Great job!!!!!!!!!
Great job!!!!!!!!!
"Everyone has a plan, until they get punched in the face!" - Mike Tyson
"Don't let my fears become yours." - Me, talking to my children
That look on your face, when you shift into 6th gear, but it's not there.
put your gas checks on first - use a fired case that will slip fit over the boolit as cutter - cut off case head and attach plastic tubing, this allows you cut several (many) before emptying the tube, you may have to shop around for the right tubing, hardware, auto parts etc. I used big film cans in a old fry pan with boiling water in it. I always had a fixed temp on the lube melt. I could lift out the "done" pan and set it on a towel with crushed ice. Put another in the pan to melt. It all seemed to work well.
What i do:
For every caliber i shoot/cast i have a case that was fired and i cut of the bottom.
I take a round DRY stick/piece of wood and cut a hole a 0.1mm bigger than the outside of the boolit.
I drill all the way thru.
Then i take a drill that is 0.1mm smaller than the case and i drill 50% on the way thru.
So you can push all your lubed boolits thru.
What i also do/use is a oven plate and some small pans/cans.
I place the naked boolits in the plate cans and then i warm it up, slowly.
So the heat will also soak into the boolit.
Now this something most people wont understand:
The boolits hardness will settle again after THREE months.
So if you have a favorite lead recipe it will return to it hardness, really.
after the grease/vet whatever, is finally molten (due to the mass of the boolits)(means a flat shiny mirror image on the surface of the vet)
The vet/grease and the boolit are at equal temps, now this is very important!
now you want to shoot the next hour? yes put it in the freezer...
I dont like any boolit that had some heat in the last three months....
Sooo see them tomorrow, before cutting them, patience will bring so much more and can do so much more.
After hardening the vet/grease you can cake cut them out, with a case as i described.
After this you can run them in a adapted lube a sizer of what ever brand.
I make use for my revolvers a arbor press which i also use for gascheck making.
I just drill a hole to accommodate the sizer and a another hole to let the boolit thru.
Yes this was a speeding up in my progress! for my parkerhale1200 (1945) i still use single stroke vet press and not pan lubing.
And a custom-made boolit mould)
I hope this rambling is giving you some food for your thought and i hope my English was clear enough.
With best and kind regards Igor
Caster/reloader for 45 years.
Many thanks to this forum to help me shoot lead in semi auto(223) and my 308 (dad) rifle!!!
Find the puppy in my profile pic..(4 dogs)
I use a small frying pan heating it slowly at low on a Coleman stove I cast bullets with . I have a brass fitting I drilled out to cut the bullets out with .
I have made a couple steel cookie cutters it is possible to size a lead alloy bullet .001 or .002 inches with hand pressure but the sizing area needs to be short and best near the bottom of cutter . I also use home brew lubes there is a area for those on castboolits the hard part is picking one!
When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |