6.5 Grendel from 300 Blackout ?

[Rockindaddy]

Has anyone had any experience making 6.5 Grendel cases out of .223 or 300 Blackout? Grandson who I have taught to reload ammo ( created a monster) wants to reload everything in sight !!! He bought an AR rifle in 6.5 Grendel but has no ammo. So he leans on Pap to guide him.

[MarkP]

Different parent case it will not work.

[WinchesterM1]

You can use 7.62x39 and that’s all I know if

[MarkP]

Starline makes them and they are available on backorder. I usually get them in about 10 days when I order cases that are on backorder. Others have mentioned similar lead times for backorder items.

[endwrench]

Starline makes them and they are available on backorder. I usually get them in about 10 days when I order cases that are on backorder. Others have mentioned similar lead times for backorder items.

Serious!! I'm an idiot. I've never pursued out of stock brass at Starline. I just "ass-u-me" it takes months to get on the list! Again, I'm an idiot.

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[stubshaft]

You can neck down 7.62X39 brass or fireform 220 Russian brass. You can usually find 7.62X39 once fired for next to nothing in terms of cost.

[Coopaloop86]

Its not terribly hard with 7.62x39, I've done it and I consider myself a novice. The primary concerns are x39 is tapered and uses a large primer, Grendel is not and uses a small primer so you will have slightly less case capacity on the first firing so make sure you load way down, like several grains. I also ran into an issue with sizing, not sure if spring back or my die wasn't adjusted correctly but about half of them had to be sized a second time. Take your time, go slow and measure everything and its very doable. The main thing to remember is that the formed brass is not comparable to factory Grendel brass, you really need to start low and work up your own data using your unique components.

[cwtebay]

Its not terribly hard with 7.62x39, I've done it and I consider myself a novice. The primary concerns are x39 is tapered and uses a large primer, Grendel is not and uses a small primer so you will have slightly less case capacity on the first firing so make sure you load way down, like several grains. I also ran into an issue with sizing, not sure if spring back or my die wasn't adjusted correctly but about half of them had to be sized a second time. Take your time, go slow and measure everything and its very doable. The main thing to remember is that the formed brass is not comparable to factory Grendel brass, you really need to start low and work up your own data using your unique components.

^^^^^ truth here! Internal capacity is different when finished. I fortunately figured it out with a sticky bolt opening.

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[M-Tecs]

ammo and brass here

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.c...oint-5-grendel

https://ammoseek.com/ammo/6.5mm-grendel

https://ammoseek.com/reloading/brass/6.5mm-grendel

tips on forming here https://www.65grendel.com/forum/show...-Grendel-Brass

[Rapier]

I use Win 7.62x39 brass to make my 6.5 Grendel brass as the Win brass is stronger than the Hornady 6.5 Grendel brass. Single pass die form then fire form with full loads. They are accurate both ways, with the 120-123s, with subs I use the 160 Cacarno bullets .267 and 9 gr H-110
This is the 160 Sub, loaded and after 11 phone books and 6" of compacted road bed clay. Once you get the 160 moving, it can be hard to stop...excuse the J bullets guys.

[R-71]

I use Win 7.62x39 brass to make my 6.5 Grendel brass as the Win brass is stronger than the Hornady 6.5 Grendel brass. Single pass die form then fire form with full loads. They are accurate both ways, with the 120-123s, with subs I use the 160 Cacarno bullets .267 and 9 gr H-110
This is the 160 Sub, loaded and after 11 phone books and 6" of compacted road bed clay. Once you get the 160 moving, it can be hard to stop...excuse the J bullets guys.

That's almost a pristine bullet. I haven't tried forming cases yet but may give it a try.

[Hickok]

I seem to have a problem with primer pockets getting loose when I tried to make 6.5 Grendel from Winchester 7.62 x 39 brass.

I shot reduced loads to fireform, and yet the primers seem to slip in much too easily after fire-forming.

Seems like a pressure problem, but my fire-form loads are mild.

[cwtebay]

I use Win 7.62x39 brass to make my 6.5 Grendel brass as the Win brass is stronger than the Hornady 6.5 Grendel brass. Single pass die form then fire form with full loads. They are accurate both ways, with the 120-123s, with subs I use the 160 Cacarno bullets .267 and 9 gr H-110
This is the 160 Sub, loaded and after 11 phone books and 6" of compacted road bed clay. Once you get the 160 moving, it can be hard to stop...excuse the J bullets guys.

