Table top lathe recommendations??

[trails4u]

So...I've been chewing on this for a while now, and I think it's time to get into a table top lathe. Uses, for now, would primarily be for brass forming (thinning rims, bases, etc.) but at the same time, I'd like to have something substantial and accurate enough that I could take on small machining projects either for my own use or as a service to others in the future. I don't see barrel work in my future, so don't need a super long bed....I was thinking a 7x12 or 7x14 size machine.

Anyone have experiences...recommendations?

Thanks! Trails...

[rbuck351]

I started with a 7x10 but found the working space to be too limited. I bought a 14 in. bed and am glad I went with the 14". I did have to do a bit of filing/shimming on the bottom of the head stock and tail stock to get it to align properly with the bed but I'm quite happy with it now. It's plenty accurate for brass forming, neck and rim thinning and such.

[country gent]

I have a 7x10 harbor freight lathe. It is good for small odds and ends work, but the small spindle bore and short bed are limiting to what can be done. Any part past the chuck a drill chuck and drill really eat up the 10" bed quick. If you have room look for a 20" bed.

For small work like modifying and prepping brass, polishing small parts, making small parts. they are good but limited. The problem is as your skills and experience grows so do the jobs. The longer bed allows for this growth.

Here the 7 X 10 sits more as I also now have a 12 X 40 and a 14 X 40 in the shop. They are bigger heavier machines. But at times the 7 X 10 is the machine of choice. The small machines like these are great for the hobbyist that dosnt have a lot of room they can go on a shelf when not needed.

When buying make sure what the dials read some read actual size some read movement ( metal removal is double what the dial show). What tooling comes with the machine tooling is a big cost of getting a machine up and running. Ie collets 4 law chuck drill chucks tool holders face plates indicators one really nice addition is a read out on x and y axis but its not necessary.

[jdgabbard]

I've read some good things about the Vevor 7x14 Lathes. Like all lathes, there are some things that are somewhat considered almost mandatory upgrades. But from what I understand they're an awesome product for their price. I've been considering breaking down and buying one.

[HWooldridge]

I started with a 10x24 and really could not see myself under that between centers, primarily because you have a tail stock to consider on many types of work. 12" to 14" isn't enough space to be practical for much beyond watch work. I'd rather have a small South Bend or Atlas rather than a newer import from Cheena or Taywon.

[uscra112]

Micro Mark has a good one for about $1500, and it's the only one that has true inch leadscrews and dials.

https://www.micromark.com/

I've been buying from MicroMark for 20 years or so - good folks that stand behind what they sell.

https://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-7x16-Mini-Lathe

[Hannibal]

You'll never wish you bought a smaller lathe. Just sayin'.

[uscra112]

You'll never wish you bought a smaller lathe. Just sayin'.

I'd hate to be doing the kind of work the O.P. mentioned on my South Bend 10" Heavy. In fact I bought a used Unimat 3 just so I wouldn't have to. Had I not lucked into the Unimat, I would have bought the MicroMark lathe I posted about.

[fg-machine]

This is mostly true up to a point . Where and when size should size be a concern ? That is all down to one's intended use .

My first lathe was a 24" swing monster lodge&Shipley bought to do a specific job . I didn't make a single complete part before I was telling myself that I need to get a smaller lathe if I ever want to do other work .

I think the sweet spot for most home shop types is going to be in the 9"-13" swing range for sheer versatility .
Everyone like to say you can do small work on a big lathe but you can't do big work on a small lathe .
Yes , but try turning something smaller then 1/4" on a 16" swing lathe with a 200# Chuck and a 800 rpm top end .

I also believe that for nearly everyone bed lenght is going to be of way more use then swing dia , unless your buying for specific uses 18" is about as short as one should go ... look at all the mentions of running out of room for drills as an example.

[Hannibal]

I'd hate to be doing the kind of work the O.P. mentioned on my South Bend 10" Heavy. In fact I bought a used Unimat 3 just so I wouldn't have to. Had I not lucked into the Unimat, I would have bought the MicroMark lathe I posted about.

Funny you'd mention that specific lathe. That's exactly what I have.

It's not fast but neither am I. I'd not want a smaller lathe but I profile my own raw blanks and chamber through the headstock.

[uscra112]

Threading and chambering are about all I do on it anymore, and as I age out I do very little of that. I did mount the collet setup last month to make a small part that had to come out of 1" bar. But after I had it roughed out, and the 1/2" hole drilled through, I cut it off and brought it upstairs to finish on the Unimat. My back is so bad now that I can't stand in front of a machine tool for long.

[dverna]

Be patient and get a used one. Most are lightly used and go for half the cost of a new one.

I bought a Jet 9x20 years ago for $750 that retailed for $1500. The guy had used a it about two months and decided he wanted something bigger. IMO 20” between centers is the shortest I would go.

[georgerkahn]

Back in the early 1970s I splurged and bought a Unimat SL. Most folks suggested it is a toy and too small for serious work. I cannot list all the real serious work this fantastic little machine has accomplished for me through the years! My thinking at the time -- which hasn't changed -- is for MY needs it is big enough to do 98-99% of my needs; the other 1 or 2%? I can over-pay machine shops with huge lathes many, many times for these projects -- and still be lots of money ahead! (As a side note I feel the same vis welders -- I'm happy with my oxi-acetlyene rig, and farm out the big stuff).
geo

[uscra112]

We had a regular on the ASSRA site who built an entire Sharps Borchardt action on a tabletop lathe/mill some years ago.

[country gent]

Everything on a big lathe is heavier and more work t move and handle The little 4" chuck is maybe 5 lbs the 16" chuck is over 100 lbs tail stocks are the same. Moving all that weight for only small parts is a tiring pain. Size the machine to what you want to do. One of the most used lathes in any shop is the speed lathes. A machine with a bigger spindle bore and 20" bed will co a lot a 6-8" swing with the 20" bed and 1 1/4 -1 3/8 spindle bore is a very handy size. The hardringe speed lathes are very nice machines to run very accurate very versatile and easy on the operator. Same with the small Harrisons tool room lathes. What Im saying is this my 7 X 10s tail stock is around 10 lbs, the 12 x 40s is around 40-50 lbs and the 14 X 40s is probably around 70-75 lbs. the difference between them over a days time is a bunch.

[uscra112]

Exactly.

I'm trying to think of anything in gunsmithing, save barrels, that needs more than maybe 16" center-to-center. If that.

[elmacgyver0]

At some point, you will want to work on barrels.
You may not think so, but it will happen.

[trails4u]

Anyone have personal experience with a Sieg, Wen, or the Central Machinery from Harbor Freight? They're all comparable in price....and all in the 7x14 or 7x16 range, which is where I think I need to be....for now.

[uscra112]

My only experience with Harbor Freight is that once you've taken delivery you're on your own. No parts, no service.

[trails4u]

Appreciate all the input guys.....

I'm leaning toward this: https://littlemachineshop.com/produc...ProductID=4959 understanding that it's not big enough to do everything I might ever want to do, but small enough to be easy to work with for making obsolete brass, which is my primary need/business interest at this point. I'm guessing everything in this size/price range is comparable, and all made in China, but I'm just not in a position...yet...to spend thousands on a high-quality lathe, nor do I think I need to at this point to achieve my immediate end.

Hoping to hear from folks with first-hand experience with any of these models....particularly if there are any I need to just stay away from!

Appreciate you guys.... One thing I love about this place....so much experience here and folks willing to share it!