Colt 1917 on the way

[Cane_man]

Finally bought a Colt 1917 after wanting one for years, need some insights from CB forum.

I will casting and reloading this cartridge, what works for you?

[reddog81]

Measure the cylinder throats and go from there. Any reasonable weight bullet will work OK if sized correctly. I have used everything from 165 grain SWCs to 260 grain wadcutters. I've been using Titegroup lately for use in 45 ACP revolvers. 4.5 to 5.0 grains will work well with any bullet under 230 grains and for bullets 230 grains or heavier stick with 4.5 grains TG. Hopefully you have big hands because the grips and trigger reach are on the large side.

[hpbear101]

I size .454 for mine as that's what the cylinder throats measure.

My double action pull was extremely heavy so I replaced the hammer spring with a python spring from Jack First, now I have a poor mans python

[Rusty Goose]

I size .454 for mine as that's what the cylinder throats measure.

My double action pull was extremely heavy so I replaced the hammer spring with a python spring from Jack First, now I have a poor mans python

Huh, I wonder if that would work on my 1909?? I had not thought of that.

[Baltimoreed]

Official Police mainspring will work too.

[Bigslug]

Auto Rim brass - life's too short to mess with moon clips as a regular thing.

The 240 (ish) grain 452423/454423 was Elmer Keith's bullet for the .45 Auto Rim, it dispenses any notion of aerodynamic efficiency in favor of a large 75% meplat for maximum crush capability. Perfect for what that revolver is about.

The NOE TL452-234-RF was a project I launched as a group buy with Ranch Dog working out the blueprint. The goal was a tumble lube .45 Auto bullet with the semi auto feeding attributes of the LBT 452-230 LFN. In the middle of the group buy discussion, some clever member suggested we turn the front TL groove into a crimper to make it more revolver friendly. Might be a good multi purpose slug for you. https://noebulletmolds.com/site/prod...52-234-rf-bi2/ Currently out of stock, but the Accurate 45-230H could easily be custom-ordered with that same tweak if you wanted to roll-crimp in Auto Rim or .45 Colt brass.

[Thumbcocker]

Check out Rimz brand plastic moon clips. Easily load and unload acp brass with no special tools or hassle. They have been very durable for me.

[Cane_man]

Auto Rim brass - life's too short to mess with moon clips as a regular thing.

The 240 (ish) grain 452423/454423 was Elmer Keith's bullet for the .45 Auto Rim, it dispenses any notion of aerodynamic efficiency in favor of a large 75% meplat for maximum crush capability. Perfect for what that revolver is about.

The NOE TL452-234-RF was a project I launched as a group buy with Ranch Dog working out the blueprint. The goal was a tumble lube .45 Auto bullet with the semi auto feeding attributes of the LBT 452-230 LFN. In the middle of the group buy discussion, some clever member suggested we turn the front TL groove into a crimper to make it more revolver friendly. Might be a good multi purpose slug for you. https://noebulletmolds.com/site/prod...52-234-rf-bi2/ Currently out of stock, but the Accurate 45-230H could easily be custom-ordered with that same tweak if you wanted to roll-crimp in Auto Rim or .45 Colt brass.

this is the direction I was thinking about going, how do you think the NOE 454255 would work out (I have this mold)?

45 AR brass can't be found right now, anyone want to part with some send me a pm and see if we can work something out!

[Cane_man]

I size .454 for mine as that's what the cylinder throats measure.

My double action pull was extremely heavy so I replaced the hammer spring with a python spring from Jack First, now I have a poor mans python

Haha that's great, was it an easy install?

Can this revolver be dry fired without worry to damage?

[rintinglen]

It is not hard, but it can be a little fiddly. When you remove the old spring, gob some grease on the little yoke on the hammer to keep it from flopping around as you install the new one. You'll need a proper fitting screwdriver and a pair of flat faced pliers, preferably of the needle nosed variety.

DO NOT DRY FIRE WITHOUT SNAP CAPS. You will break the firing pin eventually. Take a dozen spent primer, pry out the anvil, tumble them clean and fill them with hot glue. Install them in some empty cases and replace them every 50 snaps or so.

[Harter66]

The 255s are good in the Colts not so much in the S&Ws .

AR brass is nice but the full moon clips sure make 300+ rounds stack nice in a 30 cal can .
Revolver supply makes most of the moon clips . They are priced something like $10/5 ,25/20, 50/50 and 75/100. They come it shiny and matt blue and brushed nickel .

