Can't Find an Answer to Lee 9mm Mold

[oley55]

+1 on the .357 sizer die.

Another thing I don't think anyone mentioned is that if the mold cast undersize you can "beagle" it with a couple small pieces of high temp. flue tape. I have had success doing this with several molds, include a 6 cavity 356-125-2r.

Yes beagling works but from my experience at some point during a lengthy casting session one of the pieces of aluminum tape will fall off unnoticed. I have used 4 different types on tape (high temp and regular) and have not found one that won't eventually turn loose without warning. Just saying...

I have considered taking a spring load center punch to one side of the mold but keep chickening out. But I do keep thinking the spring loaded punch would be more likely to displace the same amount of metal with each punch.

[charlie b]

Instead of beagle just lap the mold. I have done that several times over the years.

Cast a bullet. Stick a screw in the base of it and clip the head off. Chuck it in a slow speed drill. Light coat of fine valve grinding compound. Clamp the mold around the 'lap' and turn slowly. If multiple cavity I will even count turns to make sure I do both the same. Check dia until you get what you need. This can also do a slight 'clean up' of an out of round mold.

Realistically you can get a few thousandths this way. Side benefit is the bullets will drop out of the mold easier as well.

And, IMHO, the 6cav molds are better for a number of reasons. Main one being they maintain a more even temperature. Second and maybe more important is the sprue plate. I've never liked the thin sprue plats on the 2cav molds. The 6cav have the nice opening lever and thick plate.

PS Lee intentionally 'undersized' the cavities compared to RCBS and Lyman. The goal was to produce a bullet cast from WW that did not need to be sized. We cast many thousands of rounds and never used a size die with any of them. .32, .357, .45. My first size die was bought simply because I started using gas checks on some bullets and needed to crimp them.

[jdgabbard]

I've had Lyman moulds both out of round significantly and undersized. I bought a used 311041 a while back and it was .008 out of round best I recall. I complained and Lyman replaced it for a fee. The new mould left a fine on the nose as I recall. I ended up selling it and getting a used mould that was out of round, and had Eric Ohlen work it over for me. So... for all the cost and headache... I came out way under compared to buying from Accurate.

I've run into a few Lyman molds that had some issues. Particularly those made around 2008-10ish. I haven't bought many Lyman molds since then, but the ones I have have been OK. I definitely prefer Ideal molds over new Lymans. The older molds seem like they had a higher level of QC, and have been well broken in.

I was aware that they drip at the nozzle so I also ordered an ingot mold to catch the drips.

I ordered the Lee TL356-124-TC 9mm Luger, 38 Super, 380 ACP (356 Diameter) 124 Grain Tumble Lube Truncated Cone mold.

I haven't used that mold, but I hear it's generally a good one. If you get into PCing bullets that is an easy one to bump up the diameter with just powdercoating. I powdercoat everything now...it's far better than LLA and traditional lubing. One more think, that bullet might work in 380, but it's really too heavy for it. You want to stay in the 85-95gr range for that caliber.

While the pot is new and before you fill it, get some valve grinding compound at a local parts store. Use it on the valve rod and spout to get a nice mating surface and leaks will be very minor if any at all.

I would just make sure if I did this I clean out the pot really well before adding any alloy to it. Last thing you want to do is go fire-lapping your barrel...

Instead of beagle just lap the mold. I have done that several times over the years.

^^^ This. Lapping the mold is by far a superior method. With an aluminum mold this is almost too easy to do - easy to over-do... But if you need to get a bullet that is slightly fatter and round this is the way. I like to roll my cast "slug" on a flat file to get it some cut-outs to hold debris and extra lapping compound. Though, I must say doing this with TL bullets can sometimes be hit or miss, the end product doesn't appear as nicely as traditional lube groove bullets in my opinion.

[Finster101]

Quote Originally Posted by Finster101 View Post
While the pot is new and before you fill it, get some valve grinding compound at a local parts store. Use it on the valve rod and spout to get a nice mating surface and leaks will be very minor if any at all.


"I would just make sure if I did this I clean out the pot really well before adding any alloy to it. Last thing you want to do is go fire-lapping your barrel..."


Really? Have you ever done this? You use so little lapping paste you are not going to ruin anything. I love how folks know so much about something they have never done. I will leave the rest of this thread to the experts. Good luck on your endeavor.

[jdgabbard]

Really? Have you ever done this? You use so little lapping paste you are not going to ruin anything. I love how folks know so much about something they have never done. I will leave the rest of this thread to the experts. Good luck on your endeavor.

You're absolutely right, I haven't lapped the valve in my pot. But that doesn't mean that making sure it is clean isn't a good idea. Isn't that the whole reason behind fluxing and scrapping the sides of the pot, as well as fluxing your melt while smelting? This seems like a small suggestion to get worked up over.

For the record, I think it's a nice idea, and might even try it the next time I buy a Lee Pot (No idea when that will be, but I've been considering it as mine is starting to show it's age). I was just making a suggestion to make sure it's clean afterwards....

[mgunner]

While the pot is new and before you fill it, get some valve grinding compound at a local parts store. Use it on the valve rod and spout to get a nice mating surface and leaks will be very minor if any at all.

Where do I find it? Home Depot doesn't seem to carry it. Since I've never used it before, how long and how much pressure is needed to polish the surfaces?

