Circuit breakers

[Jim22]

The reason for this advice is that the appliance is designed for the lower amperage. The circuit in the wall will support the higher amperage but the wiring in the appliance may not. Be safe. Get the proper circuit breaker to be safe.

Jim

[.429&H110]

Posted this before so I will post it again
I was in a wire fire 100 amp 480v just would not open
The main finally opened and stopped the fire
Circuit breakers can weld their contacts and just don't help
Change out old breakers when you can.

Doing service work I found an old lady running on one thirty amp sloblo fuse so I composed

"Old Miss Johnson had a fuse e i e i o
on this fuse she had a tv e i e i o
with a toaster here and a light bulb there
here a hair dryer, there a heating pad
she only worked them one at a time e i e i o

So I installed a 200A panel, and chased out the knob and tube.
She still does not know why.
I am sorry that it cost a lot of money to install that microwave.

[Battis]

Per the owner's manual:
"This appliance must be supplied with the proper voltage and frequency, and connected to an individual, properly grounded, 40 amp (minimum) branch circuit protected by a circuit breaker or time-delay fuse."

So, what would be the "proper circuit breaker"?

[Winger Ed.]

So, what would be the "proper circuit breaker"?

40 or bigger.
The appliance will draw what it wants/needs.
You need a circuit breaker and properly size wires to accommodate it.
The breaker protects the wires from getting a overload for their size, heating up, and possibly starting a fire.

Bigger is OK. Running it on a 50 or 60 amp wires & breaker works like plugging in,
or running a single 100 watt light bulb on a 20 amp circuit & breaker.

Those people who have a breaker that trips easily, and just swap in a larger rated one 'because it fits'
in the panel can burn down their house.

[jsizemore]

Per the owner's manual:
"This appliance must be supplied with the proper voltage and frequency, and connected to an individual, properly grounded, 40 amp (minimum) branch circuit protected by a circuit breaker or time-delay fuse."

So, what would be the "proper circuit breaker"?

As an old electrical teacher would say "The 40 amp breaker will afford you better protection."

[Bmi48219]

geo, I'd agree with you with the obvious exception of Federal Pacific breakers and panels. They are definitely out-dated, and dangerous. Many jurisdictions require them to be replaced in any commercial dwelling before you can pass the Fire Marshall's inspection.

As a side comment regarding breakers:
We bought a beachfront condo in the late 90’s that had been built by the Kaiser Development Corp in the late 60’s. The same Kaiser that built WW2 Liberty Ships and Industrial Facilities all over North America. Fourteen years later we decided to sell it. The purchaser had the place inspected. The condo unit breaker panel was a 100 amp Federal Pacific that, according to the inspector was dangerous, banned, and had to be replaced prior to closing.
That condo development was one building, four floors, twenty units on each floor. Coincidentally all the electrical mains, meters and feeds for the twenty units on our floor were in an electrical vault/room next door our unit. Virtually EVERY breaker and disconnect, and all the feeds and sub-feeds were also Federal Pacific. This was (and still is) true for the entire development.
I pointed this out to the purchaser and put him in touch with the insurance company that carried our Association policies. He bought our condo, FP breakers and all.

That building was 100% cast Concrete and CMU construction with steel studs throughout. The only wood it contained were the kitchen / bathroom cabinets and personal furnishings. When we sold our condo (2014) the development still conformed to the latest Miami-Dade Construction Codes, including those for wind, hurricane and fire safety.

If I understand it correctly the Federal Pacific fire problems were the result of overheating and this was (I think) attributed to aluminum wiring. Whatever the cause, FP breakers and replacement parts were still available at HD in 2014.
A fire requires a fuel source.