I was running 5.5 unique in all loads .

[Kai]

AR brass on GB.

[Cane_man]

What is the experience with harder cast bullets as opposed to soft? this is supposed to better and prevent leading, I dunno????

[ShooterAZ]

I use 4.2 grains of Bullseye with boolit weights of 200-230 grains, and I also use 45 Auto-Rim brass. The H&G 68 design has been a winner for me using 45 AR brass, it's soft shooting and very accurate. I use WW's or range lead in mine with no issues whatsoever.

[hpbear101]

Haha that's great, was it an easy install?

Can this revolver be dry fired without worry to damage?

It started out to be a PIA to install as one leg of the python spring is shorter, its like you need 3 or 4 hands to make it work. I eventually lashed it in place with some dental floss, got the stirrup hooked to the hammer put the grips on and cut the dental floss and it all stayed together rintinglen's solution of a glob of grease would probably be easier.

[Harter66]

What is the experience with harder cast bullets as opposed to soft? this is supposed to better and prevent leading, I dunno????

I'm told you can shoot just about dead soft . The 50/50 I shoot in 45 Colts and S&W has been fine . Size for the throats and you won't have any leading as long as they line up with the barrel and they are larger than the groove . You're not dealing with a 9mm or 357 you're only running 19-21,000 psi .

[Bigslug]

this is the direction I was thinking about going, how do you think the NOE 454255 would work out (I have this mold)?

45 AR brass can't be found right now, anyone want to part with some send me a pm and see if we can work something out!

Your NOE is a clone of Keith's 454424, and is his .45 caliber take on the "one bullet to rule them all" SWC concept that is exemplified in .44 by the 429421 and in .35 by the 358429. You won't be taking advantage of the longer range capabilities out of a .45ACP case, but who cares?

It's a more broad-use bullet than the 452423 (NOE clone is 453-247-SWC), but the two will be close enough in overall weight that it should present no real problems. In the old blueprints and literature, the 452423 is listed as a 238 grainer, but all I can figure is that was probably when cast out of the much-more-common-back-then linotype, as most of us casting it of softer metals in both "correct" square and "modified" round lube groove get something close to 250 grains.

I like it for the .45 Auto revolvers simply because of it's purity of purpose (smashing stuff at short range), and joke that Elmer must have been a little mad at the world when he designed it, but there are no flies at all on his Peacemaker bullet.

[stubshaft]

Check out Rimz brand plastic moon clips. Easily load and unload acp brass with no special tools or hassle. They have been very durable for me.

+1 on using Rimz clips. I use them for my 45's and my 40 S&W at the range. I do use steel clips when the 40 S&W does CCW duty.

[Cane_man]

Your NOE is a clone of Keith's 454424, and is his .45 caliber take on the "one bullet to rule them all" SWC concept that is exemplified in .44 by the 429421 and in .35 by the 358429. You won't be taking advantage of the longer range capabilities out of a .45ACP case, but who cares?

It's a more broad-use bullet than the 452423 (NOE clone is 453-247-SWC), but the two will be close enough in overall weight that it should present no real problems. In the old blueprints and literature, the 452423 is listed as a 238 grainer, but all I can figure is that was probably when cast out of the much-more-common-back-then linotype, as most of us casting it of softer metals in both "correct" square and "modified" round lube groove get something close to 250 grains.

I like it for the .45 Auto revolvers simply because of it's purity of purpose (smashing stuff at short range), and joke that Elmer must have been a little mad at the world when he designed it, but there are no flies at all on his Peacemaker bullet.

the gun will be a range queen for me, I enjoy historic firearms so I would like to find something I can use that is lighter and load at lower pressure to not over stress the gun...

good to know, thanks for the info.... here are two molds I'm looking at, a little lighter weight, I use powder coat:

Arsenal 254424 in 230gr



Accurate 45-200HT, this could be crimped just below the top drive band, see if it could be made to 0.454

[Bigslug]

Given that the sight on that gun will be calibrated for hardball, my guess is that a 200 grain bullet - or any combo of lighter/faster - will shoot low due to the lack of recoil that will bring the bullet up to line of sight.

Considering that you already have the 255 grain mold, you might consider starting down in .455 Webley territory of 600-700 fps and work your way up until it shoots to the sights. Starting around 3 grains of either Bullseye or Red Dot should put you on the low end of that path.