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Thread: Car battery tester)

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    When testing a battery, you need to put approximately the starter draw amperage on the battery for an extended period of time. This tests the reserve cranking capacity of the battery. Normally a 15 second load time is used. A 15 second continued cranking on a started is not at all good for the starter. A carbon pile load tester can simulate this load without damaging the starter.

    In order to properly test a battery, you have to put a heavy load on the battery for a given period of time to see how much cranking power the battery actually has. As batteries get older they can still hold a bit over 12 volts but as soon as a load is put on them the voltage drops below what it takes to start the engine.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
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    Why would an individual want to invest in a testing tool that will only get used every few years? A good one will cost close to $100. Depending on the application thats half the cost of a new battery. Starters don't fail like they used to because engines start faster and easier thanks to fuel injection and electronic ignition.

    If you're that worried about it take the battery to a parts place and have it tested.

  3. #23
    Boolit Bub



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    Quote Originally Posted by Hannibal View Post
    Why would an individual want to invest in a testing tool that will only get used every few years? A good one will cost close to $100. Depending on the application thats half the cost of a new battery. Starters don't fail like they used to because engines start faster and easier thanks to fuel injection and electronic ignition.

    If you're that worried about it take the battery to a parts place and have it tested.
    Well, I think some of us like to be ready to diagnose and fix anything, and as a result have a nice collection of tools.

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  4. #24
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    pworley1's Avatar
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    I have been using one of these for years and have been very pleased with it.
    https://www.harborfreight.com/100-am...y+load+testers
    NRA Benefactor Member NRA Golden Eagle

  5. #25
    Boolit Master



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    get a battery with at least a 5 year life and during the cold, cold winters when the car is parked hook up a self regulating charger. Don't invest in cheap batteries.
    Death to every foe and traitor and hurrah, my boys, for freedom !

  6. #26
    Boolit Man Jadkins87's Avatar
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    As others have said the newer cars and trucks draw power 24/7 and when the temps drop quick they have a hard time stabilizing.. A good load tester will run well over $100 in my experience..

    God Bless

    JDAS

  7. #27
    Boolit Master Handloader109's Avatar
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    No one posting has told you the one thing that is significant. You charged the battery and it now shows 12v. The battery is bad. If it is much at all below 14v it is going bad. You don't need a tester.

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  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy shaggybull's Avatar
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    Is your alternator bad and not charging the battery?

  9. #29
    Boolit Master deces's Avatar
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    for about $50 something like this might be worth a try.
    These men and their hypnotized followers call this a new order. It is not new. It is not order.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master



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    if you want to check your alternator start the car let it warm up then take a simple volt meter and connect the leads to the battery posts. You should read 14.5 +- 0.5 volts for a 12 volt battery.

    the other thing to remember about the battery is that the connections at the battery terminals to the ground and starter motor have to be CLEAN
    Death to every foe and traitor and hurrah, my boys, for freedom !

  11. #31
    Boolit Buddy
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    I've got a Solar brand battery tester and it works well. Tests different types of batteries and also checks the charging system. Was also about $55 and available on Amazon.

  12. #32
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    It may just be a vicious rumor, but I've heard from a couple places that Ford vehicles have more draw
    when they're 'off' than other cars & trucks, and will 'eat' a battery sooner
    if you don't crank 'em up & drive them fairly often.
    That's certainly true of my 2009 Explorer. I can't leave it 10 days without having to jump it. Even with a new battery installed in October. Since I prefer to drive my Odyssey except in bad weather, I've had to install a permanently mounted maintainer and plug it in like Alaskans do with their block heaters.
    Cognitive Dissident

  13. #33
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    "My" approach" is a tad different... With age I seem to drive my truck less and less, and after the second or third needing a jump this really got tiring! So, I purchased a replacement battery, and soon had similar dead battery when I wanted to go somewhere. I took truck to dealership and they claimed battery is good; charging system is good; and, what they call the parasitic draw (alarm, remote starter, etc.) is in specs.
    My solution? I went to WallyWorld and bought a Stanley brand jump starter. It set me back all of sixty U.S. dollars, and I've had it and used it when needed for at least a decade! And I've been a "hero" providing jumps for a good many folks who discovered their dead batteries at stores, the range, et cetera.
    Just a thought -- the newer jump starters are smaller and even less expensive that mine. I never "need" to get anywhere in milli-seconds; to open the hood and clip on the Stanley; start the Tacoma's engine; slam the hood and be on my way adds but a very few minutes. AND, it provides reassurance that -- wherever I've driven -- I can start my truck for the return trip.
    Just MY approach...
    geo

  14. #34
    Boolit Master elmacgyver0's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by .429&H110 View Post
    My dad taught me to turn on the headlights, start the car, headlights dim brown, there's your starting amps.
    Headlights should dim a little but not much. Cheapest battery test.
    Your dad was right... back then.
    With the new LED head lights, probably not so much now.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by elmacgyver0 View Post
    Your dad was right... back then.
    With the new LED head lights, probably not so much now.
    Excellent point. Amperage draw is significantly different.

  16. #36
    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    We have a truck we seldom drive, so I got a 2A trickle charger and installed it under the hood. It was $12, and the truck always starts immediately. I like it so much I did the same with the tractor.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tatume View Post
    We have a truck we seldom drive, so I got a 2A trickle charger and installed it under the hood. It was $12, and the truck always starts immediately. I like it so much I did the same with the tractor.
    It is or was common to put a small solar charger on boats there were in storage or set up for Winter.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
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  18. #38
    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    It is or was common to put a small solar charger on boats there were in storage or set up for Winter.
    I have one of those too. It puts out 7.5 watts. But how does that compare to a 2 amp charger and why did they switch units. The reason is it looks like a bigger number. Watt = volt x amp, which means that at 12V the 7.5 watt charger is putting out 5/8 of one amp. That's on a clear sunny day. It turned out to be insufficient to maintain the battery in a modern vehicle. The 2 amp charger keeps the battery up, and does it at night and on cloudy days as well.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    I don't know if all NAPAs do this, but around here if you can drive it to NAPA they will put a real analyser on it and test the battery, charging system and voltage regulation for free.

  20. #40
    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    Most auto parts stores will test batteries. I bought two new batteries for my F250 7.3L diesel truck and one went bad right away. Advance Auto tested both batteries, found one defective, and replaced it. The truck has been fine ever since. All I had to do was stand there and watch.

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