[Dusty Bannister]

Valve grinding compound might be a little coarse due to the size of the grit. If you did a seach for lapping compound, you would have come up with a product at WalMart and with various sizes of grit. The added benefit would be the material can also be used to lap a mold to get a smooth surface and allow the cast bullets to drop from the mold easier. Are you checking and responding to PM's?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Y-H-M-Car...7dc69ab01bd83a

[Finster101]

Dusty you are correct, I should have said lapping compound.

[fredj338]

I have found final cast size, regardless of mold manf, can vary quite a bit. Alloy & casting temp are the bigger factors. My Lee molds tend to run about 0.002" over with range scrap, but it varies a bit from mold to mold.

[charlie b]

For lapping I'd not go larger than 200grit and I prefer 300-400 grit.

[cpaspr]

Regarding the recommendation to size to .357" vs .356", I'm going to say "It depends".

I have a Ruger SR9c that will feed (and shoot) 9mm cartridges loaded with .358" cast or Berry's plated bullets. The same rounds wouldn't even start into the tight chamber of a friend's S&W Bodyguard.

So, maybe .356" is right for him, or maybe .357" is. He's ordered the .356" sizing die. If they don't shoot well after being sized, assuming the as-cash dimension is larger, then he can consider getting a larger push-through die.

I have some 9mm boolits cast that I have yet to size. I'll run them through the .357" Lyman die I got last year first. If they fit and shoot okay after that, I'll be done. If they need to be sized lower, I'll run them back through the Lee push-through die I already had.

[lightload]

Guys new to casting aren't likely to beagle or lap a mold. Does the op own a caliper or micrometer?

[mehavey]

size to .357" vs .356", I'm going to say "It depends".

Troops, I'm running 357s using all sorts of range pickup brass in multiple Glocks, M&P Shield/2.0s, and SIGs.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph.../post-12796932
No issues.


(The usual YMMV disclaimer of course)

[paul edward]

Do let us know what weight and diameter you get. Also what diameter your barrel slugs to.

Your 124 grain bullet may be heavy for the 380. I have had good results with Lee TL356-95 RF in my 380. With my scrap metal alloy these drop at 97 grains and .358 diameter. I do not size them as my PK slugs at .357.

Agree with earlier post, you do not need a .356 sizing die.

[RogerDat]

+1 on the lapping compound for the spout and valve of the bottom pour. Rescued a Lee bottom pour from a sale that was useless until I placed the pin in at the right angle to seat in the valve and turned it a few times with a screwdriver. I also added some weight to the handle so it pulled the valve down more firmly. I think one can slip a few nuts over the wire to rest against the wooden handle.

I use a Lyman little dipper to ladle pour and it works fine to feed a 6 cavity mold. I don't think I have used it for really large bullets like 255 grain 45 but no problem pouring 4 cavity 200 grain rifle. I used a ladle until I got the aforementioned bottom pour used and missing parts bottom pour cheap. I do use a 20# melter which does help keep up with the ladle. Can't use the bottom of the pot with a ladle so that reduces the usable capacity. A 10# pot has to be refilled much more frequently than the 20.

I have used the lapping compound on a bullet to adjust a mold and turned the screw in the bullet base with a screwdriver something to do while watching TV.

Worth remembering one can also use valve grinding paste and lapping compound on a Lee sizing die. I used an old patch end from a cleaning kit with patches to apply the compound. Provided the spin with a cordless drill. I wasn't trying to remove much metal as much as trying for a more polished service that was a tiny bit larger.

I love tumble lube. I do it in zip lock bag half to a third filled with bullets that I just roll from hand to hand and dump the lubed bullets on a tray to dry. No easier way to crank out lots of ready to use bullets. I like PC for bullets that I'm going to push harder where the extra time and work pays performance benefits.

I think it is accurate mold that wants to know the alloy you want the mold cut to work with so they can take that alloy into account when cutting the cavities.

I think I have a Lee 2 cavity in every caliber I load. Allowed me to have something to cast with for that caliber as well as being an inexpensive way to try a different weight. Many don't see a lot of use as they have been replaced of higher quality and/or more cavities. Some of the TL models from Lee still see regular use.

[Elpatoloco]

Strongly recommend the OP order the Lee 0.357 sizer, and load/shoot that for 9mm cast.

This is the way. All of the 9s I have cast for eat .357.

Guessing what any Lee mould drop as far as size........flip a coin. Set up to powder coat and forget it.

[1eyedjack]

Had good luck using automotive rubbing compound to polish cavities and sizing dies helps keep me from getting too aggressive and imparts a nice shine. Someone suggested placing a 1/4" nut over the cavities and pouring lead through the nut into the cavities without the sprue plate in place then use a nut driver to turn the lap instead of the screw in a cast bullet.

[mgunner]

Do let us know what weight and diameter you get. Also what diameter your barrel slugs to.

Your 124 grain bullet may be heavy for the 380. I have had good results with Lee TL356-95 RF in my 380. With my scrap metal alloy these drop at 97 grains and .358 diameter. I do not size them as my PK slugs at .357.

Agree with earlier post, you do not need a .356 sizing die.

I'm casting 9mm for a carbine. I used casting alloy and my barrel .356. I'll let you know what diameter I get.

Still waiting for my mold. I'll let everyone know what diameter I get. If they cast larger I'll shoot them that way. Then I'll size them just to see how it affects accuracy or if leading occurs.

[mgunner]

Good idea. I'll post back when I cast and let everyone know how it went.

[Bazoo]

mgunner, as you can see, we're all enthusiastic about all things cast bullets! LOL, glad to see you sticking around, Welcome to the forum again!