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Thread: Foundry type?

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
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    Foundry type?

    Is this foundry type? Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	321677 or can you advise what it is. Im starting to clean out my excess stash. Thank you much.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pitchnit View Post
    Is this foundry type?
    Sure looks like it.
    That stuff is usually alloyed up pretty hard too.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I have some permanent type, some call it foundry type. Anyway it looks like what you have. Several years back I poured some boolits out of that stuff for my 303 Brit, they sure were purdy. Hard as Chinese arithmetic. Dang things broke off at the case mouth when chambering.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by beemer View Post
    I have some permanent type, some call it foundry type. Anyway it looks like what you have. Several years back I poured some boolits out of that stuff for my 303 Brit, they sure were purdy. Hard as Chinese arithmetic. Dang things broke off at the case mouth when chambering.
    Yeah, you got to mix it with some a bunch of pure lead and maybe a little tin to get it more balanced.

    Tim
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  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Foundry Type has a notch in the back of it. I can't tell by the picture if yours does or not. It may be Mono Type. Either one will be very hard!

  6. #6
    Boolit Man
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    Some of this has a notch in the back. Most do not. Have been doing some research. It is confusing. Articles seem to indicate mono however most include caveats. These have a flat foot and a low notch in the back indicating mono. Article states foundry type has a grooved foot and a center notch. I have approx 45 lbs. Do both have value to us as casting material (sweetners). I would like to offer for sale but want to make sure I do not misrepresent it. Probably need to find an XRF gun for analysis. Will try to link the article for anyone interested. My thanks to the Masters who have responded. https://swamppress.com/pdf/Type%20Identifier-new.pdf

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Both are valuable to casters, especially ones that are sitting on tons of pure lead. Also anybody looking for very high antimony lead. All those people wanting to dissolve antimony into lead? Well this is a much easier and more accurate solution.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by beemer View Post
    I have some permanent type, some call it foundry type. Anyway it looks like what you have. Several years back I poured some boolits out of that stuff for my 303 Brit, they sure were purdy. Hard as Chinese arithmetic. Dang things broke off at the case mouth when chambering.
    Years ago, I cast some 147gr 9mm out of foundry type and they broke off at the case mouth when chambering, I have used a lot of foundry type to turn soft lead in to 6-2-92 alloy.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Years ago I got an assortment of type metal. There were some pieces that looked like foundry type. But when I added them to my pot they didn't melt at normal casting temperature. I removed them from my pot and later tried to melt them with a torch. They appeared to melt similar to aluminum. These seemed to be lighter than lead alloy but heavier than aluminum. I have no idea what they were.

  10. #10
    Boolit Man
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    For sure NOT aluminum. Positive its a lead alloy, Just not sure which one. I'm leaning towards mono.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master ACC's Avatar
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    I would alloy it 8 pounds pure lead and two pounds type. You don't need to add any tin since it is high in tin. Been there done that.

    ACC

  12. #12
    Boolit Man
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    Stopped at the closest scrap yard today. They did not have a XRF gun since the are a satellite yard. Suggested I go to the next town over as they do have one and told me they would scan at no cost. Maybe In a couple days. Here's a couple more pics. Larger block lettering is 3/4" tall, just FYI. I mainly cast for .45ACP and use WW and range lead. Sorry crappy pics.
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	321735Click image for larger version. 

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  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by ACC View Post
    I would alloy it 8 pounds pure lead and two pounds type. You don't need to add any tin since it is high in tin. Been there done that.

    ACC
    If it is really foundry type and you alloy it like that you will end up with 91.6-3.6-4.8 alloy that would certainly not need more tin but if you do add just a bit of tin you would be almost spot on for Lyman #2 alloy.

    Tim
    Words are weapons sharper than knives - INXS

    The pen is mightier than the sword - Edward Bulwer-Lytton

    The tongue is mightier than the blade - Euripides

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    Way back when, I was shooting bullseye competition, I cast some 38 WC bullets out of a mystery alloy of handset printer's type. I was shooting at a bullseye 50' indoor match, with my 52 S&W. On one of my targets, I had an extra hit. Unknown where it came from. The range officer gave me a reshoot. On that target I had an extra hit also. Since no other one was shooting, it had to come from my gun. The only explanation was, my bullets were breaking in half around the circumferance, because they were so hard and brittle. Fortunately I did not load too many of them. The remainder went back in the lead pot, mixed with some pure lead.

    40 years later, some of my former team members still talk about that event.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Well, If they were both X's I would have claimed magic and wanted them both scored!!!

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    Unfortunately they were not X's.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check