Table top lathe recommendations??

[uscra112]

The biggest knock on those Atlas/Sears lathes was that the gearing and pulleys and I think the carriage were a zinc alloy called Zamak. If kept antiseptically clean, they'd last a while...if not they wore out in a hurry. I wonder what they were thinking......other Atlas machines I have (horizontal mill and shaper) are much better made. Sears was notorious for demanding products built to their price; I suppose that might have had something to do with it.

[country gent]

On those little atlas and other change gear lathes the zmack cast gears were a plus they were meant to be the "weak" link as simple inexpensive part to replace when you got a little heavy and broke one. On quick change gear boxes there is a coupler with a shear pin. not bad to replace but more work the just buying a change gear. I suspect those gears saved a lot of machines from way more serious damage. That weak link was designed in to the machine to be a easy quick to replace fix when operators had an oopps, rather than the lead screw or feed in the carriage.

[Chill Wills]

I wonder what they were thinking......other Atlas machines I have (horizontal mill and shaper) are much better made.

You have an Atlas mill??? Those are very good for the size and what they are.

[uscra112]

Yup. Bought it from North Coast Machinery in Detroit many moons ago. Didn't use it much, and I'm ashamed to say that it never got set up again when I retired to Ohio in 2009. Still sitting on it's skid in my basement.

[jdsingleshot]

as for the Zamak, the first batches were inferior in the 1930s. Later ones pretty good. I've had four Atlas lathes and never had a change gear break in 50+ years.

[lead chucker]

I have a Sig C3 7x14 from little machine shop and like it. The only thing i would do different would be get the one that has the 500 watt motor mine has the 350 watt and stalls some times especial when threading bigger thread. I have made alot of things with it. Made small cannons, swaging dies for my 308 and 223. Lots of little tools and parts. Even made a cap maker for my black powder percussion rifles. So far no regrets. I also bought there 500 watt mini mill and realy like that.

[trails4u]

Well....one of these is now on the way! Supposed to be here on the 23rd.... Have a few small projects already lined up...modifying an M-die for use in 8x50 Siamese....finishing some 35WCF brass....and I'm sure many, many more as my buddies study on the prospects.

[country gent]

Nice looking machine. You might consider changing out the tool holder for a quick change model. Not so much for the quick change but for the ability to adjust to center line with several sizes of tools.With that tool block if you grind on the top of the tool or use a different size you have to shim up to center.

What tools did it come with. a drill chuck, live center, and a few square HSS tools will be handy. I would recommend starting with HSS cobalt bits easier to sharpen and special grinding wheels arnt needed to sharpen or grind. Pick up 6 or so to start out. A fine grit stone for honing tools edges is very useful. A few #3 center drills will also be useful

What sizes are the tapers in head stock and tail stock? a 1/2" drill chuck will cover most of your needs . Now having the lathe bigger drills shanks can be turned down to fit the 1/2" chuck.

This machine should give fine service and be a big help in making cases and other odds and ends.

When working in brass a small gaurd may be a help. One can be made from lexan and a small magnetic base used to attach it.

[trails4u]

countrygent: I picked up a basic tooling package to start with, along with a magnetic base dial indicator/test indicator set with points.



I know I'll need more as projects come along with greater complexity.....but feel like this should be a good start, and certainly enough to get me going with some basic brass conversions. Very much looking forward to getting started and re-learning what I'm sure I've forgotten in the 25+ years since I've run a lathe!

[country gent]

Youve got the basics in that kit I was recommending other than the HSS tool bits. Thats enough to get you thru most projects. Eventually a knurling tool would be a good addition. The next is a machinists hand book and or a few other books with the needed info in them. Something that gives the standards for different things like threads, fits, tapers and such. With the lathe you can make taper shanks chuck mounts and tooling as needed. When out and about the town pick up a short length of 1" copper pipe, this can be cut split and bent into soft jaws for the chuck.

[country gent]

If you need a base nut made or modified for the new tool post let me know.

[uscra112]

I needed a knurling tool to do some tiny adjuster nuts for a tang sight on my Unimat. This one works.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Doesn't put stress on the spindle bearings or the cross slide screw.

[country gent]

Little Machine Shop offers a lot of tools in this size range . I made my knurling tool for my Nardinni and smaller lathe.

While he wont need it for working brass for other projects a oil dripper is nice to have, Not hard to make and will drip cutting oils on a tool or drill saving a hand for other things. I built one into my knurling tools hand wheel.

