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Thread: .44 swage dies

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

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    .44 swage dies

    I decided I want to carry my old Charter arms .44 Bulldog more and had it Ceracoated . One issue with the gun is so few good bullets for the 3" barrel velocities I decided I wanted to make my own in a full wadcutter design with a hollow point .
    I use a Lee .309 170 grain mold as a core the first stage turns it into a wad cutter with a center dimple then a second pass with a T-40 bit in the punch puts in a deep 6 pointed hole . So far I am just loading the 177 grain finished bullets with 5.5 grains Red Dot and the bullets expand and often fragment in water . Firing one into a 55 gallon burn barrel that repels a 9mm pistol (all rounds so far) it passes through and goes 4" into sod/sand!

    These dies are set up like the old Pacific dies for half jacket bullets . Sorry about focus I wish it was better the lead bullet shows the opening in the bullet front that core was not coated before swaging . The coating is Enamel Spray paint baked on and can be done either before or after swaging . This is my first try and the bullets are a bit over size at .435" so I size them to .430 separately . Later dies should be correct size I just goofed a bit on these . Click image for larger version. 

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    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    My reason for swaging 44 Mag bullets was to get the most accuracy possible. Worked too! They were very effective on game.

    Good luck on your continuing efforts.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master wilecoyote's Avatar
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    Firefly 57, about your .44 swage dies...
    so far I use .40 cores stuffed inside .40SW spent cases, etc.,so sorry for my naivety: I'm a rookie and I would like to understand more regarding your progression from .309 lead onwards_
    (I own a lathe, just in case ...)
    next: can I use any enamel paint can, spray and then bake,
    or I've misunderstood ?
    thanks!
    Food is overrated. A nice rifle is way more important.
    Rob

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    WILECOYOTE
    My dies are based on the Pacific Swage-O-Matic design here is a link to .PDF :
    https://www.castpics.net/subsite/Man...ge-O-Matic.pdf

    I have made a shorter ram and use a Lyman Orange crusher press rather then pacific "C" press. I turn the dies on a Harbor Freight mini lathe for my own use tolerances are hard to keep and there is some loss of materiel .
    I am using a .309 cast bullet that is coated no jacket in this case the bullet is swaged to .435" (until I cut new die to get .430") this bullet has a centered dimple to help align the T-40 in the next step to form the hollow to aid expansion/fragmentation. The second step is a die that was drilled 1/4" then the T-40 bit was pressed in the 1/4" hole in a Large vise .
    I have been coating bullets for a few years and am mostly using spray paint now I will post my notes below:

    I have been using paint starting with powder coat for sometime now these are my notes on bullet coating so far i really like the process.
    First method was to wet the powder with acetone and shake and roll bullets in it it until it stuck as solvent evaporated.
    Next i used the electrostatic sprayer.
    Last i used spray paint Kylon in my case.
    All bullets should be degreased no matter how you do the coating some like dry tumbling i have not tried that.
    When you bake a batch ALWAYS smash one bullet to make sure the coating does not flake off if it does bake longer and maybe hotter.
    You will see a difference in the paint when it is "Cured" it becomes a thin plastic jacket around the bullet.
    Some people have had great luck with liquid enamel paint they degreased the bullets and add them to a container with a bit of paint and roll and shake until coated.
    NEVER bake in a oven food will be cooked in .
    I like spray paint as i can paint them and then handle them , i usually use three coats while they stand on there bases.
    Wet application requires handling and can be messy while electrostatic spraying needs to be done on the pan or jig you are baking them in as the powder will fall off if touched.
    Do not let bullets touch while baking they will stick together.
    Of the methods i use the three coats of spray paint is the thinnest and works best on rifle bullets with long noses. The other two methods are thick enough to engage the rifling of my 30-30 making chambering hard. I shoot the lee 309170 cast soft at 178 grains to an average speed of 2040 fps with good results . I have also shot cast and swaged .38 bullets in the 1700 fps range fromA a ten inch contender with good results. Most of my loads are common 38& 45 acp velocities no loads that have been properly "CURED" have leaded my bores.
    I have also started loading higher levels for the 45-70 shooting powder painted or powder coated bullets to of 405 grains (417 as cast) at 1900 f/s and the Lee 330 grain mold cast soft (354 grains as cast) @ 2168 f/s both these loads shoot under 2" at 100 yards