That's intriguing - you prefer to use formed brass over proper original. What is the water volume difference?
I can't say I have tried the Winchester yet, most of my efforts were junk brass.
Also, do you shoot those suppressed?

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[Rockindaddy]

Thanks WinchesterM1. I have a bunch of once fired boxer 7.62x39 Appreciate the response.

[bronte454]

Cwtebay : for shooting cast bullets yes where you are not aiming for the high velocity but accuracy in the range under 2000 fps or under 1800-2000 fps is the range where you get the best performance from a cast bullet . Also typically with the this type of load primer pockets usually do not loosen up , leading to longer case life . If you’re wanting Jackt’d speed and performance yes then original 6.5 Grendel brass wins out . The 7.62x 39 brass cases typically are a little thicker so you get less capacity. I can’t get to my loading stuff for awhile so I can’t give you numbers . Best I can splain it tho. I don’t have a suppressor so cannot speak to that . I’ve heard arguments against cast “gas checked” boolits as the gas check could possibly come off while inside the suppressor. Could possibly lead to a baffle strike . Since I don’t have any experience with suppressors I cannot say definitively either way . Not sure anybody could say definitively as with all things reloading there are multiple variables. 1)what’s the lead recipe hardness(difference) between your lead and somebody else’s.2)how were the gas checks installed and how tight a fit are they .3) were these powder coated before or after gas checked.4) weather conditions humidity barometric pressure freezing or Arizona hot and sunny . 4) powder used (different burn speeds) how it kicks the back of the bullet was in straight inline or was it off the edge somehow . I’m sure there’s more variables but thes are just the simple ones . Everyone has a different how too. My wife’s how to (do something) is completely different than mine and aggravating as can be . My how to reload is different from everybody else’s . We all aiming for the same result but we all get there just a little differently and sometimes A LOT different thus the reason you do NOT shoot someone else’s reloads . If it were my suppressor and I knew how tight my gas checks are , yes I would chance shooting through said suppressor. Not gonna shoot anybody else’s check’s boolits down it though . How this helps .

[cwtebay]

Cwtebay : for shooting cast bullets yes where you are not aiming for the high velocity but accuracy in the range under 2000 fps or under 1800-2000 fps is the range where you get the best performance from a cast bullet . Also typically with the this type of load primer pockets usually do not loosen up , leading to longer case life . If you’re wanting Jackt’d speed and performance yes then original 6.5 Grendel brass wins out . The 7.62x 39 brass cases typically are a little thicker so you get less capacity. I can’t get to my loading stuff for awhile so I can’t give you numbers . Best I can splain it tho. I don’t have a suppressor so cannot speak to that . I’ve heard arguments against cast “gas checked” boolits as the gas check could possibly come off while inside the suppressor. Could possibly lead to a baffle strike . Since I don’t have any experience with suppressors I cannot say definitively either way . Not sure anybody could say definitively as with all things reloading there are multiple variables. 1)what’s the lead recipe hardness(difference) between your lead and somebody else’s.2)how were the gas checks installed and how tight a fit are they .3) were these powder coated before or after gas checked.4) weather conditions humidity barometric pressure freezing or Arizona hot and sunny . 4) powder used (different burn speeds) how it kicks the back of the bullet was in straight inline or was it off the edge somehow . I’m sure there’s more variables but thes are just the simple ones . Everyone has a different how too. My wife’s how to (do something) is completely different than mine and aggravating as can be . My how to reload is different from everybody else’s . We all aiming for the same result but we all get there just a little differently and sometimes A LOT different thus the reason you do NOT shoot someone else’s reloads . If it were my suppressor and I knew how tight my gas checks are , yes I would chance shooting through said suppressor. Not gonna shoot anybody else’s check’s boolits down it though . How this helps .

That definitely helps! I use my 6.5 Grendel pretty exclusively for predators and have a thermal and a suppressor on that bolt gun. My wife's hunting rifle is also the same but in an AR platform - so I enjoy your experience with those bullets!

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[Smk SHoe]

My .02 cents. I use an encore pistol to fire form 6.5grendel brass. Can use extremely mild loads since no need to worry about cycling. Range brass with mixed headstamps are fire formed and used for blasting ammo when recovering the brass may be difficult. Sometimes with loose primer pockets I check to see if a different make of primers helps.
Granddaughter gets trigger time with the encore ringing steel and I get formed brass

[Barry54]

I’ll add when fire forming necked down 7.62x39 in an AR, use a 7.62x39 magazine instead of the Grendel magazine and they feed better. Go back to the Grendel magazine after they are fire formed.