a brass case that wouldn’t feed. I’m sure a pretty good portion of these were shot through Glocks and never were a concern using this type of die. I always test dummy rounds in both my CZ and my M&P with a Storm Lake match barrel when using any new bullet design. I do this for seating depth and case seating because both of these pistols have tight chambers and relatively shorter leads, and as long as they pass a plunk test in these barrels they will definitely work in all my other 9mm pistols.
    Same for me; it never occurred to me that I would have to sort for Glock bulge, when all I shoot is range pickup, and they always work. BTW: I use a Lee carbide 9mm sizing die.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by rancher1913 View Post
    rollsizers are good for 5.56 brass as well as 9mm, if you do a lot of shooting the rollsizer is hands down the way to go, dump the brass in the hopper and walk away and come back to bucks full of samispec cases. since i use a lot of 5.56 military sometimes its shot in machineguns and that leaves a buldge and all 9mm range pick up is rollsized, eaiser than sorting.
    Do you deprime the 5.56 first? I've seen some of the rollsizers also deprime, but clearly state you have to sort out any berdan primed brass or else there could be a stoppage.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    Not to steer the thread off course but I always wonder how a case going through a roll sizer doesn’t wind up being out of round. You’re squeezing it from two opposing sides as it rotates so what’s to stop the brass from flowing to the un-restricted areas not being squeezed? A standard sizing die puts equal pressure on the entire perimeter of the case. A roll sizer doesn’t.

    I realize it’s not the identical process but have watched hammer forges and rolling mills squeeze red hot steel slabs and rectangular bars. There’s always growth toward the unrestrained areas. Brass (and steel) can’t theoretically be compressed.

  15. #15
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    I think you sort of answered your own question, Bmi-- the roller would move the bulge to where it's not, making it round (or rounder).

    I'm still kind of scratching my head over the OP's claim that bulged Glock brass can be reloaded in regular dies and then re-fired in a Glock. I'm not saying that it isn't so, because I've never done it. I do own 3 Glocks, but seldom fire them. Bulged brass that I've come by I squeeze down in a small base die, so they work in everything in that caliber. The logic exercise here is that the bulge occurs on one side of the brass where the chamber doesn't provide support, so assuming that Glock chambers are round I can't imagine the reloaded bulged brass fitting back into the chamber unless the bulge just happens to slide into the unsupported area. But again, I haven't tried it, so I'm not saying that it isn't so. Maybe the regular dies squeeze it down just enough to work. Lots of guys just toss Glock fired brass. Can anyone else attest to regular dies working to reload Glock bulged brass that will then fire again in a Glock. Or, maybe I'm misunderstanding the statement.?. What about twice bulged brass?

    I use Lee Carbide Factory Crimp dies on almost all of my pistol ammo, everything that Lee makes them for, and I don't think that a Glock-fired piece of brass that hasn't had the bulge removed would fit through the LFCD's carbide ring. Or, if you use it to remove the bulge when crimping it must take a tremendous amount of leverage.

    All of my Glock bulge reloading experience has been with .40 S&W, .45 GAP, and .45 ACP-- I haven't done 9mm.

    DG

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Der Gebirgsjager View Post
    I think you sort of answered your own question, Bmi-- the roller would move the bulge to where it's not, making it round (or rounder).

    I'm still kind of scratching my head over the OP's claim that bulged Glock brass can be reloaded in regular dies and then re-fired in a Glock. I'm not saying that it isn't so, because I've never done it. I do own 3 Glocks, but seldom fire them. Bulged brass that I've come by I squeeze down in a small base die, so they work in everything in that caliber. The logic exercise here is that the bulge occurs on one side of the brass where the chamber doesn't provide support, so assuming that Glock chambers are round I can't imagine the reloaded bulged brass fitting back into the chamber unless the bulge just happens to slide into the unsupported area. But again, I haven't tried it, so I'm not saying that it isn't so. Maybe the regular dies squeeze it down just enough to work. Lots of guys just toss Glock fired brass. Can anyone else attest to regular dies working to reload Glock bulged brass that will then fire again in a Glock. Or, maybe I'm misunderstanding the statement.?. What about twice bulged brass?

    I use Lee Carbide Factory Crimp dies on almost all of my pistol ammo, everything that Lee makes them for, and I don't think that a Glock-fired piece of brass that hasn't had the bulge removed would fit through the LFCD's carbide ring. Or, if you use it to remove the bulge when crimping it must take a tremendous amount of leverage.

    All of my Glock bulge reloading experience has been with .40 S&W, .45 GAP, and .45 ACP-- I haven't done 9mm.

    DG
    ^^^This^^^
    The old myth of glock bulge dates back to the 1st gen G22, since then glock barrels have improved (still not totally supported though). I own about a dozen glocks & clones & haven't experienced a reloaded round firing in glock exclusively but not in other pistols. Glock bulge if ever, is usually non-concentric & will be an issue loading in any pistol.
    Anyways, i mostly swap to aftermarket barrels since I'm not a fan of polygonal rifling, & I shoot 9s in the same manner as other pistols.
    YMMV
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  17. #17
    Boolit Master

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    I think we may be referring to two different issues...

    1)"Glock" bulge or smiley which I have not seen in 9mm, but was prevalent in 1st gen G22s (40 S&W)
    This is what everyone generally refers to, but possibly erroneously.

    2) Brass fired in Glock 19 chamber is uniformly larger due to Glock having a looser, "combat/defensive handgun" chamber.

    I have not seen an issue with #1 in 9mm, but have first hand experience with Glock and S&W fired brass not being sized enough with RCBS carbide dies near the base to subsequently chamber in my Springfield Ronin 9mm (tighter chamber than either Glock or S&W). The sizing die was screwed down to make firm but not hard contact with the shellholder to size as much of the case as possible. Even then, about 1/3 of my brass would not chamber in the SA Ronin due to the case just above/at the web being oversized for that chamber. All rounds freely plunked in the Glock and S&W chambers.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    My G17 gen5 doesn't have the bulge problem My Sig's P226 and P320 have less support than the newer Glock Marksman barrel. They'll chamber the same ammo as the Glock has fired and I'm using a standard Dillon carbide sizing die.

  19. #19
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    I have been fortunate and have never had the Glock bulge in my pistols. I even have a Gen II Glock 17 9mm and no problems, also a Gen III .40 S&W and no "Smilely Faces" on the brass.

    BUT, I have found .40 S&W range brass that has the "bulge", and guessing by the primer indentation, they look like from a Glock.
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