    IF You use the powder coat paint wet, I use acetone but other solvents that evaporate will work . I put about a teaspoon of powder in a can or jar add a bit of acetone to make the paint wet (runny wet) then wash the boolits in acetone or alcohol dump the liquid and add them to the can/jar with paint shake and roll until they are coated then remove the lid and roll until the paint sticks well. At that point i dump them out stand them on a baking tray on non stick aluminum foil or wax paper and bake them near or at 400 degrees for an hour . They are sized after they cool. Do not bake in oven that will be used for food again the foil or wax paper is used to keep paint from tray if temperatures go above 400 wax paper can darken and get brittle. I now use a silicone baking sheet some paint does stick to it but it works well for me the bullets are stood on points or bases not touching to bake .
    Paint has very little mass bumps and blotches seem not to adversely affect accuracy i should test this further but have not yet as i get all the accuracy i need for now .
    I have since swaged some coated .185 lead wire and made .224 bullets they did not lead the barrel at about 3000 f/s my dies burr the bullet base and accuracy was awful . I used the cup from a large rifle primer and swaged the core into it as a gas check to get rid of burr accuracy improved quite a bit.
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    Tatume Most of my .44 bullets is cast boolits it is a caliber that lends itself very well to them I do have a Ruger Carbine that I only shoot jacketed in because of the gas port . Because I do not shoot it a lot I have stuck to factory bullets . I have experiment with and made some very decent bullets with .40 S&W cases even annealing the cases well did not get me good expansion in water when fired from my 8 3/8" S&W (to the left).

    I could not imagine getting any expansion in the 3" Bulldog barrel and .44 sp. Some would say it is not needed , that is another discussion for another place .
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    Actually, I failed to mention that I swage cast bullets, without jackets. First I lube and size them, then when I run them through the swage die the incompressible lube preserves the lube and crimp grooves. Whether the improvement in accuracy is real or imagined, I enjoy hitting a swinging 6" plate at 100 yards shooting standing offhand with iron sights. The gun is a 10-1/2" Ruger SBH with a Bowen target sight. Hits are nearly 100% and I usually shoot 100 full-power 44 Mags in a session. And they are really nice looking bullets too!

  7. #7
    Boolit Master wilecoyote's Avatar
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    FIREFLY1957, thanks for your incredibly patient and thorough answers !
    Food is overrated. A nice rifle is way more important.
    Rob

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy Kai's Avatar
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    Since you are set up for it have you tried half jackets with a lead core?

  9. #9
    Boolit Master wilecoyote's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kai View Post
    Since you are set up for it have you tried half jackets with a lead core?
    ...who is the question addressed to?
    Food is overrated. A nice rifle is way more important.
    Rob

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy Kai's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilecoyote View Post
    ...who is the question addressed to?
    this question is for the OP. Firefly1957

  11. #11
    Boolit Master wilecoyote's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kai View Post
    this question is for the OP. Firefly1957
    ...
    Food is overrated. A nice rifle is way more important.
    Rob

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    Kai I do indeed use half half jackets in .30 , 357 , & .45 caliber I have some 44 half jackets but just made the dies and have not used them yet .
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master

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    Wilecoyote Your welcome .

    Tatume I have done the same I experimented with 162 grain cast .38 bullets that were both gas checked and not and lubed and squeezed them to .452" . They shot quite well in my .45 acp at 1100 f/s sometimes the lube grooves were not straight but they still shot well .
    I have also swaged the same Lee .309 coated bullet to .452" and the coating stayed put not peeling of getting ruined.
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master


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    Firefly,
    I like your idea of making dies similar to the Swage o Magic dies, they are similar to the
    Herters 9 Ton dies and are fairly easy to make.
    I have made a set for 32 cal bullets and use a gas check on the base if I am going to use them in my 32 H&R magnum brass. I mainly do 32 S&W Long brass since I have more of it

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by deltaenterprizes View Post
    Firefly,
    I like your idea of making dies similar to the Swage o Magic dies, they are similar to the
    Herters 9 Ton dies and are fairly easy to make.
    I have made a set for 32 cal bullets and use a gas check on the base if I am going to use them in my 32 H&R magnum brass. I mainly do 32 S&W Long brass since I have more of it
    I have seen people making .30 caliber bullet jackets from 5.7X28 cases they may do well for your .32 also?
    I have yet to find one of those 5.7X 28 cases at my club and do not shoot the round so I can not even begin to try them out.
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  16. #16
    Boolit Man SSG_Reloader's Avatar
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    Oh yeah 5.7 cases make great 308 projectiles but I'd guess there'd be an issue on the length vs weight needs for a 32 due to the base of brass turned projectile lengthens the projectile a good bit.

    I bet 50 bmg primers would be amazing 32 jackets.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master Lead pot's Avatar
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    I have C&H .44 and .45 Keith semi wadcutter swage dies I used for pistol bulls eye matches and they shoot very good. They are made for the loading presses, I used them with the RCBS BIG MAX. They swage the 1/2 and 3/4 jacketed bullets in good shape.
    Instead using cases for the .30 calibers why not just use copper tubing ? works very good.
    I pretty much quit swaging because I can cast a bullet that shoots just as well as swaged with the fine custom moulds made now days. I should get rid of all that unused equipment.
    These bullets were swaged using both Dave and Richard Corbins equipment.


    Click image for larger version. 

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    You mentioned full wadcutter HP they shoot well in the .44-77 too

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Lead pot; 01-22-2024 at 08:38 PM.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master

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    Lead pot I have set a couple rifles and more pistol up and just shoot cast from them getting very high performance .
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by SSG_Reloader View Post

    I bet 50 bmg primers would be amazing 32 jackets.
    I was thinking the same thing!

  20. #20
    Boolit Bub
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    Richard Corbin has really nice set of 44 dies in stock at the moment.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check