[Hannibal]

As a side comment regarding breakers:
We bought a beachfront condo in the late 90’s that had been built by the Kaiser Development Corp in the late 60’s. The same Kaiser that built WW2 Liberty Ships and Industrial Facilities all over North America. Fourteen years later we decided to sell it. The purchaser had the place inspected. The condo unit breaker panel was a 100 amp Federal Pacific that, according to the inspector was dangerous, banned, and had to be replaced prior to closing.
That condo development was one building, four floors, twenty units on each floor. Coincidentally all the electrical mains, meters and feeds for the twenty units on our floor were in an electrical vault/room next door our unit. Virtually EVERY breaker and disconnect, and all the feeds and sub-feeds were also Federal Pacific. This was (and still is) true for the entire development.
I pointed this out to the purchaser and put him in touch with the insurance company that carried our Association policies. He bought our condo, FP breakers and all.

That building was 100% cast Concrete and CMU construction with steel studs throughout. The only wood it contained were the kitchen / bathroom cabinets and personal furnishings. When we sold our condo (2014) the development still conformed to the latest Miami-Dade Construction Codes, including those for wind, hurricane and fire safety.

If I understand it correctly the Federal Pacific fire problems were the result of overheating and this was (I think) attributed to aluminum wiring. Whatever the cause, FP breakers and replacement parts were still available at HD in 2014.
A fire requires a fuel source.

I would be FAR more concerned about aluminum wiring inside a structure than anything else materials-wise. General Electric tried aluminum wiring in locomotive applications. Those that didn't burn up had to have the aluminum wiring removed to be replaced with copper.

That was a few decades ago. It was never tried again in a locomotive.

[popper]

I did the estimate for the ceiling lighting in KCI airport. We didn't get the contract. Company that did was kicked off and we got to replace the Aluminum wiring, cost plus 10%. 350 and 500W mercury lamps in each corner of the cast ceiling. Al wiring cracks when bent sharp and expands - causing insulation failure. One solution in residential is to pigtail the Al with Cu at any switch or receptacle. Kapton insulated Al is a NO-NO. The elec code was written by insurance company and exists for a reason. Oh, beware of big box store breakers!

[kerplode]

All this back and forth...Poor OP still can't cook his breakfast, lol!

I think the obvious best answer is to connect the stove to four 10A circuits wired in parallel...

[Battis]

All is good. The stove was delivered and set up, had it all checked out professionally (wiring, breaker) and everything is great. The only thing that annoyed me was that to use the air fryer, we had to set it up with WiFi. Set it up, then bypassed it and it works manually without WiFi.
It was easier buying a car than a stove.
Thanks for the replies.

[BD]

It is the basic design of the Feral Pacific breakers that is dangerous. They still account for something like 3,000 home fires per year in the US. While I certainly wouldn't be as nervous in a concrete and steel building, an electrical fire would still ruin your day, (week, and month).

[Hannibal]

It is the basic design of the Feral Pacific breakers that is dangerous. They still account for something like 3,000 home fires per year in the US. While I certainly wouldn't be as nervous in a concrete and steel building, an electrical fire would still ruin your day, (week, and month).

Can you provide a reference for that figure? I know FP breakers are often viewed as dangerous and perhaps rightly so but I like to know my opinions are based on verified facts.

Please don't take this as a personal attack, that's not my intent at all. I'd really like to see an information source is my motivation.

[MUSTANG]

All is good. The stove was delivered and set up, had it all checked out professionally (wiring, breaker) and everything is great. The only thing that annoyed me was that to use the air fryer, we had to set it up with WiFi. Set it up, then bypassed it and it works manually without WiFi.
It was easier buying a car than a stove.
Thanks for the replies.

When our Electric Range destroyed itself due to Main Line Power Surge - We replaced it with a Canadian Built Propane stove because we could not get an Electric, Natural Gas, or Propane Stove that was "USofA" that was not California Compliant. California Compliant inevitably puts all sorts of California Mandated features and controls into it that are not user friendly or controllable; or downright dangerous in an environment that can get to minus 35 Fahrenheit in the Winter and the power goes out.