[lead chucker]

Trails4u Thats the one i wish i would have bought should serve you well once you get it tuned up. I also bought those kits. I have acquired a lot more since then. One thing i would recommend would be a good 4 jaw chuck and some good cobalt drill bits. One other thing is if you ever do a lot of polishing with polishing compound protect the way under the chuck especially Eventually it will start to ware over time while doing other projects. You wind that thing up and it will sling polishing compound all over the place

[uscra112]

I can't imagine spinning a polishing wheel in a lathe, but good advice if you ever do.

Related advice from an old-time machine tool rebuilder (me): Use a powerful vacuum to collect chips, and get a couple of 1" paint-brushes. Never use compressed air to clear chips. We used to refer to air guns as "the rebuilder's best friend", because of how they'd drive abrasive swarf into every critical nook and cranny. Get in the habit of keeping the machine as clean as you can. When I worked at Hoffacker the machine shop would cease all work at 3PM on Friday, and spend the last two hours of the day deep-cleaning every machine.

[lead chucker]

uacra112 I'm talking about when your work is still in the chuck and you are polishing it. I have never put a polishing wheel in the chuck. When you are making something that needs a real good fit once you get real close you can polish it so its a really nice fit. Maybe thats not the right way to do it but its how i do it.

[nuclearcricket]

Trails, the lathe I have is virtualy the same with a few small exceptions. I do have the same toolholder and was surprised to find out that you can swap tools and they are within .001". I found that out turning a bunch of small parts where I had to turn and cut off.Here is a link you need to book mark and keep handy, its a gear calculator for threads. https://littlemachineshop.com/refere...ange_gears.php
Comes in very handy. For future consideration, a 4" 4 jaw chuck is a good investment. For my lathe I made a collet chuck to hold ER-40 collets. They come in very handy for holding stock and they have a fairly open range of sizes that a collet can hold. For these small lathes I have found that HSS or Cobalt lathe blanks are about the best. Both are easy to grind up and to keep sharp. A lathe is a very handy tool to have on hand. Give it a year and you will wonder how you got along without one.
Sam

[lead chucker]

I'm making another little cannon right now with mine. Lots of fun. You loose time when you play with the lathe, when you start its 7 pm next thing you know its 1:00 in the morning. Like the last post said once you have one how could you live with out one. Next is the mini mill then you are in business. Make round stuff with the lathe and square stuff with the mill then incorporate the two to make what you want.

[nuclearcricket]

LOL @ Lead chucker. Yes a mill is a nice addition. I got very lucky on a mill. I picked up a nice used G074 (https://www.grizzly.com/products/gri...th-stand/g0704) off of Craigs list at a price that was waaaaay too good to let go. It wasn't used hard or abused but does have a couple of issues. I will say this much, it is an accurate mill. I have done some small jobs on it and it did what I wanted. I kind of have a bit of an advantage being a retired toolmaker. When I left the work force, what ever was in my tool boxes came home with me. I have a lot of goodies. Buying tooling is getting pretty expensive any more but if you are a good shopper you can still find some things at good prices. Down side is a high percentage of the stuff is made off shore. That being said. The items I have added to my tooling collection have been of good quality. My Mill collets are from China, my rotary table I think was made in India. Maybe the finish on some of the stuff is not as nice as the US made items but it seems to work just as well. I have a German made boring/facing head that I paid more for than my mill. But its a very nice boring head. Even my rotary table is very nice and I got it new at a price that made it well worth while to purchase at the time. Endmills are a bit pricy but if you shop around you can find some good buys out there. Even my home working micrometers are from China but they have a good feel to them and are accurate.
The world of machining things is a fun and unique place to play around in. It is nice to think up a project that you want, draw it up and then turn it into something.
Something else you will need to look into is a source of materials. The one that I use is Onlinemetals.com. And there are others out there as well. this just happens to be the one I use and have been happy with their service over the years.
Happy chip making.
Sam

[country gent]

I use online metals a lot but I also got lucky when I bought my friends shop I got a few tons of cuts drops and stock all labeled as to what they are. There is a lot of 4140 pre hard tool steel and cold roll. Another to watch is shop auctions they will sell all the cuts drops and stock in one or 2 lots. Small machine shops in the area are a good source of small pieces also.

Some of the small mills are better than a gigger machine in that they are a bed mill and dont have as much table rock on long parts. The knew mills ( bridgeport style) can pick up .003-.005 just running the table over center in the opposite direction. The minis wont cut fast but with patience they get the job done. Most times a little careful sawing and you can cut way done on the amount of mill work. when making parts with shoulders we would rough saw them in with in .100 or so saved mill time.