Another Project: US M1842

[TheAbe]

Was determining which board to post this on, but determined that the Milsurp group would have the most positive outlook on how I’m going to proceed on this one. Picked up an M1842 this week on G-Broker (gee now I’m broker than I was). Advertised as a “very poor, 41” .695 Cal BP muzzleloader wall-hanger,” what I got was a very dirty but surprisingly good shape Harpers Ferry M1842 manufactured in 1850. And for less than what RTI is selling Carcanos right now.
My plans: restore to an original configuration/condition. It’s all getting cleaned, the rust is coming off, and the stock is going to be re-extended to full-length. I think I’m going to try and fill-in the initials someone carved in the stock as well. It seems more consistent with the later sporterization than something done by a soldier, but does anyone have strong opinions why I should leave these? Already cleaned the stock and applied some boiled linseed oil to start the remoisturizing process. Will Post as things progress.




The lock is in fantastic shape internally


Inspectors mark on the stock. There is a “JAS” mark under the buttplate as well. This is the wood after cleaning with hot water and Murphy’s wood soap.

And the initials carved in after oiling

[JSnover]

If "JPN" could be identified and you could glean some of the actual history of this piece, then maybe I'd want to keep them. If not, it wouldn't be wrong to fill them in. Without knowing the unit this rifle served in, it might be near impossible to figure out who he was.

[WILCO]

I'd clean it up and run as is.

Great job on the rescue!

[Dutchman]

The initials are post-war. The good fellow who was issued this musket had a first sergeant who would have beaten his backside with a leather strap for defacing gov' property. The initials belonged to the fellow who cut off the stock to make it lighter when out hunting Bambi, IMO. These m/1842 were issued during the Civil War.

I would do minimal to the stock.Boiled linseed oil for about a month. I heat it up just so you can dip your fingers into the linseed oil to rub it into the wood. The smell will grow on you (and your clothes). Its a good test for your wife to be tolerant of your passions. Just keep repeating to her how wonderful and natural the smell of boiled linseed oil is and smile when you say it. Its organic!

I've fired a m/1842 musket.

Leave the initials.

Dutch

[Deadeye Bly]

I've restored a few of these for N-SSA shooters. I would leave the letters as it is a part of the history and does not detract from it. Filling them would be a bigger detraction. It looks like you are fortunate that the rear band is intact. Splice the new forend under the rear band. Don't make a butt joint they are very weak. Make a tenon joint at least an inch long. I make replacement forends that you can buy thru S&S Firearms. Original bands are expensive and hard to find with a good front one going for $200 or so. Band springs are also hard to find. Good luck with your project.

[Rockingkj]

I agree leave the initials. Part of the history of the gun and filling/removing probably causes area that would not look right.

[JoeJames]

I traded for a fairly minty Model 1861 - 1863 Norwich contract. It also had initials on it. Not a biggee, and I reckon I will leave well enough alone. I suspect they are of the period.

[TheAbe]

Bly, I was going to buy on of those forends. Nice to see who they are made by, and thanks for the recommendation on joining it.
Ok, time for some controversy: I’m giving all of the metal a bath in Evapo-Rust. Here’s the before and after test on the barrel band. My reasoning: the old parts are going to have to match the new parts I buy. I simply can’t afford original parts. I like the results though. Smooth finish, no etching, no pits, and no more rust.
Before

After

[Deadeye Bly]

Here is what I mean by a tenon joint. This is one I repaired that had been done with a butt joint that had failed.

[TheAbe]

Taking it a step further, would it also be of benefit to have the pin of the band spring go through the tenon? The spring would be doing double duty in that case.

[TheAbe]

Mocking-up the parts minus the barrel, I think things are cleaning up nicely.

[TheAbe]

Barrel cleaned up fairly well, as did the ramrod. I have 2 inquiries though.
1) I noticed the marks on the breach plug are off from the barrel by about 10 degrees. I believe the barrel was un-breached at one point and the plug not installed properly. Should I break it loose and align it properly? The barrel and percussion nipple will be at a slight tilt if I don’t.
2) The ramrod is bent from years of floating freely the last 2.5 ft. How do I best go about straightening it?

[Deadeye Bly]

Yes, the breech plug should be installed properly. Be careful removing it. They can be stubborn but at least it has been out previously. A little penetrating oil and some heat may help. The ramrod is heat treated but can be bent without breaking it. If you have a lathe it will help identify the bend location. If not place it in a vise and bend it back straight. Don't expect to get it all at once. Take your time to get it straight enough to work. Rolling it on a flat surface will help identify where you need to bend it.

[TheAbe]

Went to Harbor Freight yesterday and bought a basic carving set and a combination mortise gauge. For reference, Bly, in your photo there is a separate tenon between the two forend pieces because this was a repair to a butt joint right? If starting from scratch the correct way would be to form a tenon out of one end and cut a mortise into the other? Should the tenon extend from the original stock then or the other way around?

[WILCO]

Good thread. Enjoying the progress.

[TheAbe]

Took a drive to Track of the Wolf today and brought along the M1842. The plug is 3-degrees off, and the mutual conclusion is that likely it’s been in that way so long that it’s not going to leak any gases, and there shouldn’t be much impact to how it operates. The threads for the percussion nipple were too far gone to replace with the proper one, but they had an M9-1 threaded one that I can bore out the original hole a bit larger and cut completely new threads, and the threads should be safe. I also picked up some powder and .648 lead balls while I was there, so I may do a live fire test before the forend-extension takes place. 30 min drive and I saved myself shipping and hazmat charges, yay!

[Deadeye Bly]

Yes, I prefer to have an integral tenon. It makes no difference which piece it is on, it works the same. Sounds lie you are on the way to having a working gun.

[TheAbe]

Progress updates: patched the wood cracks and have 4 coats of BLO on it now. Ramrod is now straight enough. Here is a photo of it reassembled. Problem though: the nipple threads are sheared off and there isn’t a larger size available, though I did get a 9x1.5 from Track, it’s only wedged in there and not currently usable. I think my only option is to have someone machine the hole larger then weld in a threaded collar. Thoughts?

One other concern: the wood seems fragile. I took an auto punch to it per my usual practice to make a divot to keep the drill steady when patching the cracks, and each time the wood broke through before the punch activated. That shouldn’t happen, though it was on thinner parts of the wood. Is that going to improve with more linseed oil absorption and curing?

[GregLaROCHE]

Looks like you have a great project. However, I agree with the others who say not to fill in the letters. They may add to the valve and it would be almost impossible to fill them in, without it being noticeable.

[Wayne Smith]

Progress updates: patched the wood cracks and have 4 coats of BLO on it now. Ramrod is now straight enough. Here is a photo of it reassembled. Problem though: the nipple threads are sheared off and there isn’t a larger size available, though I did get a 9x1.5 from Track, it’s only wedged in there and not currently usable. I think my only option is to have someone machine the hole larger then weld in a threaded collar. Thoughts?

One other concern: the wood seems fragile. I took an auto punch to it per my usual practice to make a divot to keep the drill steady when patching the cracks, and each time the wood broke through before the punch activated. That shouldn’t happen, though it was on thinner parts of the wood. Is that going to improve with more linseed oil absorption and curing?

No. BLO does not completely polymerize. Minwax makes a wood hardner that is designed for rotten wood. Something like that is what you need.